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First let me apologize and say Im lazy, lol and have a POS cheap cell phone that I go online with so doing a search on this phone is almost impossible and way time consuming. Im sure my question has been covered ALOT.Im looking to buy a SMAW welder in thw future and when I do I want to load up on tons and ton of electrodes. I am not rich by any means, Im not a pro welder or anything either so I dont do this for a living. I do thiss for a hobby, for freinds and sometimes for a profit. My question is what is the best all around stick electrode and what size. (diameter). I know most people would say depends on application so I would ask this instead. If u had access to one electrode and one electrode only for pretty much anything for steel what would it be and why? I have some 7024 I believe it is from a family who was a welder who passed away already.The specs im looking for is strong, multipass and all position and runs on ac or dc. Ill use DC 95% of the time unless arc blow becomes a prob. Im thinking 7018. let me know if that would be a good choice. Id get some nickel rod too but not alot since its expensive. Reason is 99% of people here use wood stoves, I live on the Rez and they tend to develope cracks even though I have successfully been able to weld it with FCAW with my HH140 even though its crazy pain in the arse.HH140---------------------------https://www.facebook.com/brandon.pike.9
Reply:3/32 6011Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:If it has to be AC/DC and only one type of electrode then 6011. It handles a little more contamination than other electrodes, and its easy to fill gaps with. If I had to buy only one electrode for the rest of my life it would be 7018. I don't mind cleaning up the steel to get a good weld. Size depends on the steel.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:3/32. If you can't weld it with 3/32 hire a welder.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:you got a couple choices in the 3/32" or 1/8" dia range in ac/dc~ 6011 and 6013. for dc only use 6010. forget 7024 it's a high deposition production rod and not all position although it does run on both ac and dc. it takes a lot of amps to run this rod.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Everyone will give you a different answer to this question depending on what they like or dislike.7018 is a good rod and often called out for code work. However it can have issues if it's stored improperly and absorbs a bunch of moisture from the air or gets wet. Also not all 7018 is created equal and not all AC machines run all 7018 rods well.7014 is a good alternative to 7018. Almost as strong but not quite as ductile. It doesn't have the moisture issues 7018 does because it's not a low hydrogen rod. ( no big deal for mild steel). It's the all position equivalent of 7024. ( the 1 in 7014 means all position, the 2 in 7024 means flat/horizontal fillet only) 6013 another good alternative to 7018, but it's a lower penetration rod and isn't as strong as 7014/18. Some guys have issues with 6013 and slag inclusions however.Any of the above rods can be dragged and make nice beads and can be run on AC or DC ( with some exceptions as noted on 7018)6011 runs a bit different. It's a high penetrating fast fill freeze rod. It can be aggressive and is good for dirty material with paint and rust. Beads don't look as nice as the beads made with 7018/7014/6013. Some people have trouble running these rods because they run a bit different than the others do. Bead strength is lower than the others.If I could have just one rod for any machine, it would be 7014. 7018 would be my 2nd choice only because it doesn't run well on some AC machines and due to long term storage issues. For critical work however 7018 would be my #1 choice every time and I'd just buy new rods to deal with the storage issues.Size of the rods... 3/32" will do anything from 14 ga to 1/4" no problem. Much bigger than 1/4" and I'd want a bigger rod like 1/8" to fill with and be able to run more amps. As mentioned rule of thumb is not to try and weld material thicker than rod diameter. 1/8" rods run 1/8" and up. I mostly use 1/8" for stuff I stick weld since the majority of the time if I grab stick it's all 1/4" or better and I mig thinner stuff. I do keep a few pounds of 3/32" 7014 on hand though for those occasions when I need a smaller rod..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:7014 1/16 3/32 1/8
Reply:1/8 7018 use for any thing power supply AC/DC does not matter if you can have 2 rods 6010 or 6011 you do not need anything else !!! All the rest on a as needed basis . I like 7014 and 7028 for ease of welding use up to 1/4 inch .
