Need Aluminum Help

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I have had some syncrowave 250 troubles that I have posted over at welding tips and tricks forum. Really could not find a good enough answer to my troubles...The machine has been somewhat of a nuisance to getting proper gas coverage and the shiny mirror tungsten tip I once had.I cannot fathom if I am not TIG welding aluminum properly, Or, If this machine really needs something such as a new water-cooled torch assy.I weld mainly at a vocational school.The other day I had some HTP lanthanated 2% 3/32 come in . Arc wander really seemed to not be as problematic with this tungsten.Still, The tungsten split and I am getting green tip and black overall on tungsten. 135 Max amps. Using remote pedalHF Continuous, 5-10 postflow, DIG is set 25-35, BAL 2-5Yes, this metal is a little bit dirty but it was clean where I had welded.I only put the three beads in middle since it was a scrap piece.The beads up close especially the first one is very grainy in appearance.Our torch is pretty beat up with electrical tape around the entire head between the cup and collet adjuster, It is melted on the sides of the plastic body.Condensation builds up quite a bit on the tubing for water feed and return( is this normal?) Also a very minor leak for the water feed/powerPlease feel free to comment
Reply:List all your info. Material thickness, filler and size, gas type and gas flow as well as the above info. MAny times it's something basic that isn't listed in the beginning we spend time chasing that would be obvious if it was just posted up at the beginning.I'm not sure why your tungsten looks like that. I'm guessing there's a piece of info missing that I'm not thinking of today since I've got a massive sinus headache. If you are running green, it should have balled on it's own on AC. If you are running lanthanated, point your tungsten. It will ball on the end, but still keep a reasonable point on AC. Amps seem a bit low possibly. That may explain the graininess of the beads, especially with 4043 filler. If you are welding on 1/8" or thicker alum, your amps are too low. Because of that it's taking too long for the bead to form. In the mean time the piece is sucking up tons of heat and the material is getting way too hot. for 1/8" minimum 150 amps AC, more if your cleaning is down around 2 for more cleaning. We usually have the balance set at 5-6 running 150 of reasonably clean new stock. Down around 2 I'd be up to at least 180-200 to offset the extra cleaning.Personally I prefer to run 180-200 in AC even at 5-6 on 1/8". I get the puddle to form faster and cleaner. However 3/32" Lanthanated is  borderline at those amps. It won't hold the nice point I like at those amps for as long as I'd like. I find 1/8" holds a point much better at those amps. I switch back and forth between the two sizes at the house. I find 3/32" works well for outside corners where I need a bit more finesse and control, and 1/8" works better on fillets and T's where I use more power. School uses old school 1/8" green and balls full size. That's what they want to have students use, so that's what I teach with. Myself, I prefer lanthanated.I've also sen some goofy stuff when the tungsten gets really fouled.  Guys don't grind off all the alum fouling that wicks up the tungsten and it can continue to cause issues even though they "cleaned" it. Typically after I grind all the fouling off the sides or break back to clean tungsten, the issues suddenly go away, well at least until I hand the torch back to the student and they foul it again in 30 seconds... I'd start here if you gas and flow is correct. Grind a nice clean medium point on your tungsten and make sure it's nice an clean to start with..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:What CFH are you running? Are you using pure argon? From the way you describe the torch you may need a new torch. Check all connections and hoses for leaks with soapy water.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Right,100% Argon. We use 15-20cfh. 1/4" aluminum plate As far as the amps, I had a hunch it wasn't enough but this was the first time using the 3/32 lanthanated and I didn't know a good parameter. We normally use 1/8 pure or 2% thoriated tungsten. Also Filler wire-I almost always use 1/8 fillerThank you DSW
Reply:Check the o-ring on the back of the torch head looks like it's sucking air in. I run 250 to 300 on my syncrowave 250 why cause get the puddle started fast Alu loves to suck up heat and and the hotter it gets the crapper it welds I use 5/32 thorium tungsten ( I will have to double check it though) and usually between 25-30cfh of argon depending on where and what I'm doing.
Reply:Way to low on 1/4" alum. so that explains the graininess. For 1/4" you are going to be up close to 250 amps or more in AC. Even if it's not joints but beads to get started, you need more amps. I wouldn't set the machine lower than 200 and I'd probably set the unit on "kill" and see how well the tungstens hold up at the amps I'd run off the pedal, backing down the max as if got a better feel for things.As far as leaks, it's not a bad idea to check for them. I had a student with issues a few weeks back that took me a bit to figure out. Turned out one of the day kids must have dropped a hot plate or some heavy slag on the torch hose and melted a hole in the gas line even though the torches have leather covers. Only thing I could do was send him to another booth since we don't rate keys to the tool locker at night. I'd say at least once a semester we end up with a machine with water leaks because of the day kids. Of course they never tell the instructor so the issue can get fixed...I get a little tired of playing Sherlock Holmes every Tuesday while I try and figure out what creative thing they kids have done this time to F with people. They mess with the settings, don't bother to change the wire or gas when it's out/low, swipe the torch parts and stash them... The list goes on and on..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWWay to low on 1/4" alum. so that explains the graininess. For 1/4" you are going to be up close to 250 amps or more in AC. Even if it's not joints but beads to get started, you need more amps. I wouldn't set the machine lower than 200 and I'd probably set the unit on "kill" and see how well the tungstens hold up at the amps I'd run off the pedal, backing down the max as if got a better feel for things.As far as leaks, it's not a bad idea to check for them. I had a student with issues a few weeks back that took me a bit to figure out. Turned out one of the day kids must have dropped a hot plate or some heavy slag on the torch hose and melted a hole in the gas line even though the torches have leather covers. Only thing I could do was send him to another booth since we don't rate keys to the tool locker at night. I'd say at least once a semester we end up with a machine with water leaks because of the day kids. Of course they never tell the instructor so the issue can get fixed...I get a little tired of playing Sherlock Holmes every Tuesday while I try and figure out what creative thing they kids have done this time to F with people. They mess with the settings, don't bother to change the wire or gas when it's out/low, swipe the torch parts and stash them... The list goes on and on.