My first aluminum tig welds. I have one question even tho i kno i weld Like I should

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Reply:damn tapatalk cut my whole speal off. my question is I noticed allot of arc wander, and also the aluminum seemed to melt big if that makes sense. so I had a good bead going and then all of a sudden, the wet area would spread away and it would become a really wide looking bead. I had the above settings for all the welds. I didn't use the whole 105 amps. anytime the weld looked like it was spreading I would back off some more but then the whole bead would go solid and id have to re engage completely. any tips? please be brutal, the more yu nitpick my flaws the better ill get.
Reply:also. anyone know what that arc force feature is for?
Reply:Preston, you know when you light up, the puddle is yet to form? Then you add pedal/slider/roller pot to increase the amperage to get the wet puddle to begin welding?Well if you're welding on these tiny fixed (low) mass pieces of extrusion then you can reach a point where the entire parent metal piece is very close to heat of fusion/melting so the puddle may get very wide as a small amount of amperage/wattage is sufficient to heat a huge weld puddle, not unlike the addition of power to get the first puddle started.What may be happening is the overall heat is so high that very little weld current is needed and if you don't drop the weld current to adjust, then the puddle gets oversized.A very small downward adjustment is often all that is needed, sometimes continually as you weld on smaller mass weldments. You may not be sensing the finesse needed? It is a question of balance, where very small adjustments make the difference you're looking to control. Perhaps when you backed off you over reacted, try backing off in a slower gradient to see if you're able to keep a more uniform puddle?I'd say practicing smaller more proportional beads on these very small pieces of extrusion would be more helpful to your welding, and it is fact that in fixed piece (small mass) bench welds you light up and essentially lower the heat/wattage/amperage during the entire weld, because of the experience you're describing.Net heat, like preheating a heavier section piece to weld at a lower overall wattage has to be considered in aluminum TIG; especially in small pieces as shown.I don't know anything about the power supply you're listing so I can't remark about that control's arc effect.hope this helps you as you practice?Cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK
Reply:thank you, and I agree with you im sure I don't have the finesse to bring it down the right amount. I wil continue to work on it. if that's all that was rally wrong then that's all ill practice tomorrow until I get a better sense of my pedal and what kind of changes it makes as I back off and give heat as well. second question now, will pulse benefit me in this kind of scenario?
Reply:any help for the extreme arc wander? I sharpen my electrodes on a dedicated grinder while slowly rotating to get a nice point. then I turn the balance to ep and get it to ball. but my arcs seem to be all over the place. ive increased and decreased my freqs aw well no real difference that ive noticed.
Reply:Turn the pulse feature off.....Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:it always is off
Reply:Try doing a pad of beads before you try joining metal togetherSent from my GT-N5110 using TapatalkLone Star Mobile Welding, LLC2006 Ram 3500Lincoln Ranger 250GXTHypertherm 30 AirK2000 CAG ESAB Rebel 215ic Milwaukee mag drillDewalt dry cut sawMilwaukee metal cutting circular sawMilwaukee M18 Fuel Chisholm Lead Reels
Reply:Preston, you probably already know this but I'll mention the idea again since it may help with a pedal control.The pedal or slider is going to give 0-100% of the Max Current Setting. If the power supply is a 200A capacity and you have the power setting maxed out, then the pedal is going to give you 200A @ 100% pressed, but... if the Max Current is set to 75A then the pedal can only deliver 75A @ the same 100% depressed position.In the case where you are learning it may be a good idea to find the max amperage you need to get the initial puddle; lets say 125A for an example. By setting the Max there, all the pedal movements would be proportion to that smaller amount of total range of output.What this means is a 1/16" of pedal down is less amperage change in the lower ranges than the same amount of physical movement in the higher ranges of Max Current Setting.So, if you're a little 'heavy footed' now, while getting more skills and hood time, you may find that lowering the MaxCurrentSetting could help make a coarse pedal movement into less change of amperage while you're tuning up?Inverter TIG power supplies don't need (absolutely need like transformer power supplies do) to have the tungsten balled, most inverter welders use the cone but they flatten the tip into a 'truncated cone' to use higher amperage.  If you have a balled tip on some inverters in some alloys of tungsten the arc may wander.There is a difference between how a balled (spherical) bulb and a domed bulb weld too.  