D11 Carry Dozer push arm bearing replacement question

admin

Anyone ever replace one of these? In the picture you can see the weld that would need to be cut out (360 degrees) so the push-arm bearing can be removed and a new one welded in. The replacement bearing slides inside the push-arm, and then its welded 360 degrees to keep it from sliding out.  I know the bearing face is hardened, but I'm assuming the part that is welded to the arm is not.  I'm thinking 3/16" 7018 should do it.  All comments/ suggestions welcome. GarLast edited by Gar; 03-28-2014 at 12:16 AM.Lincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:I'm thinking re-weld the face and grind. With a fixture of course so that tolerance is maintained.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessI'm thinking re-weld the face and grind. With a fixture of course so that tolerance is maintained.
Reply:Ahya arc gouge it off and welder up if I could I'd use flux core just to get it done and done
Reply:Your set then. I don't see a problem using 1/8 or 3/16. Your going to need to make more than one pass anyway. What did the bearing block cost? Originally Posted by GarThe replacement bearing has already been ordered and arrives tomorrow.     Gar
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessWhat did the bearing block cost?
Reply:Oh goody.. bull arm trunnion .. are they replacing the ball alsoTack it up nice and straight7018 root it well with 1/8 then fill with the 3/168018 would be better but not criticalLots of stress on those ...the ones on scrapers are worse. But its whe the cap bolts break that it all goes badAlways bends the opposet draft arm all to hell on push / pullsAnd somtimes breaks the both leaving the can in the cutFun times...job securitySent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:I've replaced one on a d6. Used 1/8" 7018 no issues
Reply:While I haven't done that particular fix on a dozer (yet) it doesn't look like there should be any thing to difficult about it.   I'd use carbon arc to tease the old ones off.  If you snuck up on the parting line just right odds are you could leave yourself with a nice square end that shouldn't take to much grinding to prep for the new weld.   .045 dual shield would be my choice for the welding if you could rig some kind of wind break or temporary tent.   Other wise 1/8" 7018 (or 8018).Last thing I did on a dozer (a D7) was replace the guide shoe supports below the rear idler wheel.   It took pretty much all of a 10 hour day to gouge what was left of the old ones off and squirt the new ones on with .045 dual shield.   But I got to work inside off a concrete floor and not out side in the dirt like it appears you're going to be.
Reply:One more thing..... from looking at your pictures and seeing how that arm is supported by just one timber up on end close to where you'll be working well, that looks pretty iffy to me.   I'd seriously consider getting some better, more stable cribbing up under that arm.  And getting it back a couple of feet from where you'll be working so it's not in your road.   There's a pretty good load of stored gravity in that arm as it sits that you don't want to run even the slightest risk of falling victim to.   Work safe.
Reply:One of our mechanics was killed last year while working on a d6. It was cribbed up while he was under it. Guess notGood enough cause something happened and it came down landing across his pelvis. He died a few days later. His pelvis shattered into a thousand pieces sending bone fragments into his organs. Slow down, look it over and work safe
Reply:Originally Posted by GarThe replacement bearing has already been ordered and arrives tomorrow.     Gar
Reply:Not wishful thinking, spot on. The one for the D6 slide into the housing a couple inches, them just weld around it
Reply:Originally Posted by abaralnekNot wishful thinking, spot on. The one for the D6 slide into the housing a couple inches, them just weld around it
Reply:If your welder has at least 300A and an air compressor that has some ***, than you'll be fine to gouge.
Reply:I usually run a 3/8" carbon with at least a minimum of 400 amps.   I guess if all you had to work with was a 300 amp machine you could get some 3/16 or 1/4 carbons and do it.  Now if you really want to make the sparks fly you need a 600 amp Miller Diesel Air Pak and some 1/2" carbons.
Reply:Originally Posted by 4956 One other thing that means to me is that a cutting torch won't be the right tool to try and take the old ones off with.
Reply:Thanks for all the tips and advise.  Turns out the fab shop I weld at did not have enough liability insurance to subcontract me out for this job.  They have 1-million, job required 2-million.GarLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:Originally Posted by 4956Last thing I did on a dozer (a D7) was replace the guide shoe supports below the rear idler wheel.   It took pretty much all of a 10 hour day to gouge what was left of the old ones off and squirt the new ones on with .045 dual shield.   But I got to work inside off a concrete floor and not out side in the dirt like it appears you're going to be.
Reply:Whenever I have to gouge at work i use an old miller srh666 that has a 900A output has a buttery arc for TIG, and is a wonderful SMAW machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by el bob4956, can I ask, how do you get the bulldozer up off the ground to slide the cribbing underneath it?  20Ton gantry?
Reply:Originally Posted by GarThanks for all the tips and advise.  Turns out the fab shop I weld at did not have enough liability insurance to subcontract me out for this job.  They have 1-million, job required 2-million.Gar
Reply:Under carriage overhaul ? on one side usually push them up with the blade and rippers and block it cause they would do both sides at once They better replace those ripper shanks they are looking a little thin above the toothBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:An important safety tip for those of you who have never worked on heavy equipment like this.   Never, ever depend on the hydraulics of a machine to hold something in place while you work on it.   In fact all potential sources of stored energy need to be accounted for and either released (like all hydraulic pressure) or suitably cribbed against to prevent release.
Reply:Looks like someone hasnt been using shin guards on the shanks , gonna be  expensive to replace now.Originally Posted by 4956*&%#$'n  Lawyers and petty bureaucrats .   I think the day might be fast approaching when none of us are going to be able to do any thing unless we sneak off and do it in secret under cover of darkness.
Reply:Originally Posted by GarI hear ya brother, and for the most part I agree.  The money from this job would have been nice ($150/ hour, -emergency job that they wanted done ASAP).  I'll just trust that the Good Lord may have had His hand in this providentially speaking, and keep me chin up.  In the mean time the fab shop is looking into increasing their insurance.Gar