Lee's Welding Table

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Good afternoon everyone, Below are my plans for a welding table I designed. Its similar to a poor mans version of a "strong hand" style table where the slats (or in my case I beams) are bolted to the main chassis and can be unbolted and moved down a joint or two to allow for the clamping of over-sized / awkward objects. I designed it with 2" gaps between the beams so I can use rather large clamps. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I start ordering material / cutting.
Reply:I don't know about anyone else but I wouldn't use the I beam. I think the web would get in the way of clamping. My table is 8'x16' with 1/4" plate top mostly made from leftovers. I would build one with 1" top and drill holes for clamping. At least that's what I think I would do.Miller trailblazer301gLincoln sa200Miller251Miller spectrum 625Victor oxy-acc2002 Chevy duramax 3500 dually 4x4
Reply:^ what he said.  I-beams would make the table far less functional than 5/8 thick slats with 5/8 diam holes drilled in them.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Make sure to include the use of 2" receiver tubing for mounting various attachment to your table, without having to permanently mount them. Like these I did for my welding table and other forum members have done before me. It's handy to be able to mount and dismount things as you need them and get them out of the way when you don't. Anything you can bench mount can be done this way, so you may want to use more than one. I have one on each corner of my table and have a plate mounted to set my chopsaw on so the deck of it is level with the tabletop. I have a pipe vise, 3 bench vises(different sizes) and the chop saw plate so far, still deciding if I want to mount the drill press like this or not.Just do a search for 2" receiver hitch tubing for more examples of what you can do with it as it relates to your table build. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackbeardI don't know about anyone else but I wouldn't use the I beam. My table is 8'x16' with 1/4" plate top mostly made from leftovers.
Reply:I think everyone agrees it should be plate instead of I-beam. I can see your point. I built one table with angle. It works ok but the 1/4" flanges are a little flimsy in some cases. My other table is with 3/4" plate and has been great except I need to drill some holes so I can get clamps where I can't reach now.  For more details they're in this thread.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...%29&highlight= Here's a couple of pics from there.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:My guess is, you have a source for used I beam, why you chose I beam for the construction.  I too have a good source of I beam, I have a huge pile sitting in front of my shop right now, from a demolition job, can I find a use for them, yup that's why I have them, would I trust them to be straight and true for a table like you have?  Absolutely not.
Reply:I think that a frame with heavy slats, say 1 inch thick and 12 inches wide would make for a much more rigid table top. Probably cost much more to construct also. Another issue might be that "I" beams flange are not parallel surfaces and would make clamping an issue. "W" beams are much closer to parallel flange. It also would depend on the work you are going to be using the table for and what materials are readily available to you.Mike
Reply:Thank each of you very much for you prompt responses, The reason I through I beam would work best is because of the two additional length wise beams I would like to run in the middle (so I can unbolt and move a beam / slat out 12.5" or 25" for those oversized projects that are always just a little bit too big for your current table (no matter how big you build it!). I figured having all those lengthwise beams would get in the way of my clamps which is why I was leaning towards I beam which would give me in this case a little less that 6" of unobstructed room to get my clamps in under the work surface. Having said that we now have the web of the I beam to deal with. Perhaps the best route for me to go would be to take Bistineau's awesome idea to drill and tap the slats from the bottom, (two bolts per intersecting lengthwise support, like with the I beam) but use long bolts with a spacer between the lengthwise beams and the slats. I don't think 6" is necessary, perhaps 4" (lots of room to get the small end of a camp under there...)  What would you guys suggest, I would like to keep my table the same dimensions as I designed 40" deep 70" wide. Would 6" x 1/2" slats be heavy enough for me? Any suggestions on the bolt diameter one would use for this?Thanks again for all the help and advice.
Reply:You might want to look at the link Irish posted earlier, it has some pics of his table made with 3/4 x 12 slats and is very well made IMHO.Mike
Reply:You wouldn't want to go with flat strap wider than 6'' or your clamps wouldn't reach to every spot.