Odd as it seems a bigger electrode end shape results in a narrower bead and a fine sharp tip will result in a wider arc foot print, but its important to realize exactly what was said there- electrode diameter is not taken into account in that limited statement.What tungsten alloy are  you using?  Most inverter welders use alloyed tungsten sharpened and 'tipped', also if the grinder is coarse and leaves 'ribs' along the cone's surface this can cause wander but since you're balling the electrode that doesn't seem likely your cause.I'd try a 2% lathanated/ceriated/thoriated tungsten that was ground to a cone, tipped and then sanded flat along the cone just like the coarse grind but to smooth the surface then weld with that.  I put the tungsten on a small belt sander to refine the surface of ridges left from coarse grinding and notice it helps with arc wander.Arc wander can come from too long an arc as well.  The arc should only be about a couple of electrodes long, maybe up to three or four after than it probably wanders. Many full time TIG welders are in the habit of leaning the head to the left, while the torch is leaned back to the right, if in the right hand, and that allows decent vision while the tungsten is kept close to the weld puddle surface. Sometimes newer welders don't 'crane their necks' and so they tend to keep the torch too high off the metal in order to see better.Also the amount of high frequency will usually help to stabilize the arc foot print on the weld metal.  Depending no the weld, I typically use 125 and up as the AC frequency to help focus and narrow the bead. Remember when talking with transformer welders they are working with 60 cycles only and not familiar with this control's effects.Pulse can be confused with high frequency as happens here once in a while.  In general, the patterned welding power surge or 'pulsed TIG' provides one amperage for some time and then a reduction to a lower welding power for another time. This may help you add less NET heat to the weld pieces because the overall gain of pulsed (square wave, automatically timed, weld current adjustments) welding is to reduce the NET amperage by allowing a higher high and lower low ; this averages to less NET heat or power added to the parent metal to get the same weld.Most people find it best to learn in stages; learn puddle uniformity and arc control #1. Next get some different widths in up, down, flat and overhead positions. #3 begin to experiment with the various arc controls, like balance, pulse, or different frequencies to add their effects to the puddle. But the last few items can be pretty confusing if the first few aren't well in hand.  Most people practice in the 'basic' mode then add more features as they have the skills and knowledge to use those more advanced features.Cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK
Reply:Arc force is used while stick welding to help prevent the electrode from sticking to your work piece while you keep a tight arc.If you are using the pedal that came with your machine, their pedals aren't really that linear and the position your foot is in while welding is awkward. Unless recent improvements to their pedals have been made.  If its feasible, you should get a pedal from ssc controls.  Their pedals are awesome and the control of your heat will drastically improve, you won't regret that purchase.
Reply:Originally Posted by Kevin MorinPreston, you probably already know this but I'll mention the idea again since it may help with a pedal control.The pedal or slider is going to give 0-100% of the Max Current Setting. If the power supply is a 200A capacity and you have the power setting maxed out, then the pedal is going to give you 200A @ 100% pressed, but... if the Max Current is set to 75A then the pedal can only deliver 75A @ the same 100% depressed position.In the case where you are learning it may be a good idea to find the max amperage you need to get the initial puddle; lets say 125A for an example. By setting the Max there, all the pedal movements would be proportion to that smaller amount of total range of output.What this means is a 1/16" of pedal down is less amperage change in the lower ranges than the same amount of physical movement in the higher ranges of Max Current Setting.So, if you're a little 'heavy footed' now, while getting more skills and hood time, you may find that lowering the MaxCurrentSetting could help make a coarse pedal movement into less change of amperage while you're tuning up?.Cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK
Reply:Where is Dave. He'll fix you.
Reply:Originally Posted by John TTo hijack for a moment....What max setting would you suggest when welding 1/8 alum  ?   ( syncro 300 with  3/32  4043 filler rod.)I'm mainly stacking beads for now....    ( If my ground cable shows up today) thanks.
Reply:Start with cleaning your aluminum. I don't see any marks from a stainless steel wire brush on any of your pictures.Lincoln Precision Tig 185Lincoln Power Mig 256Hypertherm PM 45Everlast 140STSmith O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BDave told me I want a puddle in 5 seconds or less.
