Un-Chinese-ing a Harbor Freight 6x48 belt sander!

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A good belt sander is easily one of the most useful and used fabricating tools I've ever used. I had to get one but the problem is they're like $1500+After using a Harbor Freight 6" x 48" belt sander for a while at a job I quickly realized it would be a totally decent tool if you 'fix' a few things.I picked up a new sander from HF with the 20% coupon for a total of $160 (a steal... after some work) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-x-48-inch-belt-and-9-inch-disc-combination-sander-6852.htmlHere's a quick list of the things that need to be changed:1) More powerful motor2) Re-gear for faster belt speed3) Replace all the crap bearings with double sealed ABEC 3 or better4) Use a not-crap adjustable length V-belt5) Make a not-crap standThe sander turns the belt at 1280 surface feet per minute out of the box,which is way to slow to do any good on metal.All the other brands run at 2400 to maybe 3500 sfpm, so this is what I shot for.Simply regearing on the crappy 1hp motor means you'll stall it all the time andit'll remove material slowly, so we need a1) More powerful motorHere's the factory 1HP 3450rpm motor and the new 2HP 3400rpm compressor motor.First things first, made a stout adapter plate to posotion the motor properly using theexisting slotted holes in the sander frame.These slotted holes were die ground out to remove casting flash, make them actually straight,and to slighlt oversize them for the 3/8" bolts I used.Holding the bolts and nuts while trying to slide the motor back to tighten the belt isannoying as hell so I welded studs in the plate so one 1 ratchet is required.Here's how I ensured the studs welded in perfectly straight. Leave the bolt slightly low to allow for a plug weld with filler while keeping the weld flush, or let you grind the plug weld smooth w/o grinding all of the weld off.Next I added a 'tensioner' bolt to allow me to easily set the belt tension just right.First I dissolved the nut's zinc plating with muriatic acid in 30 seconds, resulting is perfectly weldable steel.Added a standoff so the bolt will clear the base with a socket on it.Weld to the cast iron sander base in the appropriate spot.This was kinda tricky, I just used 308L stainless filler and built up 2 or 3 passes until the cracking stopped.Lightly welded the motor's base to the 1/4" plate adapter base plate, and added a flat spot for the tensioner bolt to push against.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-10-2013 at 10:10 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:One of the first thing that MUST be done is replacing all 4 of the bearings with non-complete garbage ones.I replaced the bearing with ABEC 3, double sealed bearings from ebay. I used (2RS to keep out the dust unlike double shielded, ZZ).They were really cheap, like $4 each. *(I'll get the bearing numbers and post them here)One of the bearings dust shield was popped off out of the box, and immediately filled up with grinding dust.Needless to say this wouldn't have lasted long, lol.I added a stainless gusset to this particularly thin spot of the pivoting design(this sander will run horizontal to vertical or anywhere between).The entire top end is supported by like a 3"x1/2" thick section of casting.This should help make the thing more rigid and give me some peace of mind that the wholething doesn't just break off if the thing tips over or gets hit really hard. I also had to form the top of the gusset to clearance around the pivoting part.Being crappy cast iron this was pretty difficult to weld w/o it just cracking.I flowed some 308L filler on to the cast and brushed and repeated until all the crap was cooked out.Then I welded that to the stainless gusset with more passes.The trick getting it to not crack is to add a fair amount of filler after you've got filler stuck to the cast. No preheat or peening or anything.This belt is the adjustable length type link belt. These are simply awesome because theydon't take on a pill shape at rest and therefore don't vibrate at all while running.This is a name brand europe made belt and it's available at HF, awesome product.http://www.harborfreight.com/vibrati...elt-43771.htmlRe-gearing was the tricky part.You can't simply swap the gears because the motor shaft is 16mm and the driven axle is 15mm, and my new motor has a 5/8" shaft.After searching online for 15mm bore pulley of the correct size I gave up and came up with a solution.I shimmed the 16mm motor pulley to fit the 15mm driven shaft by using a flexible brassfeeler gauge of just the right thickness to give a tight fit. ..and simply bought a larger 5/8" bore adjustable diameter pulley (sheave) to let me increase the belt speed.I think It's set around 2800rpm, but I'd have to double check.Made a quick belt shield...Made a sturdy stand of just the right height and put it on locking casters so i can easily get it out and put it away as needed.I wanted to keep the footprint minimal so this thing isnt cumbersome to work with.Also added some tabs to hold a 4 gallon bucket which will has water in it to cool parts as they heat up.I'll probably add a couple sand bags behind the bucket to give the thing some more mass.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-10-2013 at 10:55 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:reserved 2Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:upssssssMauricio
Reply:I have the smaller version of this sander and have had it for awhile. I really like it! You may make me want to get a bigger one now. I don't like how much work is involved to change the belt though.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IT3YknV03JM[/ame]An excellent tool for <$300.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:The casters are from ebay; really cheap ones. They kinda suck so I wouldn't recommend them.I discovered that Home Depot has really nice 3,4, and 5" red polyurethane 'full lock' casters. The toggle locks the wheels rotation and the casters swivel... and they're cheap.http://www.homedepot.com/p/5-in-Poly...7#.Ud4x6Pm1EYMWelding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Nice job. I learned a new word here:not-crap
Reply:Very nice job on this.   I have a small ryobi belt sander and it does ok, but I would like to eventually step up to a bigger one.  i will have to remember these mods.
