Bandsaw blade

admin

Looking for a new supplier for my bandsaw blades for my farm work shop. Saw takes a  97 5/8  X  1  ( or 1 1/16 )   x  .032   . Blade I have now is 12 or 14 TPI . Cutting is generally 1/8 up to about 1/2 inch material .
Reply:I'd say look into rolls of band saw blades, you cut to length & then weld & anneal the weld... many older band saws have a blade welder integrated to the bandsaw itself.  there are stand alone blade welders & of course you could just tig the blade together too. this will really open up your blade choices & lower the cost of blades too...miller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....
Reply:http://www.countrysaw.com/I have not used Country saw but have heard good thingshttp://myworld.ebay.com/motodude007/I ordered Blades for my little saw from Motodude and a nice set of tweezersEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I use Higgins Die & Mold supply, but they're local to me.  They will ship to you, should you choose to use them.  They supply Starrett blades which are top notch in my book.4051 Mccollom Ct.Louisville, KY 40218-3195(502) 451-4093
Reply:We buy lenox blades for our band saw they have been about the best ones we have come across so far as longievity. We deal with a local saw that makes ours out of a roll. Post up a location and you might have some one local on this siteVantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:if you have a good tig welder enco sells 100 ft rolls
Reply:Having spent more than a few years cussing at HE&M and Marvel saws that required their own room and having done more than my fair share (since nobody else would) of wear/efficiency reports on ever major and minor manufacturer of BS blades out there I can tell you that CONSISTENTLY with saws from HE&M, Marvel, Amada, LePointe, and some others that Lenox blades own square material and hard stock i.e. S, H, I beams, plate in all grades, angle iron etc. Starrett blades own cold roll bar stock and softer metals, they have a more efficient chip break and are less likely to load up wet or dry.  According to reps from both Lenox and Starrett, anytime you are starting a new blade it is best to 'wear it in' as tackit said - Ideally you will use a large (7x blade height) piece of SOLID stock (interrupted cuts are the hardest thing to do on a blade) at 1/3-1/2 normal feed rate with maximum cooling flow.Our usual goal with a blade was 10,000 sq.in. on beams and 15-20,000 on bar. Anything beyond those numbers was watched like a hawk in anticipation of deflection (crooked cuts) or breakage. IIRC the record was 22k on beams BUT that was cutting 14inX650lb beams almost exclusively.  A manual saw is probably not going to get quite that life expectancy but, it doesn't hurt to try.
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocad6I'd say look into rolls of band saw blades, you cut to length & then weld & anneal the weld... many older band saws have a blade welder integrated to the bandsaw itself.  there are stand alone blade welders & of course you could just tig the blade together too. this will really open up your blade choices & lower the cost of blades too...
Reply:with regards to welding blades, most dedicated blade welders work well PROVIDED you know how to use them. I would advise you or you teacher call the saw manufacturer and get an instruction manual. another method of making blades is silver solder, either way you do it its what you do NEXT that makes the process work. YOU must anneal the welded area after welding.  Most blade welders will do this for you by adjusting the clamps further out from the weld area and pulsing or gradually increasing the power.  Heat the blade to a soft cherry red then allow it to cool slowly.  Most blade stock manufacturers will recommend you do this twice.   After you anneal your blade and allow it to cool completely test bend it to 3/4 the tightest radius on your saw i.e. 24 inch drive wheels bend it to an 18 or better. Any signs of cracking or flaking and toss it.
Reply:if it's making the blade glow & even melting it then the blade welder probably works, I'd agree try to get the instructions for it to figure out how to use it, maybe he didn't clean/prep the ends well or did something else wrong....miller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....
Reply:Thanks for all the info .  Will be heading to the local industrial supplier to see what brands of blade they carry. Here is a link to a grizzly brand saw that looks very similar to mine. I picked up the one I have new at a place called Princess Auto on sale for 50 percent off, ( about       $ 750 before taxes )http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-...-Bandsaw/G0614
Reply:thanks guys sorry farmer for making a sub thread in yours it just sparked my memory