Reply:Whatever rod(s) you settle on, keep them clean and dry!Don't buy more than a pound or two at a time. You'll be throwing 3-year old rods in the scrap metal pile because they "just don't work" the way the did last summer.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:While I will occassionaly use other rods the brunt of my general purpose work gets done with 6010/6011 and 7018. I keep mainly 3/32 and 1/8 in each on hand.Hobart Stickmate LX235AC/160DCRanger 305GVictor 315 O/A rigHope to acquire in the next couple of years: Hypertherm PM45 and Dynasty 200DX
Reply:I agree with the 6011 and 7018 in whatever size your machine will handle amp wise. 6011 for ac-dc for burning the crude off a fast fix job and the 7018 for the jobs you can spend the time cleaning. for longer storage on the 7018 i used to use a seal tight ammo box with some air in it that i changed periodically. i use a rod oven now so it costs more to store for longer periods but no changing the air dry.225NT bobcatAEAD200LEScott 125mm175, mm252 w 30A, PT225mm211, TA 181iHyper Therm 380, cut master 529100X & XX, Digital Elite6 Victor setssmith little torch, meco midget kalamazoo band sawsteel max saw evoulution circular saw
Reply:For me, I could probably get away with just the following without too much issue. Probably covers 99% of what I do. 3/32 70183/32 6011 1/8 6011
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW As mentioned rule of thumb is not to try and weld material thicker than rod diameter.
Reply:Originally Posted by Marty Feldmanthinner?I agree with all of DSW's recommendations. As to a "best" rod, if I had to pick one, it's 7014. 7018 is great as long as you have a way to ensure dryness. This may be less of a problem in your area of the country than elsewhere, but I'm not sure about that.
Reply:DC my rod would be 6010, you can burn it in any kind of rusted metal or even through galvanized coatings. if you have clean stuff then 7018. That's all you'll need unless the stoves are cast iron.
Reply:+1 for 7014. It is so easy to run, a little better penetration than 6013, and no problems with moisture.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:The moisture issue people think they have to worry about with 7018 is way over blown. No body here is doing code work in their home shops. When doing code work (pipe or structural steel) 7018 must come out of a rod oven. For doing home and hobby welding, 95% of the people here would never know the difference. You can store 7018 in a sealed plastic storage tube and keep it dry. I use 2 rods for all my mild steel work. 6010 and 7018. 80% of that is 7018. It runs much better out of position than 7014 and the weld is far superior due to the low hydrogen properties.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:@ Br@ndoM@n - concur with snoeproe. Lincoln 7018 Excalibur with or without a rod oven. Don't sweat it. Next up, Lincoln Fleetweld 6010 5P+. Plate and pipe. All bases covered for the general welder/fabricator. Have ran lots of 7018s on DC+ and AC with excellent results. My consults to you is to not buy tons & tons of electrodes right off the bat. Give it time. See what works for you and machine first. You'll naturally settle to a few variants that work best "overall" for your applications."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Cool thanks for all the replies. I have some plastic rod storage boxs that the 7024 is in and can use those for storage. Have probably 10-15lbs of that rod in those containers sitting in shed. Dont really know how old the rod is either, barely looked at it. Some of the rods have the flux breaking off, Im sure thatts from it being thrown around but the containers are good.HH140---------------------------https://www.facebook.com/brandon.pike.9
Reply:6011, 7018. I'd go 6011 because it's usually cheaper and you can run it on AC if you need to. Also with 7018 there is two versions one is 7018 the other is 7018AC. Regular 7018 runs best on DC. 7018AC was made to make it run better on AC, but the 7018AC runs just fine on DC also. I did have a problem with 7018AC and moisture. I had about half a 5 lb box I had to chuck. I was living in the desert. Very low humidity. Never had a problem with them then it rained for two weeks every day. I tried to run some to fix a minor crack on a trailer accessory. No way the beads where full of pinholes and it was very hard to keep it lit. I chucked them. I bought a 50lb sealed box of Lincolin 7018. I went home opened it and separated the rods into piles of 5. I then used my wife's freezer sealer thing to store them. I forget what you call them. But you know the things you put meat in and it sucks the air out and seals it. Never had a problem since. We have moved back to SC where the humidity is high. I just open up what I need.
Reply:Just get rid of the old rods. Chances are they will run like crap and you may have a difficult problem with them. This will ultimately discourage you.
Reply:A lot of structural steel is welded every day with 7018 that has never seen an oven, much less the snow , cold and rain that seems to always pop up .Miller xmt304, Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:^ ^ ~ ~ * * this * * ~ ~ ^ ^"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Yeah thanks u all for all the input.HH140---------------------------https://www.facebook.com/brandon.pike.9
Reply:Best all around rod for me if I could only choose "one:" 6010 (or 6011). It runs in any position, penetrates the best, fills gaps better than any other rod and is the only rod that cuts through dirty, rusted, painted metal easier than any other electrode. Second choice is 7014. Running vertical downhill with that electrode looks like a machine welded it at times. Really "stupid-easy" and smooth to run for me. I could NEVER have only "one" rod on hand. That is a hypothetical question that could never come to fruition.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller 625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita Baileigh NRA Life MemberThese guys all have excellent suggestions. But most are professionals so have an advantage there.As a farmer and welding hack, everything I weld/repair is with 6011 and 7018. 1/8" is the preferred size for heavier beams and such. The only exception is hardfacing. 7014 is an alternative to 7018 but I have a 5 lb box that hasn't been opened for 10 years. A box of 7018AC was purchased by mistake one time but it ran quite well on DC.3/32" is probably the best universal size if pressed on the issue but even then, 6011 and 7018 run so differently and have such different applications that you really should have both on hand.
