Hobart g213 welder

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I am older than this welder and I still work!!  Hope to get this old one back working after pulling from brush pile, Need to find a manual and parts list for it . it has a flat   brass( looks like) coil that has broken in 2 parts I do not know if this is a open air transformer or maybe some type of choke. Any help will be appreciated
Reply:I had good luck getting the manual from over at Hobart forum.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I found the manual do you have a email I can send it to?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Johndough05I found the manual do you have a email I can send it to?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Want to thank you for the manual, got it  now need to find coil  AAW3944  thanks again
Reply:You can find the Wisconsin engine manual online also I don’t have that in email form though.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:lazy733,I have the engine manual if you need it. PM me if so.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I just picked up a G-213 circa 1954 with the TJD-2 engine. Serial number AAW-72876. It appears to use the EEA100 starter. It turns over slow on 6V and about right on 12V. Looking at the parts breakdown the motor is a YA61. Can anyone confirm 12V is correct? It's using coil ignition so I'd assume 12V.I found these engine parts manuals online if anyone needs them.http://www.pittauto.com/customer/pia...ter_motors.pdfhttp://www.pittauto.com/customer/pia...d_final_v1.pdfWhere is the best place to buy parts? I don't presently have any spark so I may need to source a few parts. Does anyone have the Wisconsin service/rebuild manual? mla2ofus I sent you a PM about your manuals.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitWill you please turn your repair into another one of your traffic and interesting repair threads?  Haven't seen one in awhile now.  forhire, what was the Aussies name that helped you make the sign for the forge. Man I miss him, he had a lot of good information to share, I wish he would come back.  If you would PM me his email I would ask him to.
Reply:I confirmed it's a 12V system... it was right in front of me on the regulators. I replaced the missing starter button and battery cables.I cleaned the sediment bowl with acetone. The varnish from the old gas was really stuck on. I also bead blasted the clamp parts and re-plated them with zinc. The finish isn't great but it was heavily pitted.When I removed the top cover to drain the fuel tank this giant house spider was waiting to attack me.  The tank was surprisingly clean.
Reply:The distributor was heavily rusted. My heart sank when I realized it completely frozen. I feared the bottom end would be completely destroyed.Fortunately this doesn't appear to be the original distributor and as luck would have it the pinion wasn't engaged on the worm. It clearly wasn't fully installed. I am so lucky!So I proceeded to clean it up. I stripped everything down. Bead blasted what needed to be cleaned.I then re-plated all the parts with zinc. I didn't really get any pictures of the plating process.After re-assembling the distributor, and installing fresh points, I now have very strong/healthy spark. Tomorrow I'll set the timing. Napa didn't have the cap, rotor, or condenser in stock but I have spark so I can continue while waiting for the parts to arrive. I suspect the carburetor will need some attention. Any recommendations on degumming the carburetor without tearing it down?
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireAny recommendations on degumming the carburetor without tearing it down?
Reply:Originally Posted by John TCome on now... You were doing so good with this project don’t screw it up now.  Take it apart and clean it. But if you want to Try firing it with the carburetor as-is, i’ve had moderate success with spraying Seafoam spray or deep creep before and after it fires.
Reply:Not sure of the model, but looked at one yesterday. Not really sure if the guy wants to sell it. or if the price is right? It was the guy's dads unit, and has value to him there.. Anyway It's a twin, and mag/crank style twin ..Told me not to wrap your thumb around the handle when turning it over.. Both pistons rise, and fall togetherEsab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XNot sure of the model, but looked at one yesterday. Not really sure if the guy wants to sell it. or if the price is right? It was the guy's dads unit, and has value to him there.. Anyway It's a twin, and mag/crank style twin ..Told me not to wrap your thumb around the handle when turning it over.. Both pistons rise, and fall together
Reply:Originally Posted by jim cafarelliScott sounds like a Norton Commando
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XNot sure of the model, but looked at one yesterday. Not really sure if the guy wants to sell it. or if the price is right? It was the guy's dads unit, and has value to him there.. Anyway It's a twin, and mag/crank style twin ..Told me not to wrap your thumb around the handle when turning it over.. Both pistons rise, and fall together
Reply:About time for Hobart to bring out a 270 degree unit...Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:My engine is a TJD and is missing the hand crank. My push button works pretty good.  I need to get a crank and try it once I have it running. I priced them out and I may have to make one. The crank model number is U212, according to the manual. I pulled the carb today. Float is definitely bad. Cracked, rotted, and full of fuel. I need to order a rebuild kit. Napa lists a kit without the float. I may end up ordering something online. I believe it's a Zenith series 68, L-63-BC is stamped on it. It was definitely gunked up. I loosened it up using acetone and then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with some diluted oil-eater. It cleaned up fairly well. I'm quickly remembering why I prefer diesel. Last edited by forhire; 01-27-2021 at 01:57 AM.
