How do I cut this 6061 strap?

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I've got an aluminum strap, three actually, that I need to cut to the Sharpie marks you see there.  (shaped like my belt tips).  The cuts are not straight.  But the overall goal is to take those edges from square to a soft smooth point so I can slip through leather belt slots and loops without marring the leather.  Straps are 1/4" thick, widths 1.25, 1.5" and 1.75".Thanks.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Picts?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Oops, my brain ran off...here is one.Last edited by Monica; 12-15-2010 at 10:44 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I'd probably draw a straight line as close to the curved line as possible and cut there 1st with a saw to remove 95% of the material. (I'd cut it with my portaband, but it's a 2 handed saw) Then sand/grind to the lines. Do you have a stationary belt or disk sander?With your physical issues, that might not be the easiest route however. You might find a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade a bit easier to use possibly and have less grinding/sanding work..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I've got my Ridgid recip saw and some bimetal blades (got a hacksaw and blades as well).  I can probably set that strap up in a vice or clamped down and get a decent cut on it that way.  No belt or disk sander.  More than likely I'll put the ol' Dremel to work if there's an appropriate tip I can used.  My concern is al stuffing up blades/stones/discs.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:They make special grinding discs for aluminum, but you don't want to use ordinary grit stones with it.Sanding discs work just fine (as well as carbide burrs if you're doing a whole bunch).Roloc abrasive discs are the easiest way to go.  Its just sandpaper, but it has a convenient quick change mount.They even make tiny flap wheels that fit that system.
Reply:As much as I hate to recomend "cheap" tools, you might look into investing in something like this for heavy work.http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...der-93981.html.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I've debated one of those (not that particular one) for a bit.  Could be time to pick something up.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:You have a Coping saw inna geerage?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Will it work?  I got a Lowes and Home Depot I waste too much money at and I know where they are.  I gotta go pick up some pvc anyway to take care of some bees.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:It'll work - they make metal cutting blades but I imagine a wood blade would cut through the Aloominum.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:In most cases, wood blades work better in Aluminum than steel cutting blades;  they don't load up, and clear the chips better.
Reply:Originally Posted by Monica My concern is al stuffing up blades/stones/discs.
Reply:Guys, no frettin' over the one hand.  Stop tip-toeing on egg shells.  Walk all over them.  I got one hand, its no secret.  Pretend you gotta do the work the same way and give me the idea.I just put that in my sig because I always get "why aren't you doing it this way?..."I've got beeswax.  Would paraffin work too?Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAs much as I hate to recomend "cheap" tools, you might look into investing in something like this for heavy work.http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...der-93981.html
Reply:Originally Posted by MonicaGuys, no frettin' over the one hand.  Stop tip-toeing on egg shells.  Walk all over them.  I got one hand, its no secret.  Pretend you gotta do the work the same way and give me the idea.I just put that in my sig because I always get "why aren't you doing it this way?..."I've got beeswax.  Would paraffin work too?
Reply:Probably the best way for you is with a plasma cutter, cuts straight lines and curves effortlessly in steel, aluminum or any metal.  I am saving up to buy one myself, in addition to the ablilty to cut aluminum it should save some money on O/A when cutting steel.If you don't have one, get your self a Bosch jig saw.  They are available either with the grip on top or the barrel grip type.  Buy whichever feels the most comfortable and controllable to you.  Both saws have the same motor and blade mechanism so choice of grip is up to you.  The blade support roller behind the blade is why blades last longer on this saw cutting metal.  You can get blades to cut wood, steel and aluminum, great tool to have for lots of cutting jobs.  The Bosch blades are good too, although you can buy other brands to fit.Walter makes a product called "aluma cut" IIRC.  It looks like a short tube of grease and has a wax inside.  Just take whatever saw you are using and cut into it to coat the blade.  It will greatly help keep the blade from clogging up with aluminum cuttings.  I don't know if it is any better than regular wax, haven't tried paraffin or beeswax yet.A metal cutting vertical bandsaw would also work although they are very expensive compared to the wood versions."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Assuming you have none of these power tools then use a cut 0 aluminum file. Very course teeth to prevent clogging. Should be able to take the material down nearly as quick as the sander. You could save time by cutting the corners off with a hack saw and then you'd have less material to remove with the file.You might be able to find one of these files at the hardware store. Not sure, so here's a link:http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...t+File&x=0&y=0
Reply:I second forhires suggestion of the file.  I have used those little grinder attachments on a dremel for aluminum shaping and they didnt last long before getting gummed up.  Luckily I have a good selection of files that my grandpa gave me, and they tear through aluminum in no time at all.Another idea, of a tool you may already have laying around is a belt sander.  If you could rig it up in a vice or something with the trigger pulled you could easily shape that.  But if you dont have one already laying around you are probably better off getting one of those sander setups like DSW posted.  Not worth buying a belt sander because a good belt sander costs more than that ****ty chinese sanding station.