Reply:Is that 1/4"? More heat, Longer taper on 1/8" tungsten. Is it balled? Short arc. Order a TIG Finger from Jody Collier, I burned a hole in mine the other day, proof I needed one, three would be better. You can prop to steady yourself, holding a tight arc. Frequency at least 200 narrows the arc cone. It's like a flashlight beam, the farther away the wider. Heat the leading edge of the puddle, pull back enough to get rod in, dab, advance the arc. Keep the heat where it's needed not where it once was needed. Don't live in the past. I can't read your balance, or how your machine is calibrated, you want about 30% EPLast edited by Willie B; 02-08-2014 at 08:20 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by John TTo hijack for a moment....What max setting would you suggest when welding 1/8 alum  ?   ( syncro 300 with  3/32  4043 filler rod.)
Reply:What Kevin and DSW said, watch your time on arc. For these small of pieces it is probably more critical than amperage. Instead of worrying too much about continually tapering off on the pedal as things heat up just move faster. I'm not a very good tigger but what works for me is to keep the amps high like you need for aluminum so you can get a fast start on the puddle, then quickly back off to a level where your filler is flowing and fusing about right then use your travel speed to keep everything in line. I usually don't even bother dipping on something this size and gauge but rather just lay my filler in the joint and then run the torch down it with increasing speed as things heat up. For a piece this small you should be from one end to the other in less than 2 seconds, much longer than this and you have the problem Kevin mentions with the whole mass approaching melt temp.Brush that shiney stuff off first also!
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BIs that 1/4"? More heat, Longer taper on 1/8" tungsten. Is it balled? Short arc. Order a TIG Finger from Jody Collier, I burned a hole in mine the other day, proof I needed one, three would be better. You can prop to steady yourself, holding a tight arc. Frequency at least 200 narrows the arc cone. It's like a flashlight beam, the farther away the wider. Heat the leading edge of the puddle, pull back enough to get rod in, dab, advance the arc. Keep the heat where it's needed not where it once was needed. Don't live in the past. I can't read your balance, or how your machine is calibrated, you want about 30% EP
Reply:The thickness is 1/8 and its an everlast foot pedal.  I am using 3/32 2 percent lanthanated. And my tig finger is in the mail. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:My balance was set to 50 percent. Oh and i cleaned those pieces with some blue scotch brite pads. Wiped them and my filler with acetone.. I will be doing hours more practice today and i will be just running beads on a flat plate. Then doing more joints. Thanks guys for all the education. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:50% balance will wander a bit more than a lower setting, and the first 1/4 of the pedal travel will just wander, you need to establish an arc, then back off, wait for a mirror puddle, then start add pedal and dabbing. Inside corners were the hardest for me at first, try some other joint types until you get dialed in. 1/8 " is .0125" so 140amps is enough. Try turning the Arc Force all the way off when TIGing, it may be giving you more amps than you thought. Those wee little bits of scrap you're using are getting saturated with heat, that's the moment when you either taper off to 10% on the pedal or watch your puddle double in size and then melt through, If you clamp it to a bigger chunk of alu or copper you can help conduct out some extra heat. When setting up a job I'll let the tungsten ball on it's own, but arcing on a piece of copper, I'll floor the pedal and wait about the length of time required to do the weld +15%. After that I'll pre-ball the tungsten on DCEP to about the same size or 5% bigger. A smaller ball won't clean right until it grows, and a bigger one is less accurate. +1 on doing a flat "pad 'o' beads, burn up a few pounds of filler and you'll be halfway there.Last edited by Brazin; 02-08-2014 at 01:25 PM.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Pretty much what Terry said but I dont see why you need a "Tig Finger" Im curious as to how you hold your torch that your burning your fingers? Also if your doubtful that your pedal has issues set the machine to PANEL and run the same bead.....Understanding that you will have to set your weld current prior to welding because you will have whatever the setting is all the time but will be consistent......   Last edited by B_C; 02-08-2014 at 01:38 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Right Bill. I think he was burning his fingers because of the 50% balance. Only Tig welders made in the 50s and 60s were limited to 50% balance. He should go to at least 70%.And get some 4943. Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.. So when i say 50 i mean on this machine. But am i misunderstanding you guys and also this machine?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:. This how i tend to hold it. I would love to prop with my pinky becuase for me this means the most stable arc. I shake. And i shake alot. Pretty much i know ill never be a professional welder because i shake alot.  