Reply:There's pluses and minuses both ways. I've got two 2 foot sections one for each end. I used one of those the most for a flat clean surface. The rest are 12" sections and sometimes they're too wide and other they're too narrow. Sometimes the spaces a handy and sometimes they fall in exactly the wrong spot. There's no perfect answer. I think that if I would get around to drilling some holes and making up some clamps for them I would be happier without the gaps most of the time.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Good afternoon guys, taking the input from this forum and other sources this is Lee's Welding Table Rev. 2.0 (lol)I took the things I liked about the I beam table (rev 1) and incorporated into more of a flat bar set up. This idea would be to bolt the flat bar from the bottom (tap it 2/3 of the way through) and put spacers between the chassis and the flat bar. These drawings have 4" spacers but I already feel 4" is a bit much. 3" should be more than enough room to get clamps in there I would think..(?) (why go higher than you need)I also shrunk the chassis width by 4" to have a 2" on each side before I have to worry about hitting my spacers.Let me know what you think, I do appreciate everyone input.
Reply:If you make the legs of the table 4" taller, you won't need all those spacers.
Reply:The idea behind the spacers is it gets the table top plate above the chassis so I don't have to work around the 4 chassis beams when clamping. It should be pretty easy to work around the spacers. This wouldn't be as big of a deal if I didn't want to make the planks "movable  / adjustable" I wouldn't need the extra two square tubes in the middle.
Reply:I guess it is square tube, use biggest clamps and clamp right over the support rather than using the spacers for the flat bar? I just feel it would be nice to have a consistent thickness to clamp to.
Reply:Just make the top frame out of 2"x2"x1/4" or 2.5"x2.5"x1/4" angle iron and there won't be that big of a difference in the clamping thickness to deal with like the tubing would be, and still no need for all the spacers. Those spacers will get to be a PITA when you have to start dealing with taking them off and then lining them all back up when putting it back on, that's 8 spacers per slat. Think about it and multiply by how many slats you remove and put back. They will also tend to want to wobble around if they are not ultra tight. If the are not cut to exact lengths, then the table top won't line up flat either.
Reply:Rev. 3 lolWhat do you think about this? It's 3" X 1/4" but like what you were talking about. All of which makes sense when I think it through. Basic concept, I will add a trailer style receiver for the cut off saw and attachments like you mentioned earlier.5/8" plate, not sure the price difference to go up to 3/4".
Reply:That's getting better. I think with this layout you could eliminate doing two holes on each slat along the center supports, just one there will be sufficient. That will reduce some of your drilling and tapping, besides you would probably quit using some of those holes after taking off and replacing the slats several times. Maybe two where they meet the outside edge, but just one on the other supports.The bottom horizontal braces could go beteween the legs instead of around them, to give you a little more foot room around the table, too. How high is the table top going to be, 36"? I put 4 of the 2" receiver hitches on my table, to have multiple places to use attachments. You may want to think about using more than one also. That way you can have your saw set up on one and still have another for a vise or something else. With 2 on each end it gives you more options on how you can set up for each job, and allows you to pull out another accessory without having to remove 2 you are still going to need for awhile longer. I have had 2 vises on one side of the table holding something simultaneously and still had my saw on the other side for cutting. If you take care in aligning the receivers when you mount them, then later you can make extensions to go into them to extend the length of the table for when you need more room. That's what I planned for mine, but haven't made any extensions yet, until I get some more 3/8" plate. It's a good thing you didn't build the original version first and then start getting advise/ideas on better ways to do it to make it more user friendly. You would have had a lot more money tied up in those I beams  and tubing and then be looking to go back and change things around at more expense. Keep at it and soon you will have a design that may well more suit you and what you want to do with it. Try to keep in mind also, about being able to do things with it in the future that you may think right now that you would never do, (but what if?).Last edited by Bistineau; 03-18-2014 at 05:47 PM.