Reply:Originally Posted by TEKOk, got it---no more tip toein......didnt know they knew that dance down Tejas way----yes, any wax will help, the beeswax is slipperier when melted and works better....just kinda smear it on the disk and go for it...some people turn on the grinder and cut into the wax, other people put the wax on the material and then cut it...either way works, YMMV...
Reply:I say just a jig saw and then use a belt/disk sander as pictured. I use mine almost everytime im working a a project. Its one tool i would'nt go with out for metal working.Ya gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:Jig saw, scroll saw, stationary belt/disc sander, stationary bench grinder, stationary band saw,  plasma.  Most of those could be carefully used one-handed, with the other hand just sort of barely guiding things a little bit as well.  The plasma could easily be used one-handed.Finish up with the belt sander or a hand file.Use the wax or lube goop if cutting with a blade or the file.  Or for the file you can rub it (the file) with chalk first to fill the teeth with chalk.  Repeat the chalk 'fill' often.  It helps to keep the aluminum from filling the file teeth.  BTDT.  Trying to remove packed aluminum filings from the file teeth is NoFun.AT 1/4 inch thick, I would prefer to cut most of the 'waste' off before going with the abrasives or the file.  Because that is a wee bit o' aluminum to remove if you had to sand or file it all off.  Could be done, but I'd prefer to cut off the majority first and then do the final shaping.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I never noticed you had "one hand" in your profile/resources.   I really like the Delta 1" sander I got. It has a vertical 1" strip with adjustable table  and on the side is a 5" sanding pad with anl adjustable table. Not too spendy.  You can shape things like wood, leather,  bone,  Aluminum etc. easily with that.  I'd just hack your Al off near the line and then sand the rest. Any Texas girl who can shoot a .45 accurately with one hand, best advice?   U say "Yes Ma'am". Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Thanks PapaLincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Originally Posted by MonicaThis might be the way I go.  A little elbow grease but I'm normally using metal files and hacksaws in the garage.  Once I do get the ends down to the shape I need I can switch to sand paper grits to get the finish smoothed out?Originally Posted by TEKIf you put wax on your disc, it will help keep the loominum from sticking...wont stop it completely, it will help---purists say use beeswax, I use anything that I can find(besides, scented candles make the shop smell so much nicer)
Reply:I third or fourth what forhire said. Sometimes power tools aren't the answer.( I can here the boys reading this recoil in fear at the thought of this! ) If you have a jig saw you could cut a slot in a piece of MDF that the blade will go in(slot will help as a blade guild) bolt the jig saw to the under side and clap this between saw horses or off the end of your table. Lets you use it like a band saw when you don't have enough surface to rest the jigsaw base on the piece to be cut. I did this years ago for something and it worked well. Just don't push hard or the cut will be angled. And I think this is another project where one of those mini Porter Cable belt sanders would be handy.( referring to your other post on grinding) One of those units could be clamped in a vise or better still, build a wood or metal fixture to clamp it in. Make it so the fixture can be clamped in a flat position, a horizontal running position and a vertical(rotating down) position, into a vise or what ever you have. A little table against the belt to act as a rest for sanding shapes. Black & Decker make a regular size belt sander that has a small dia. roller on the front that might be good for narrow radius' though the mini P.C. would be easier to free hand, one hand for you.  Just tossing it out there..........200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireAssuming you have none of these power tools then use a cut 0 aluminum file. Very course teeth to prevent clogging. Should be able to take the material down nearly as quick as the sander. You could save time by cutting the corners off with a hack saw and then you'd have less material to remove with the file.You might be able to find one of these files at the hardware store. Not sure, so here's a link:http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...t+File&x=0&y=0
Reply:Farrier's rasp works VERY well for aluminum. Doesn't clog either.