I do sometimes hold it in other ways. But that's my most comfortable.Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Btw the switch is there but im using pedalSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:That's how I hold it - I prop anywhere I can and also use a tig finger when it's needed.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Well i had progress pics but the forum administrator has disabled thr feature according to my phoneSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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Reply:Originally Posted by PrestonFabInc. So when i say 50 i mean on this machine. But am i misunderstanding you guys and also this machine?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:70 percent was making my tungsten ball up all the way into my cup.  The closer to 40 percent i have it the more intact my tungsten has been staying...Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Decided to make something with my new found ****ty aluminum welding skills. Its not structural so no one will die lol. Its a phone holder to watch movies on my phone. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by PrestonFabInc70 percent was making my tungsten ball up all the way into my cup.  The closer to 40 percent i have it the more intact my tungsten has been staying...Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by PrestonFabIncany help for the extreme arc wander? I sharpen my electrodes on a dedicated grinder while slowly rotating to get a nice point. then I turn the balance to ep and get it to ball. but my arcs seem to be all over the place. ive increased and decreased my freqs aw well no real difference that ive noticed.
Reply:yup, Shovelon has it backwards, 30-50% is the more penetrating, less cleaning side. The top weld on the top pic is looking pretty good, you didn't incinerate the corner   Using that setting on a bigger piece would definitely give you a cold weld, but the pad is coming along. push a few more rods into the same part there and as the mass grows it will behave a bit different. Just wire brush between passes, and dunk in water to speed things up. when you get the heat right try slowing down, if the puddle is at the right temp you should stab the the rod in there like you're trying to spear a little fish, if you are quick enough and hot enough you will get small ripples instead of the larger blobs you're getting in places. On those little outside corners of the iPhone holder the slightly dirty metal and too much heat are giving you a weld without any ripples. if the metal is cleaner it will flow together sooner = less heat. Just a few more pounds of filler, you'll be pro.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonHi Willie.I have tried a Longevitude tig and killed it. And I have demoed a ThermalArc 186, but not an Everlong. I assume it has the same Euro interface or panel as those. So I don't understand 30% EP. Does that translate to 30% reducuction to a total of 70% strength? From what I remember is that a clearance term or such?I have been experimenting with Amplitude, and am finding that equal amplitude promotes optimal cleaning and wetting, this and increase in overall heat input and soak penetration, and base metal dilution. Reducing EP would counter that. 2% Lanthanated, as well as TriMix tungsten holds up quite well under equal amplitude. However a slight decrease like 5 or 10% slows meltback if desired but overall heat generation in the reverse polarity reduces heat generated in the arc gap. With that said a reduction in EP lowers your overall average of current or heat if you will. So if maxed out at 200 amps, and your EP is reduced to 100, then your average or max is 150. They don't tell you that in the manual. So my suggestion is to stay with max % of both polarities and run that Everlong to max power. The disturbing thing with Euro paneled import style tigs is they may be programmed or solid state, but they don't have default settings to run back to. My suggestion to start for AC, is equal EN-EP, balance of 75%, Htz of 100 to 120. Run that sucker to full current and pound that pedal into oblivion. See what it is capable of. Then taper back.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brazinyup, Shovelon has it backwards, 30-50% is the more penetrating, less cleaning side. The top weld on the top pic is looking pretty good, you didn't incinerate the corner   Using that setting on a bigger piece would definitely give you a cold weld, but the pad is coming along. push a few more rods into the same part there and as the mass grows it will behave a bit different. Just wire brush between passes, and dunk in water to speed things up. when you get the heat right try slowing down, if the puddle is at the right temp you should stab the the rod in there like you're trying to spear a little fish, if you are quick enough and hot enough you will get small ripples instead of the larger blobs you're getting in places. On those little outside corners of the iPhone holder the slightly dirty metal and too much heat are giving you a weld without any ripples. if the metal is cleaner it will flow together sooner = less heat. Just a few more pounds of filler, you'll be pro.