Reply:I think you're still going overboard on middle supports. My table is 33" deep and I've only got two supports. I've not had any problems at all with it and I'm sure I've done a LOT heavier jobs than you're likely to do on it. Also drilling holes to mount the slats limits you on where they can go. You need slots for them to adjust. The easy way to get slots is with two pieces of metal side by side. I used 1" x 1/8" wall sq tubing on the sides of the 3" x 3/16" wall tubing I used to support the table (which opens up to 10' long and closes up to 8' long with no gaps between the slats).  Another way to do slots is the use angle back to back. Then use long bolts to hold the slats. This is a crude drawing of that.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I like the center supports.  That'll allow you to setup the table like the stronghand ones where you can extend every other slat in the opposite direction to expand the surface of the table.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Best of both worlds?This is with 2"x1/4" angle and 2" square at each end. Just a quick sketch.If I go with 5/8" plate what would you guys suggest for bolt size? 4 per plate or 8?
Reply:For 6" wide slats I think that 4 would be enough.  The only thing I might add to that design would be a cross member under the 2" leg at the half way point and connected to the bottom pieces. It would help support the 2" angle and keep it straight.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitI think you're still going overboard on middle supports. My table is 33" deep and I've only got two supports. I've not had any problems at all with it and I'm sure I've done a LOT heavier jobs than you're likely to do on it.
Reply:I cut it from plate with my track torch. It was a really good flat piece of plate so I didn't have to do anything to them.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htmI think I have the top figured out. 1/2" grad 8 bolts, 4 per plank. I know its to big, heavy, awkward, overkill.. but since I have 20' of W6 I beam kicking around I am thinking about using it for the legs and such. What do you guys think??
Reply:I like your last design here. That will make for one solid table.
Reply:Originally Posted by cadillacleeI think I have the top figured out. 1/2" grad 8 bolts, 4 per plank. I know its to big, heavy, awkward, overkill.. but since I have 20' of W6 I beam kicking around I am thinking about using it for the legs and such. What do you guys think??
Reply:I didn't put the castors on the drawing, I was going to use these: (1000lbs castors).http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Heav...rake/2040288.p
Reply:Originally Posted by cadillacleeI didn't put the castors on the drawing, I was going to use these: (1000lbs castors).http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Heav...rake/2040288.p
Reply:I live an hour east of Edmonton, and spend most of my life working in the Alberta oil sands north of Bonnyville.  How about your self?
Reply:Wow, you're having great times with sketchup and this is very inspiring, i was fumbling designing one with top from 4 inch channel but your design is making me re consider it  good job, thank's for sharing
Reply:Originally Posted by cadillacleeI live an hour east of Edmonton, and spend most of my life working in the Alberta oil sands north of Bonnyville.  How about your self?
Reply:Why not come up north and get some oil money? Sketchup is amazing, I was able to make a table by watching a few tutorials as I went. I will gladly send any of my previous or present plans to anyone who wants them. (Might be better to make your own from scratch, I'm no expert.) The latest table I posted is rev 6 lol. I need to add castors + hitch recivers as previously discussed. Then I plan to upload my final design to the sketchup data base for others to use / modify to suit their own needs. My new Miller Dynasty 200DX just showed up so I'm going to hook that up Tomo. Then I plan to buy a Milwaukee dry cut so I can make my way through this stuff. Oh and a new drill press and get this thing thrown together. No rush, got this much work into it gotta do it right. I will post a picture once I get the final, final, final design. Than all that's left is to, uh, build it! (That small step).
Reply:Built tables from guide rail beams free W4x13 , made horses too.
Reply:I'd suggest rotating the low leg braces 90 degrees.  With the toes of the flanges up like that you're going to collect a lot of crap in there.
Reply:I like it
Reply:I like your design, can't wait to see it come together.Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:The horizontal W6s at the ends will fill up with all sorts of crap. Why not move them up a foot higher and put a hinged lid on them. One way or another you are going to put something in them, crap or clamps.