Reply:Quick search turned this up... from overseas.Looks close... but I'm not 100 percent certain it's an exact match???https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...wAAOSwUIRfh~MUOoops... posted wrong link at first..This one comes at a higher price and without the floats but says it's for a 63/2003 series... I couldn't find the differences from the 61,62,63's... so I don't know if the floats are the same or not???Last edited by ronsii; 01-27-2021 at 01:48 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiQuick search turned this up... from overseas.Looks close... but I'm not 100 percent certain it's an exact match?This one comes at a higher price and without the floats but says it's for a 63/2003 series... I couldn't find the differences from the 61,62,63's... so I don't know if the floats are the same or not???
Reply:That good price. Make job of rebuilding the carburetor easy. Dave Originally Posted by forhireI found a good picture of the series 68 kit here: https://www.carbkitsource.com/kits/ck0950.htmlI bought this one for for $12.67... all I really need is the float and gasket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183776351256
Reply:Got mine home today, 1945 model year..(from what I heard anyway..) Attached ImagesEsab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:I like it
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiI like itOriginally Posted by Brand XGot mine home today, 1945 model year..(from what I heard anyway..)
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireLooks great! I like the Hobart gold face as opposed to the offputting (miller?) blue face on the later models. If I repaint mine... it will be all Hobart gold.
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusI took one of the gas tank brackets that wasn't weathered to my local hardware store and they computer matched it. Turned out close.
Reply:Kinda looks like the old cat yellow...   Now I really like it
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireThe paint turned out great. Is that a stainless muffler? I like the compressor add-on. Do you have a tank on the trailer?
Reply:I have some pics of the muffler I am going to use.. My Moto Guzzi Breve 1100 has the perfect setup..These will flow all you need, and be super quiet..has a 90 built in too. No cat either..I recognize that pump... I bought one 41 years ago.. 3hp though.. Attached ImagesLast edited by Brand X; 01-30-2021 at 05:16 PM.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:My very cheap rebuild kit arrived today. The float fit perfectly. The gasket appears to line up and the extra bolt hole can be trimmed easily. I'm not sure about doing the full rebuild... I might just throw it together and see how it goes with minimal effort. I did find a good rebuild guide, with a lot of color pictures, over on mytractorforum.com:https://www.mytractorforum.com/attac...7-pdf.2485801/
Reply:Stick it together,, My filter bowl gasket leaks some, and needs some work.. Gas tank needs cleaned out too..  but purrs like a kitten.. Attached ImagesLast edited by Brand X; 02-04-2021 at 09:08 PM.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XGas tank needs cleaned out too..  but purrs like a kitten..
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XStick it together,, My filter bowl gasket leaks some, and needs some work.. Gas tank needs cleaned out too..  but purrs like a kitten..
Reply:Yep, ebay freq meter. also my go-cart inductive tach, and Cylinder Head Temp.. The sensor will not fit around the huge Spark Plug. mag does throw quite an arc.. My tank is not too bad, just going to let it sit with a bit of  Vinegar,and it will be just fine in no time..Jim,the lugs have welding Voltage, but I have to fab up some leads to try out the arc/rpm welding switch..Last edited by Brand X; 02-05-2021 at 12:41 AM.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:I finally had some time to bead blast and replate all the carburetor parts. I didn't bother replating all the screws, I'm not really set up well for blasting and plating super small items. While trying to remove the governor linkage it broke.  I tired tigging a nut to the fragment and back it out, only to snap it off again. So I made a new nut from brass, this should prevent rusting in the future. I then used the geometric die head to thread some 1/8th inch rod for #6-32 thread and bent a hook on one end. It took the zinc plate very well. I may have to bend an offset in it but I'll sort that when I put it on the machine. My Ebay throttle lever arrived. The original no longer locked in the full speed position and I didn't feel like trying to figure out why. Now all I need to do is source a new fuel line and see if it will fire off.
Reply:Good job,I have not got this far on how the high speed welding switch works? It has a auto rpm while welding switch, and I would think the throttle lock would be pushed it to have it to work correctly. Like I said, I have not welded with it yet, as the test drive was just to see if it would run correctly.. It's a lot different then the Miller AEAD 200 I had.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:On mine there is no auto RPM on it. High RPM is for welding, low RPM is for 120v power. If I switch it to power at high RPM I can hear the engine pull down slightly which I'm guessing is not a good thing. I used my HF photo tach to set high RPM and my kilawatt to set frequency for low RPM. I used the small cable clamp to set high RPM and the throttle idle stop screw to set low RPM. Attached ImagesOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I installed the carburetor and had a fuel line made yesterday, 1/8 NPT on the tank end and 7/16 swivel on the pump end. This morning I figured I'd give it a whirl. Still low or no compression. I pumped some oil in the cylinders and gave it a quick compression test to confirm. Needle didn't move. I was pretty sure the exhaust valves were stuck open. I pulled the head, without breaking any bolts, and sure enough, rusted wide open. A bit more oil and a few minutes of whack-a-mole, I was able to get the valves moving. Cylinder one is working consistently but cylinder two is sticking now and again, especially when I stop cranking. I'll check it again in the morning after it has had a good soak. I suspect I may have a broken valve spring. Of course it could just be really sticky. I can wish, can't I?
