some pics of some of my welds

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as I said I would here are some pics of some of my welds.Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:here are some of my bends from school. yes they do show some inclusions, a couple of the last ones are pretty nice toughLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Only weld coupon #3 might pass. What position were these welded in? What rods? I've still got some of my tests, if you want I will post some pictures to show how it should look.I can't tell from the pictures what you were doing wrong, maybe welding cold + not keeping things even as you progressed through the joint. You can see where some spots had lots underfill/undercut because of deep gaps next to the weld.Last edited by SquirmyPug; 01-02-2014 at 03:09 PM.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugOnly weld coupon #3 might pass. What position were these welded in? What rods?
Reply:Rods used, material thickness, amps, position...?Picts shown at the beginning need a fair amount of work to my eye. 1st pict is the "best" of the bunch, but it's got a lot of issues, especially with consistency. Others look cold in some places and rushed from the V shape to the bead in many spots.Picts are also fairly blurry. That makes it tough to get a clear look at some of the details. If using an auto focus camera, try to throw some extra light on the subject so the camera ups the shutter speed. Also some times you can get a better pict if you can back up farther and use the zoom, or back up and then crop to the area you want afterwards.  If you have a macro function, that can help, but some times if you are too close the camera can have issues with it being too dark or trying to find the focus on shiny objects. In some cases I've found adding something else that's a bit more mat can give the camera something to focus on that's the same distance as the weld, a piece of masking tape, a dull penny what ever..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugOnly weld coupon #3 might pass. What position were these welded in? What rods? I've still got some of my tests, if you want I will post some pictures to show how it should look.I can't tell from the pictures what you were doing wrong, maybe welding cold + not keeping things even as you progressed through the joint. You can see where some spots had lots underfill/undercut because of deep gaps next to the weld.
Reply:just practice, in my opinion you are a little cold and you are moving fast/not even. I don't know if you are moving the electrode, but just use two hands and try just dragging the rod. work on electrode to work distance before moving on. if you can get a good solid looking weld dragging then work up to moving the stick. That is how I started. if you drag right you should be able to feel the stick melting away and telling you to move a head.Esab 253 mig welderHobart 210 mvp w/ C25 gasmiller 225 a/c stick welderO/A torchHF 40 amp plasma cutter
Reply:pics 2 & 4 were done flat I think 7018 cant remember the amps I will do more later this evening, ac and dc 6011,6013,7018 I will post amps and rods with each picLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Originally Posted by weekendwelder70just practice, in my opinion you are a little cold and you are moving fast/not even. I don't know if you are moving the electrode, but just use two hands and try just dragging the rod. work on electrode to work distance before moving on. if you can get a good solid looking weld dragging then work up to moving the stick. That is how I started. if you drag right you should be able to feel the stick melting away and telling you to move a head.
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64pics 2 & 4 were done flat I think 7018 cant remember the amps I will do more later this evening, ac and dc 6011,6013,7018 I will post amps and rods with each pic
Reply:I appreciate every ones input. I will be running ac with 5/32 metal (since I have plenty of stock) tonight.  I will take pics of the machine, rods and beads. I will be starting with 6013 3/32 starting at 40 amps. any suggestions?Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64 I will be starting with 6013 3/32 starting at 40 amps. any suggestions?
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64I appreciate every ones input. I will be running ac with 5/32 metal (since I have plenty of stock) tonight.  I will take pics of the machine, rods and beads. I will be starting with 6013 3/32 starting at 40 amps. any suggestions?
Reply:ok I think my Lincoln settings are 40,60,75,90,115,130 and higher but not sure what they are. so I will start at 90 and go up if neededLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:fu@king yikes!! keep practising and buy a wire brush!!i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Didn't read all the posts and I am not a welder, just a hobby welder.However To me looks like the top of pic one is cold.  I take it you were weaving side to side.  Works, just looks cold and maybe fast.  The weld should melt into the metal, that looks piled on top if that makes sense.The third pic all look cold and fast.  See how they get thin, and each wave is so far apart?  How the beads get thin/wide/thin/wide.Your slowing down wide part, speeding up to fast thin part.Having said I that I learned the same way you are now.  It takes practice.Even if it get's frustrating keep working at it you will get it.  Just need to learn how to keep the same pace and set the machine.
Reply:Try 90 amps, if that is too hot then try 75. With amperage adjustment like that you will have a harder time. Crank up the AEAD and weld with it.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64these were 3g 7018 3/32 at about 90 amps. the first pic was 3g 3/32 at 90amps with a 7018 1/8 cover at about 105 amps. yes I need lots of practice and the bumper will be probably used for a pattern later on using thicker material
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64ok I think my Lincoln settings are 40,60,75,90,115,130 and higher but not sure what they are. so I will start at 90 and go up if needed
Reply:DSW, did you check penetration with the long arced 7018 at 100 amps? It is something I have thought about before, but have never tested. My thought is that because a long arc causes the voltage to go up the toes of the weld tie in better but might not dig into the root well. Wish I could explain it better..Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:OK, this is information you'll need after you run 2 or 3 50-pound boxes of rod.Once you cut your coupons, take a 36-grit sanding disc to them, then take an 80-grit disc. Make sure the sanding lines are going length ways with the coupons. Take a mil file and put a small bevel on all edges.  You need all the help you can get, if you get to place the coupons in the bender, with no one around, coat the coupons with soapstone before you place them in the bender!Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:No I didn't, but if I remember I'll have to do one of those at the tech school once classes start up again middle of the month and cut it. ( there are a ton of these little "tests" I want to do, but either get busy in class and forget, or there aren't any free booths available to "play" in. ) What you are saying makes some sense, but I've never really thought about that..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugDSW, did you check penetration with the long arced 7018 at 100 amps? It is something I have thought about before, but have never tested. My thought is that because a long arc causes the voltage to go up the toes of the weld tie in better but might not dig into the root well. Wish I could explain it better..