Reply:Thanks fellers.  I'll probably work on these straps this weekend.  I'll let yall know what route I go and how it turned out I was contemplating trying my hand at homebrew anodizing these puppies for the heck of it.  One color for each size instead of writing the size on there with a Sharpie.  I've always wanted to try that.  We'll see though.  That's a project for when I really have time to kill.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Originally Posted by Monica.... trying my hand at
Reply:I use to have to work to make good jokes.  Now they just write themselves and I hand them over  Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:piece of cake to get some color on 'em.  Polish as needed, you'd like to break thru the AL Oxide film with 800 - 1200 grit  if U can. Then CLEAN every bit of oil and grease off,  Alcohol maybe?  Then  Dip in very hot clean water... 2-3 buckets if possible... then into a very hot water bath with food coloring in it, any color U like but dark purple etc work aok.   Bring it out after a minute or two and voila it is a purple strap pattern.   More careful U R the better the results... no fingers, drill ahole and use a wire or  use grips etc.  Inet has good tips too. enjoy,Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:From the net there is more specific and probably better techniques now than I used to use.  Rit dye works for black pretty good.  Just look around and try it, it isn't very hard. ex: here's a pretty good one"I annodize in the acid bath for 120 minutes, keeping the bath at 68-70F with ice cubes in a water jacket (a bigger tub). I always use the liquid Rit, and mix it using half the specified amount of water for a really concentrated solution. I then heat the solution on the stove and submerge the work into the solution when the temperature is about 90F. I then raise the dye bath temp and hold it at 130-140F for 30 minutes. I then raise the temp until it just starts to simmer, then pull the piece and rinse it in a boiling water bath for a few seconds, then steam it in a vegatable steamer for 30 minutes."Serve hotLast edited by PapaLion; 11-13-2010 at 10:00 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Thanks Papa.  I was thinking I'd try that Rit method.  Doesn't h ave to be anything drastic, just enough to try something.  I use to parkerize in my kitchen.  Nothing like having your own home. I can't imagine the yelling I'd get if it were mom's kitchen.I'll have to hustle today to get work  done.  We got an invite to a cousin's 1yr bday party at 3pm this afternoon.  It's a tough call.  Work in the garage or go play Last edited by Monica; 11-13-2010 at 10:06 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I didnt take much time to reply to your lost thread I posted in, when I realized you had done hand.   I have empathy considering a shattered my wrist alittle over a year ago and never had it fixed properly due to no insurance.  Had to keep working in the shop to make a living.  I used my "bad" arm's forearm alot.  I actually kept a velcro strap that a would use to attach my forearm to a grinder, bandsaw, or whatever was reasonable without being dangerous.  With some creativity it worked well enough.  I would think that especially in your case that a decently powered belt sander in the 3"x20" size would be helpful.  Not so aggressive or fast moving that it should get away from you.   From my perspective a little plasma cutter, belt sander, and file would get you a long way.  Also, WD-40, liquid wrench, or most of those sprays will help shed aluminum while using abrasives on them.  But if you want to weld afterwords it makes prep more of a pain.Lots of toys.