Reply:IMO to be considered as a good "general purpose rod" it must be able to be used on ac. I use 6011 at work a lot because the equipment I work on is unweldable on dc due to arc blow. I consider the 6011 to be the best "general purpose welding rod". For "general" welding around the shop and if I want "beauty" or if it's going to be for someone who thinks a good 6011 bead is a bad weld due to appearance, I also like 7014 much better than 7018ac. There is no comparison IMO really, they are so close "strength" that I don't consider using 7018ac around the shop unless I'm forced to. I don't have and would not run a oven all the time and nothing pisses me off more than getting some porosity in an otherwise beautiful bead. For critical work such as a gantry I getting ready to build that I can use dc on nothing beats fresh Atom Arc or Excalibur 7018's for strength, ductility, appearance etc... though.Last edited by kald; 02-06-2014 at 11:55 AM.Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:If I had to have only one electrode, this would be it."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:You would an Idealarc 2500/2500 to run it. Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:Around here in the Mining Industry, 7018's are the most used. McKay Rods are pretty much the standard. Sizes are mainly 1/8" & 5/32"
Reply:Originally Posted by kaldYou would an Idealarc 2500/2500 to run it.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumIf I had to have only one electrode, this would be it.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumIf I had to have only one electrode, this would be it.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopWhat size rod is it? How many amps does it take to burn them, is it 7018?
Reply:BD1, Is that really?
Reply:Ya gotta burn ona these to enable you to strike an arc with that.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:I'm with ya Burpee! Light that sucker up, breath deep and strike that arc!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopWhat size rod is it? How many amps does it take to burn them, is it 7018?
Reply:Burpee, definitely a cellulosic stick.That big electrode is 3/4" Cor-Met F-25. Says 1500 Amps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Welding-...-/180323895255A couple "big welds" threads:http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...91-Big-Welds-2http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ig-Welds/page2"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:lots of shovel work, just thought I would share....box of 10 year old 6013 5/32 easy arcDCEN 118 voltCharl
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumBurpee, definitely a cellulosic stick.That big electrode is 3/4" Cor-Met F-25. Says 1500 Amps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Welding-...-/180323895255A couple "big welds" threads:http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...91-Big-Welds-2http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ig-Welds/page2
Reply:You all are on crack for having 6010/11 as your only rod, except for Burp's gal who is higher than a hippy anyways.7018's not a bad choice, but I think for BrandoMan's situation 309L would be better.-all position vs 7018 which you can't downhill with.-as strong as 7018 (70'ish ksi yield / 80-90'ish ksi tensile)- runs on ac or dc+-works great for cast and dissimilar metals.-drop dead gorgeous beads.Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tYou all are on crack for having 6010/11 as your only rod, except for Burp's gal who is higher than a hippy anyways.7018's not a bad choice, but I think for BrandoMan's situation 309L would be better.-all position vs 7018 which you can't downhill with.-as strong as 7018 (70'ish ksi yield / 80-90'ish ksi tensile)- runs on ac or dc+-works great for cast and dissimilar metals.-drop dead gorgeous beads.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveTerrible advice for just having one rod. Expensive and harder to run than regular, common, easy to find rods.Just my opinion.
Reply:Why do you hate filthy dirty little thangz Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tDave, buddy, I'm not sure we're talking about the same rod.Expensive, yes. But "harder" to run? I think 309L is one of the easiest. But remember "harder" is subjective and something is only "hard" until you learn it.I listed 309l due to what I read as BrandoMan wanting to get into stove repair. You're right, it wouldn't be MY choice for an "only" rod, but I don't plan on doing much with cast. 7018 would suite MY needs the best, except that I bought 100# of 12018. So for a while, 12018 is MY choice for rod I know you've got experience with this rod, but if BrandoMan would want to try some, I'd send him a couple sticks.I still stand by my comments on 6010/11. They're just plain, dirty, filthy little things
Reply:Burpee, nice piece of work there. Smooth, convex profile. No apparent cracks or pitting. (No opinion on the weld, though.)"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:34:56