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPOK, this is information you'll need after you run 2 or 3 50-pound boxes of rod.Once you cut your coupons, take a 36-grit sanding disc to them, then take an 80-grit disc. Make sure the sanding lines are going length ways with the coupons. Take a mil file and put a small bevel on all edges.  You need all the help you can get, if you get to place the coupons in the bender, with no one around, coat the coupons with soapstone before you place them in the bender!
Reply:ok tried these before reading the replies. but total failure on ac. at 90 amps I couldn't keep up with the rod consumption and at 75 could barely get an arcLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)Originally Posted by M J DWhats the purpose of the soapstone ?
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPMakes the coupons slide better. But don't get caught doing that! Or you'll be kicking rocks out to the parking lot.
Reply:from the looks of all the pics I would guess you have an issue with running cold and fast. turn it up and slow down. master flat position and then move on.  with stick its all about rod angle and consistency.  keep burning rods, it will all click soon.for 3/32 7018 & 6013 I like to run about 90 amps. for 1/8 its about 120.  use a travel angle that pushes back on the puddle so the slag stays out of the weld. a slow drag worked best for me when I was learning them.for 3/32 6010/6011 I like about 70 amps. for 1/8 its about 90.  I like the whip and pause motion. if all else fails just convert the fraction of the rod to a decimal and start with that many amps. for example 1/8 rod = 125 amps.check out welding tips and tricks on you tube. lots of arc shots. chucke2009 has alot of good stuff on stick welding too.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DMakes sense, anything to reduce friction.
Reply:Still looks to me like you are going way too fast. 90 amps on 6013 should be very doable. I think the slag is fooling you. Try and go 1/4 to 1/2 as fast as you did at 90 amps dragging the rod and show me the results..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I guess I will have to spend the rest of the evening prepping metal and fire up the aead tomorrow. is ac always this frustrating? I know I can do a lot better on dc.Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPMakes the coupons slide better. But don't get caught doing that! Or you'll be kicking rocks out to the parking lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64is ac always this frustrating?
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64I guess I will have to spend the rest of the evening prepping metal and fire up the aead tomorrow. is ac always this frustrating? I know I can do a lot better on dc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugCould just weld them correctly
Reply:ok here is 90 amps with a little slower travel 6013 3/32 with 5/32 metal welded the piece to the table at the end and the rod was glowing at half way through rodLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:at the right end of the bottom bead it burnt through and welded the piece to the tableLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Are you able to feel the flux on the rod dragging on the steel?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=fGkkCpKkM7g     check that video out and compare what he is doing to what you are doing
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugAre you able to feel the flux on the rod dragging on the steel?
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64yes at first but the rod burns so fast I can barely keep it on the steel and like I said slowing down made it burn through and at 90 amps at half a rod it was glowing all the way to the stinger. which tells me way to hot. but at 75 cant hardly get an arc.
Reply:yes the aead works much better for me but I don't like to run it late in the evening due to the noise and the neighbors. really I can do better work than these couple threads show just cant seem to get into the groove. the gf says I am trying too hard and need to chill out and quit being so ocd about getting it right and am over pushing it. says I need to just let it flow.Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Yeah something doesn't look right. The long bead doesn't look like it was being done with the rod hot enough to be glowing. My guess is this is something simple that we aren't getting enough info to quickly identify. I'm at a loss tonight to think what it is from the info you are telling us.I'll wait and see how the beads turn out with the AEAD..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:the first wo beads were done with the same rod and the third was done with a second rod and they were both glowing by the end of the bead.Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Stupid question. Are you grounding the work piece directly after removing mil scale, rust, paint or whatever from it? This usually requires the use of the so called GRINDER to clear a spot where to attach the ground clamp.I am not a great welder. Some will say I am not even a decent welder (but fórum standards at least). That's exactly why put the outmost attention to the preparation of the work before I attempt to weld anything. 6013 is a tricky rod. I seems to make the most wormholes of all the rods I have tried (not many though). Getting all the steel shinny helps a lot. Seems to help the puddle wetting on the sides of the joint.Good luck and keep on practicing.Mikel
Reply:Originally Posted by Mikel_24Stupid question. Are you grounding the work piece directly after removing mil scale, rust, paint or whatever from it? This usually requires the use of the so called GRINDER to clear a spot where to attach the ground clamp.I am not a great welder. Some will say I am not even a decent welder (but fórum standards at least). That's exactly why put the outmost attention to the preparation of the work before I attempt to weld anything. 6013 is a tricky rod. I seems to make the most wormholes of all the rods I have tried (not many though). Getting all the steel shinny helps a lot. Seems to help the puddle wetting on the sides of the joint.Good luck and keep on practicing.Mikel
Reply:ok here are some aead beads 3/32 6013 on 5/32 steel. not a whole lot of improvement but some I think. these rods are hard to control being so thin and flimsy. the first ones were on the lower setting im guessing about 65 amps, the lsat one was at the higher setting.  gonna try the 1/8 6011 nextLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:it looks like to me your not watching the puddle and have way too long of an arc
Reply:You need to PM Lanse and ask if you can come over for some lessons. He is just North West of you.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:here are a couple on 5/32 metaland here a couple on 3/8 metalLincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)