Reply:Updating the thread, I finally cut this thing today as I'll need it on a holster in my next order up.Just used a hacksaw to cut the corners off, a file to shape it all up and paper(120 & 320) to smooth it out.  Should work just fine.  If not I'll adjust it.Last edited by Monica; 12-15-2010 at 10:44 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Looks fine, UR going to use these for a pattern to cut leather straps, belt or the like right?Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:This will be the strap I use to form belt loops and tunnels when I wet mold.  I'll grab a pic in the next couple days of it in use on both.  It's most critical for the belt tunnels on holsters where I need to push the strap through sandwiched  layers of wet leather.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Here's the strap used for the belt loopsLast edited by Monica; 12-15-2010 at 10:44 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:This is the more critical use of the strap, wet molding the belt slot tunnels.  As you can see the holster starts out flat and dry.  Once wet, the blue gun goes in, then the strap.  I needed the rigidity of the al strap to bore the appropriate sized slot through the tunnel.  I also needed the nose of the strap to be smooth and shaped to make entry easy and not mar up my leather.  Up until this I used a leather belt mockup.  Over time leather fibers deteriorate through use...bending, stretching, compressing...which makes for a flimsy piece of leather.  That flimsy piece of leather wasn't rigid enough to overcome the friction and get through the tunnels.  The al strap does, and will last compared to making more mockups.  Also the al straps are the same dimensions as my belts for uniform fit of my belts, holsters and belt straps.Edit:  I'll have a photo of the result soon as I get it done drying.Last edited by Monica; 12-15-2010 at 10:44 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Very nice holster work.  Do you make holsters professionally?  I buy from alot of custom holster makers out there Lou Alessi (before he passed, now I buy from his daughter Alexandra), John Ralston of 5shot, Ron Clark, etc...  I would love to see some more of your work.--Rama"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Suggestion.Bare aluminum can and will 'leave marks'.  If you can, try and anodize the aluminum (clear aka plain) and then 'seal' it by boiling in water for a few minutes.  That should cut down on the aluminum rubbing onto the wet (or dry) leather and making grey marks.Get fancy and hard anodize those straps.    (not a bad idea, but more difficult to do for a DIY job, as the chemical and thermal control is a bit more difficult.  Not impossible, just more difficult.)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Actually Moon your suggestion about anodizing them I had planned on doing once I get the other two straps cut and shaped.  Since I've been in a rush to get stuff done before the holidays I can't waste too much work time (like I am now! ).  Until I get these orders unloaded I've got to be disciplined with my time.The marks I was referring to are hard scratches and nicks on the grain which is why I needed to shape the ends.  I'm not too worried about the al burnishing a spot through the slots or tunnels.  Those areas are not visible or will be dyed and burnished when the holster is all said and done.  But I certainly wouldn't leave the strap sitting on a natural piece of leather if it was going to be displayed.  I've goofed around with hardware, moisture and leather to know it'll mark.  And in this realm, I have played around with vinegaroon.  It's interesting but not a method I'd use for my firearm gear,  Maybe more utilitarian items like bags and rolls or covers for motorcycle gear or such.Edit:  Here's one pic.  I gotta go dye now.Last edited by Monica; 12-15-2010 at 10:44 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Vinegaroon.  Interesting, that's a new one to me, but I've been making a similar iron based black pigment for a long time now.  Seal steel wool into water, with a few crushed aspirin tables, and let it sit for a few months.  The iron black that comes out is much more stable than what you get with vinegar, and less acidic.Never tried it for leather, but once dried, it can be used to stain wood projects.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanVinegaroon.  Interesting, that's a new one to me, but I've been making a similar iron based black pigment for a long time now.  Seal steel wool into water, with a few crushed aspirin tables, and let it sit for a few months.  The iron black that comes out is much more stable than what you get with vinegar, and less acidic.Never tried it for leather, but once dried, it can be used to stain wood projects.
Reply:I second the compliment on the good leather work.  I tried my hand at building holsters a few years back, definitely not as easy as it appears.  I know this is a little after the fact, but if you have to do anymore shaping on aluminium you might check out a roto-zip. One of the guys in my shop uses one for scroll work on diamond plate trim. Ill see what bits he is using, but he gets a polished edge with it - and its very easy to run one handed.BTW, with regards to you not being a 'professional'  - neither is Mitch Rossen if you ask him, he says its just a 'sorta' profitable hobby (with as much as he charges there aint no sorta about it). Don't sell yourself short.  Throw up some more pics - I see your in Texas and I can always use another source for good gunleather
Reply:I appreciate the kind words.  I am in Texas.  I would like to keep some level of anonymity on the site here so I can be just a welding newb   I don't mind sharing some of my projects that I use for my leatherwork but I would like to leave it at that.  I would guess that a quick search would reveal the possibilities.  I'm not anyone special but with the information age, between my personal life and professional life, I'm trying not to connect all the dots.  Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I certainly understand that, I just have a habit of diving in head first - regardless of where it is.  Just have to keep reminding myself which forum I'm in lol.
Reply:Wow nice work!!Ya gotta spend money to make money!