Reply:Great job.  Thanks for posting.
Reply:Definitely a not-crap write up! Thanks..
Reply:Excelent Mauricio
Reply:Got my craftsman belt sander for $180... not $1k+ and it works great.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:this is awesome! I need to mod mine now.  When you get a chance, would love to know the bearing part numbers.
Reply:Nice work Mike.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Nice job and great thread! Thanks for posting up.
Reply:Thanks for the thread!  I've been trying to get around to "Un-Chinese-ing" my Crapsman 1970's 6x48 belt + 9" disc for about a year.  But I have not been able to stabilize the top roller tracking adjustment.  When I do, I'll post it.  Noticed your  work rest (?) looks like my crappy one.  Are you going to upgrade that too?I want to replace it with a larger one with maybe a 6"w x 4"d platform to be able to square up things better.  Also want to move it "up" the sanding belt about 12".  Most of what I use it for now is bevelling the ends of 14ga steel tube to weld.  Higher up the belt makes it easier to maneuver tube up to about 4' long.  Good job on yours so far!
Reply:Originally Posted by Fabn4FunThanks for the thread!  I've been trying to get around to "Un-Chinese-ing" my Crapsman 1970's 6x48 belt + 9" disc for about a year.  But I have not been able to stabilize the top roller tracking adjustment.  When I do, I'll post it.  Noticed your  work rest (?) looks like my crappy one.  Are you going to upgrade that too?I want to replace it with a larger one with maybe a 6"w x 4"d platform to be able to square up things better.  Also want to move it "up" the sanding belt about 12".  Most of what I use it for now is bevelling the ends of 14ga steel tube to weld.  Higher up the belt makes it easier to maneuver tube up to about 4' long.  Good job on yours so far!
Reply:NICE work!  There are a bunch of HF tools that can be upgraded to do real work.  I put a bigger motor on my vertical mill, but still need to do the bearings like you did.  A lot of HF motorized tools are under powered.  Yours should be good for a LONG time now!Hemi-T"Ignorance can be fixed, but stupid is forever."Hobart BetaMig 2510Everlast PowerPro 256 TigMiller Radiator-1 Tig cooler
Reply:Nice work on the belt sander Mike!As I once heard someone say, "consider the new Harbor Freight (inset tool description here) a partially assembled kit".I have an older 6X48 Craftsman built by Emerson that looks like it was probably the parent design for the Import clone you have.  I gave $30 for it.  Some of the best money I have spent! Originally Posted by MikeGyverYes I was going to make a new work rest. That's the supplied one, it's not even straight. it curves downward as it goes out from the mount lol. I'll probably make one out of some 1/2" cold rolled steel strips or something.
Reply:Nicely done and thanks for posting!200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Appreciate the post, nice jobGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Nice job...
Reply:Here's an update. This thing still works awesome and it's worth every penny. I use it more than my 4.5" grinder.The bearings numbers are:Top roller has two 6201 bearingsBottom roller has one 6201, and a 6202 w/ snap ring on the OD.Mare sure you get "2rs" (two rubber seals) bearings, ZZ shielded bearings will not seal out grinding dust.And get at least ABEC 3 quality.You can get the bearings on Ebay for like $4 each.Some improvements:longer (15ft), more flexible rubber 10awg cord (from home depot)hanger for cord that doesn't stick out the sidehard mounting point where power cord goes into the machine (instead of going into the power box)better castersLast edited by MikeGyver; 03-02-2014 at 06:19 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Go Utah!Nice job on that.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch coolermikeg; excellent re-build. looks like you discovered a niche type small business of upgrading cheep hf shop tooling to something anyone would be proud to own.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Thank's for posting this well planned work, you're a daring man, welding on an unknown casting like that...Succesfully i may add.I want one ... the only weak point to me is that open motor replacing an enclosed one, metallic dust +magnetic field and air flow from internal motor fan could shorten that motor's life. At least you will have the bolt pattern to accomodate a non chineese frame tefc motor.
Reply:Excellent work, MikeGyver!  Thanks for sharing.
Reply:Outstanding.  Thanks for sharing with us on the web.   Great job.
Reply:Awesome conversion! Will totally need this thread in future I got a motor already.
Reply:Very nice.  But I didn't see any comments about the choice of motor.  There is talk about the sealed bearings and grinding grit, but the motor does not appear to be a TEFC.  I'm working on a similar project (slowly) and have a 2 hp TEFC I set aside to use on it.
Reply:It's just a motor I had laying around from a dead air compressor. I blow the thing off very well after each use that warrants it.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Fair enough.  "On hand" is often a trump for me as well.
Reply:pinching few ideas.found use now for one of spare motors on shelf at work.
Reply:Nice job, un-chinese-ing is a skill most lack. You nailed it.Millermatic 251Century 180 migSpectrum 625 Syncrowave 250DX