Reply:Try the acetone/ATF mix... works wonders
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiTry the acetone/ATF mix... works wonders
Reply:The sticking valve cleared up this morning after a good soak overnight. I cleaned everything and reassembled the head. Compression is sorted. I verified the timing and attempted to start the engine with a little starting fluid and it jumped to life. Yeah. But my joy was short lived as I still wasn't getting fuel at the carb. I quickly pulled the fuel pump and clean it up. I now have fuel in the carburetor bowl but it is still acting like it's not getting fuel. It runs on starting fluid but doesn't appear to be sucking in fuel. I'll pull the carb in the morning and do a more thorough cleaning. I must still have something gummed up. I didn't do a full rebuild and maybe I should have.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireThe sticking valve cleared up this morning after a good soak overnight. I cleaned everything and reassembled the head. Compression is sorted. I verified the timing and attempted to start the engine with a little starting fluid and it jumped to life. Yeah. But my joy was short lived as I still wasn't getting fuel at the carb. I quickly pulled the fuel pump and clean it up. I now have fuel in the carburetor bowl but it is still acting like it's not getting fuel. It runs on starting fluid but doesn't appear to be sucking in fuel. I'll pull the carb in the morning and do a more thorough cleaning. I must still have something gummed up. I didn't do a full rebuild and maybe I should have.
Reply:Yes or a ultra sonic cleaner for hard to get places.I am stuck on the tank clean now. My fuel line was shot, but was able to salvage the fittings . couple of pinch style clamps, and good hose will solve that issue.. I really don't know if my fuel pump works for sure.. has a wobble pump arm, and was pushing out the fuel filter when pumped.. I had a gravity feed going on start up. Going out the wrong way..Fuel bowl gasket is shot.. If i can get fuel, I know the carb is decent enough to run.. The mag spark does jump about a mile and a half..Seems like everybody is making a bit of progress, so I think when done, pretty decent old girlsEsab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:I've got mine running. I picked up a fresh can of Berryman's Chem-Dip and gave the carb a good soak. While it was soaking I studied the carb diagram and realized I hadn't cleaned the main jet. Doh! It was so blocked I hadn't seen it on my first cleaning. I removed it and cleaned it real good. I then flushed everything with Berryman's B-12. After re-assembling it fired right off. I still need to set the timing with the light. I'm not sure the charging system is making power, I'm reading the same 12.5V running as I do not running. I guess I'll need to sort the charging system. I'm also not seeing AC power from the generator. I plugged in a shop light in to the 120V... and nothing. I'm only seeing about 5V AC with the meter. I'm not getting a reading on the DC welding lugs. They are fairly corroded. Looking at the manual I suspect I need to check the brushes. It's kinda nasty under the hood, it may take some time to sort the generator. I guess this will give me some time to find the correct paint color.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XI am stuck on the tank clean now.
Reply:I might be into the fuel pump on mine then? Just need to get clean gas, and tank before I move on to it.. I am thinking of putting a real fuel filter on the unit too..I am generally working from the tank forward. just had experience from the Guzzi I got out of Seattle.. No rust with the plastic tank, but the tank did swell from the Ethanol in the fuel..(dried out it goes back to normal size) The fuel filter is half metal, and the other half plastic. and the quick disconnect plastic fitting from the in tank fuel pump snapped off as per usual Guzzi.. That is all fixed, and was able to balance out the throttle bodies, and re-sync the TPS.. with some downloadable free software .The Guzzi fuel injection is quite simple, but if you turn one screw you should not,you are totally screwed so to speak.. Flow benched from the factory,and that sacred  screw has bitten a few people.. No such screws on the Hobart, and everything can be done over.. BTW the Guzzi is about as close to the old school Wisconsin as a newer motorcycle can be.. Let just say, it's tech is closer to it then most motorcycles are..Just missing the crank start..Last edited by Brand X; 02-12-2021 at 08:59 AM.Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:No crank start!!!!!!!    well, I guess that might keep guys from getting too cranky with it no matter how finicky it was
Reply:Originally Posted by ronsiiNo crank start!!!!!!!    well, I guess that might keep guys from getting too cranky with it no matter how finicky it was