Stick welding chart - numbers make sense?

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I'm still new to stick welding and have been looking around for a chart for quite a while that would recommend what size rod to use at what amps for a certain base metal thickness.  Now obviously there is quite a range there for what is acceptable (for home hobbyist use anyway), so this chart I made has large amp ranges, but maybe it will help other new people.Let me know what you think/what I should change.Btw, "extreme prep" means extensive preheating, fancy joints and techniques etc.
Reply:Check out the MILLER Stick Welding Calculator. Might be helpful. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.php
Reply:I like the slide card style too - very cheap, couple $Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:BD1 and Dave, those are both good resources but don't recommend a rod size for the base metal thickness.  That seems to be the missing link in all of the stuff I've seen.
Reply:For each rod size, weld that thickness of metal or above.Welding less than the rod thickness is much harder - you can do it, but why make it hard on yourself right? For example, 1/8" rods weld 1/8" plate just fine, but dropping down to a 3/32" rod is even easier.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 01-15-2014 at 04:52 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Aint electrodos great ! A buzzbox is like a beaver that never hit a salon ! I'd suppose un-buzzed box would be a better comparison.Just remember. No matter how drunk you get...look for the wet spot .Personally, there are so many variables the numbers are only basic directions.The sounds cumming from The Piece will let you know if you're on the right track.Hey. It's 417 here. I just drove 300 'mater stakes. Gimme a break. K ?Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:I'd say use your chart the first several times you weld. If you have to keep that chart handy your not welding enough to learn or not remembering. Experience is your greatest teacher. Experiment. The only reason you should have a meter on your welder is because it looks cool and maybe to help or explain something to a new guy. Become one with the puddle.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:3/32 and 1/8 will cover almost any basic welding job. Experience is the best teacher. Sometimes it's easier controlling 3/32 in a tight spot and another using 1/8 where you have a little more gap.
Reply:I guess the easiest thing as a new guy to remember is, don't try to weld stuff thinner than the rod and you should be able to weld stuff up to 2x the thickness of the rod (with an experienced welder being able to do as much as 3x the thickness).  Obviously these rules of thumb go out the window when you get into production environments, especially with large 5/32 rods etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by joecool85I guess the easiest thing as a new guy to remember is, don't try to weld stuff thinner than the rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Check out the MILLER Stick Welding Calculator. Might be helpful. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.php
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manAnd, there's an app for that!
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveFixed it for you If you follow the rest of what you wrote, how big of a rod should weld 1" steel?  I don't keep any 1/2" rod handy
Reply:Truthfully, I guess 3/8" could be done with enough preheat - like 2500 deg. F  but I wouldn't do it. 1/16" rods are really just for little stuff - and still a pain in the donkey hole Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Since you want opinions, I'll give you my honest one.  I don't think your chart helps much.  Every brand  of electrodes clearly states the mode to use (AC, DC+ or DC-).  Second, the boxes clearly state the recommended amperage range.  The general rule of thumb I've learned is to start about 10% higher than the middle of the amperage range published on the factory box.   So if the Lincoln 7018AC 1/8" rod states "90-135A," I'll start at around 120A.   The best reference is the factoy's own amperage setting as published  on the box of electrodes you buy, not some random chart.  There is no catch all that I've discovered.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:The Miller weld calculator are great I bought all of them for mig,tig,and stick.Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:How thick of metal a rod can weld is less to do with its size and more to do with amps. Needed amps wil drive what size rod you should use.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelHow thick of metal a rod can weld is less to do with its size and more to do with amps. Needed amps wil drive what size rod you should use.
Reply:Joecool85 - Really you are just confusing mig welding thinking, with door charts and such, with stick welding.Stick welding is more manual and relies more on the situation at hand to dictate amps, travel speed, rod manipulation and such.For example, with one electrode on the same thickness of steel - flat, vertical up, and vertical down may have 3 different amperages and certainly 3 different travel speeds.The best advice I can give is don't weld steel smaller than the electrode diameter.Everytime you dial in for a new position and thickness - write it down.Comfortably starting at 3/16" steel you can switch to 1/8" rods and make one or multiple passes as needed.1/8" steel and below - it gets harder.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by joecool85Alright, so maybe my chart isn't much use then.  But is there a resource that tells you how many amps you need then to weld a certain thickness metal?I'm just thinking something that would answer stuff like this:Assuming 7014 rod on a DC machine, what size rod (amps could be figured "from the box") would you use to weld:1/16"1/8"3/16"1/4"Then what about attaching something 1/8" to a 3/16" base plate?
Reply:Originally Posted by joecool85Also, in all seriousness, how thick could a 1/16 rod weld?  I have a friend that is a great welder but only uses MIG and he  seems to think that with the proper prep and preheating you could weld 3/8" with 1/16" rod on my crappy 50amp ac only welder...I've had luck up to 1/8" and that is it (using 1/16" 7014 and preheating with a propane torch).
Reply:Miller app for android or iphone.  I use it all the time, as I don't stick weld everyday and I often use the app to get a good starting point, then adjust from there.Lincoln Weldanpower AC/DCLincoln LN-25Miller WC-115a Miller Spoolmatic 30aCheck out my youtube TV Channel
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveJoecool85 - Really you are just confusing mig welding thinking, with door charts and such, with stick welding.Stick welding is more manual and relies more on the situation at hand to dictate amps, travel speed, rod manipulation and such.For example, with one electrode on the same thickness of steel - flat, vertical up, and vertical down may have 3 different amperages and certainly 3 different travel speeds.The best advice I can give is don't weld steel smaller than the electrode diameter.Everytime you dial in for a new position and thickness - write it down.Comfortably starting at 3/16" steel you can switch to 1/8" rods and make one or multiple passes as needed.1/8" steel and below - it gets harder.
Reply:Originally Posted by PlowboyMiller app for android or iphone.  I use it all the time, as I don't stick weld everyday and I often use the app to get a good starting point, then adjust from there.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveFixed it for you If you follow the rest of what you wrote, how big of a rod should weld 1" steel?  I don't keep any 1/2" rod handyOriginally Posted by docwelderi do.  it's to the left of my 5/32" plate.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveYou lost me, are you saying you keep 1/2" welding rod on hand?SuperArc - His original question was not only amps for the rods, but more specifically which sizes and amps go for each thickness of metal. That's what complicates the issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcAh, gotchya.  I see your point. Well, that's an easy fix then Dave.   I propose that a new warning label be printed on all of the electrode boxes, from ALL of the manufacturers.  It might just help those with their calculations on future projects :   ***WARNING! Use 1/8" sized electrodes when 5/32" rods would be  "too much" and 3/32" rods "aint enough." *** Would that work?
Reply:They used to make 3/8 rods now 7/32 & 1/4 " max ,the 7024 1/4 will blow away. 035 flux core. Try and catch us on sub arc 900 amps twin LA 75 5/32 tiny twin /860 flux 25 lbs hr.
Reply:Originally Posted by PavinsteelmanThey used to make 3/8 rods now 7/32 & 1/4 " max ,the 7024 1/4 will blow away. 035 flux core. Try and catch us on sub arc 900 amps twin LA 75 5/32 tiny twin /860 flux 25 lbs hr.
Reply:I guess I just need to learn how to "read the weld" to tell if it's too many amps etc and then go from there.I always like to take things complicated and break it down into a more simple thought process, as it turns out, it's not really possible with stick welding.  Thanks anyways guys.