Reply:I have a 8 foot by 10 foot table and I just drilled 5/8 holes in a 12 inch pattern. I purchased some stronghold clamps. I wish I would have done this a long time ago.
Reply:Cool table drawing. Its not a bad idea to get input and ideas from others on a project like this. Here are two videos i made of the table build that worked well for me (there is some humor in P-2), maybe you'll see something to add to your thought tank and help ya with your own table: Part-1Part-2Part-3Good luck,GarLast edited by Gar; 03-21-2014 at 08:21 PM.Reason: Added linkLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:One small criticism--the design is very weak longitudinally. So the table will not remain flat, once you load it. Angle has very little resistance to bending along its length. I-beam or rectangular tube would be much better at keeping the long dimension in a flat plane.
Reply:less talk more weldsyncrowave 250Millermatic 211Fabricator 211iBobcat 250 EFI12VS Extreme24x40 shopSOME OF THE STUFF I HAVE BUILTwww.facebook.com/gowildfabhttp://www.gowildfabrication.com/
Reply:I agree with what you guys are saying about the horizontal I beams filling with crap, the reason I put the horizontal beams like I did is so I would be welding each end of the I beam to the flat side of the other I beam. How would you do it if you put the horizontal brace face up? You would have to notch out around the female side of the beam you were welding to, or have a gap if you only welded the top and bottom faces. Or weld a tab and bolt it (I didn't buy a Dynasty 200DX to bolt beams together lol).I do like the lid idea, no matter how much storage you have, its never enough. With regards to longitudinal strength this has been on my mind as well. I am not sure there is a good way to strengthen it, I want to keep the angle iron (2"X.25") cus its easy to clamp over top of. Having said that I will end up with a 1000'+ piece of crap if the angle iron bends in the middle.I will throw together a few drawings and get your guys opinion on what to do here. I just got my Dynasty 200DX set up a couple days ago. I want to get comfortable with it before starting to weld on the table (first tig). I am going to pick up my cold cut saw today. Drill press should be here in a couple weeks. Certainly not a quick project it should be worth it in the end.
Reply:Do it like I mentioned earlier. Put a cross member under the angle iron at mid point. Then a support going down to your super strong base.   If you'll look closely at my big table here you'll see two square tube cross members going across the bottom of the angles. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:This is with 1.5" heavy square tube across then 1.5" x 3" vertical. If I run it right across it will get in the way of my bolts so I have to section it. I will build the outer chassis first, then tach a temporary brace across the top and weld in the seconded piece I think.Still debating on raising the bottom chassis set up. The Castors are 7.5" tall I am thinking that will be enough room to get my feet under the end of the table (even with steel toes).. Putting the support as low as possible 7.5" off the ground) will maximize storage room. Plus keeping that heavy been as low as possible should help keep it sturdy If I am working on a heavy project or have a some of the bars extended and lots of weight hanging off the side. If you look close in this diagram I re-sized all the I beams. The stuff I got is 6" on the flat face and about 6 3/8" on the open side. Picking up the dry cut saw today and maybe the castors.
Reply:Just my .02...brainstorming the thing, suggestion for a stronger slide and no spacers to permit top to slide freely when needed.as always improvments on everything i design and do are possible  most of the time good sugestions are coming after it's fully welded
Reply:Yes it would get in the way of the bolts. But sometimes you've got to compromise.  The way you've got it drawn only the middle is getting supported the two outside pieces aren't really doing much. One way around it would be to bridge out from the center vertical piece say 6" below the bottom and come up to the two outer cross members. Kinda like a tree.  The very outside pieces you're showing aren't needed.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:One thing you might think about is the braces at the legs turned with the flanges vertical is going to catch a lot of grinding dust and junk. though would make a nice little place to put things.
Reply:For the excessive amount of material in this, the base is extra ordinarily heavy duty. But the top is a springboard. That's where the material should be.