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BAre you picking on me? I'm maybe a year ahead of Preston, I'm not real sure of myself, but I grab on to all the information I can get my hands on, sort of an agressive lifelong student. As I understand it, all the you tube videos are suggesting between 60 and 80 % EN or 20 to 40% EP for a compromise between penetration and cleaning action. No one seems to acknowledge there ever were transformer welders such as my Dialarc 250 HF. I found a 1984 book printed by Linde explaining that old 50-50 polarity balanced machines behave more like inverters at 70-30 because the round wave workpiece negative, (electrons fly from workpiece to tungsten), stroke is hampered by the electrically resistive nature of the oxide on the aluminum. I have a Diversion 180 with fixed AC polarity balance of 72% EN, it seems matched to the cleaning action of the Dialarc at 50/50. To what extent the 3500 HZ overruning frequency of the Dialarc influences penetration I don't know. I know it is a better welder than the Diversion with thin AL and the Diversion can't do 1/8".While I've not used a frequency adjustable welder, I understand higher frequency narrows the arc cone, concentrating heat giving less time for the aluminum to move the heat throuought the piece, thereby giving more penetration, and a narrower bead. As does a short arc, concentrated on the leading edge of the puddle.Balance would affect tungsten burnback, bead width, and penetration, as with the moving electrons heat travels the same direction EP heats the tungsten, EN heats the work. For more penetration-more ENAluminum's Ability to conduct heat means that as soon as the rod becomes contiguous with the liquid, it takes on heat rapidly, until enough heat is pulled from the puddle to cool it. Then it needs more heat.
Reply:Ben Franklyn believed electricity was an invisible fluid. The flow of electricity was from a point of surplus to a point of deficit. He refered to the surplus as + the deficit as -. He thought it was flowing the other way. He guessed at first, had a 50% chance of being right, But was wrong. By the time he discovered this it was too late to correct himself. If the greatest genius of his time was confused, what chance do we have?
Reply:Willie - ok Ben guessed wrong, but overall electricity and welding are much less confusing than dealing with people - for me anyway Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Yeah, dogs are a little easier. At my son's wedding reception the first dance was "I wish you loved me like my dog" it was sort of touching seeing him dance with a beautiful Yellow Lab. His bride was the second dance. A man has to get his priorities straight.
Reply:Funny Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by PrestonFabInc70 percent was making my tungsten ball up all the way into my cup.  The closer to 40 percent i have it the more intact my tungsten has been staying...Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Rodger thatSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BAre you picking on me? I'm maybe a year ahead of Preston, I'm not real sure of myself, but I grab on to all the information I can get my hands on, sort of an agressive lifelong student. As I understand it, all the you tube videos are suggesting between 60 and 80 % EN or 20 to 40% EP for a compromise between penetration and cleaning action. No one seems to acknowledge there ever were transformer welders such as my Dialarc 250 HF. I found a 1984 book printed by Linde explaining that old 50-50 polarity balanced machines behave more like inverters at 70-30 because the round wave workpiece negative, (electrons fly from workpiece to tungsten), stroke is hampered by the electrically resistive nature of the oxide on the aluminum. I have a Diversion 180 with fixed AC polarity balance of 72% EN, it seems matched to the cleaning action of the Dialarc at 50/50. To what extent the 3500 HZ overruning frequency of the Dialarc influences penetration I don't know. I know it is a better welder than the Diversion with thin AL and the Diversion can't do 1/8".While I've not used a frequency adjustable welder, I understand higher frequency narrows the arc cone, concentrating heat giving less time for the aluminum to move the heat throuought the piece, thereby giving more penetration, and a narrower bead. As does a short arc, concentrated on the leading edge of the puddle.Balance would affect tungsten burnback, bead width, and penetration, as with the moving electrons heat travels the same direction EP heats the tungsten, EN heats the work. For more penetration-more ENAluminum's Ability to conduct heat means that as soon as the rod becomes contiguous with the liquid, it takes on heat rapidly, until enough heat is pulled from the puddle to cool it. Then it needs more heat.
Reply:Originally Posted by PrestonFabIncRodger thatSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:I appreciate all the help guys. Made good progress today. And I hope to make more tom as well. Will keep you posted for sureSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonNot picking on you at all. You have come a long way.I may be all wet but I think there is a difference between amplitude and balance. Could you straighten me out?