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Hey everyone. Looking to build some panniers for my KLR 650! Panniers are basically side saddle hard luggage for those who don't know the term. The type I plan to build are used mainly on adventure style motorcycles. I'm going to build these with .080 5052 aluminum sheet and I'm going to bend the lengthwise section (inside wall, bent 90 to bottom and another 90 to the outside wall... when mounted on the bike). The front and rear "caps" will be tig welded to the body (the caps being the wall furthest front and rear when mounted on the bike) I wish I could get some photos of what I'm talking about but I hope you all can kind of understand what I'm trying to build. Reference these from happytrail.com as this is pretty much what I'm trying to build: http://www.happy-trail.com/ZoomImage...2008_KLR650-OWSo my main Qs are I need help on how to measure my cuts and how to fit up the end caps to tig weld them. Since .080 is not that thick, should I overlap one sheet over each corner? Meaning instead of perfect measured cuts where I fill the gap in each corner, I'll add .080 x 2 on each length of the end caps and the body will but right up aginst the end caps? All I have is a tig welder and very limited equipment otherwise so I'm also just planning on holding the aluminum in place and tack welding without filler. Another thing is, the top of the box, a lid will obviously be made for it, but on the pannier itself, is just going end. No rolled or 90 degree bend on the aluminum (like happy trails has). I will glue a gasket around the perimeter edge of the sheet and the lid will seal around that. When I tig weld this together, will I have problems with distortion and keeping the aluminum straight? Thanks so much for anyone who has the time to comment. -OutdoortDynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Oh and I just realized that I didn't change my title after I deleted some some parts of my OP when I realized it was kinda long winded. But basically I'm thinking if this works out well that I may turn it into a little side business for some friends etc. Anyone got any input for me yet!? Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Anyone got any input for me yet!? [/QUOTE] I didn't realize that panniers were hard sided. That being said if you are making hard sided luggage for your dual purpose bike and actually using it off road I can guarantee that it will get scratched, smashed and broken. You might be better off with saddle bags made from ballistic cloth. At least that's been my experience. I love the dual purpose bikes and the freedom they deliver but they do take a beating off road. Good luck with your project.
Reply:I would brake up the lids so that you end up with an open corner like this, it'll give you better penetration than lapping it over.A word of advice, I'd look at getting insured or at least having an incorporated business, possibly both if you're going to be selling these to people. If something were to fail on one and cause the rider to go down you'd be looking at the possibility of some serious litigation.
Reply:distortion and keeping the aluminum straight
Reply:Since you commented you don't have many tools, you will probably want to look at having some one else bend your parts and probably get all your parts laser or water jet cut..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by gundog77Anyone got any input for me yet!?
Reply:You're going to be hard-pressed to get the KLR riders to give up their milk crates for a set of panniers.
Reply:I think the soft saddle bags would be a much better option because a solid metal bag is going to be like a weapon in the event of an accident or even a minor get off. I know a guy that made a high quality photo copy of an off highway vehicle license plate, reduced the size and mounted it on his fender under clear number plate protector. Quite a few years ago they decided to make the off highway and motorcycle license plates larger. This guy does a lot of enduro and cross country riding/racing and is almost hoping he gets stopped and asked for insurance and registration. A big license plate sticking out might as well be a sharp knife just waiting to injure you! I think a hard metal saddle bag off road would be about the same.
Reply:Thanks for your post. This was kinda what I was wondering what joint would be best. Thanks for the advice about insurance and incorporating.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Thanks for the advice guys, sorry it took me so long to respond back. I'm kinda stuck on another question now though. I'm planning on powder coating these panniers and that requires a baking in the oven. If I'm using 5052 sheet, should I use 4043 filler because the powder coating is kinda acting as a form of heat treatment. (been told that I should use 4043 even on 5xxx series aluminum if a heat treatment will occur after as the silicon in 4043 is less crack prone than 5356. Was told to go 5356 if no heat treatment will occur. ????Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Hey everyone. I'm just going to bump my old thread cuz I have a quick question before I tig these panniers together. I have them all tacked up and ready to go. Heres a pic:My question is: When I weld the long seam towards the opening of these boxes at the top, will I experience any warping? I plan to clamp some aluminum angle at the top edge (one piece along one of the shorter length and another along one of the longer length) so as I'm tiging from the bottom of the box upwards, hopefully preventing any warping at the top edge of the .080 aluminum. This is where I definitely dont want any warpage as I will be installing a seal within the lid so when its shut, the top edge of the box seats evenly within the seal.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:By the way. I'm going to use 5356 filler, as I found out that the baking of the powdercoat won't hurt this filler. (only long heat treatments aren't good). -This was in reference to my question I had before above.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Weld from the open side down.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:What about bending a lip inwards on the top. That would be a better way to prevent warping and make them less prone to bending in the long runTiger Sales: AHP Distributor www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P, Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma. For Sale: Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun. Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonWeld from the open side down.
Reply:At Souttpaw: Thought about that, but I really don't wan't them to have that reduced width when you are putting stuff inside and such. Also, no access to a finger brake right now.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:I would have fit them up a bit different than it looks like you have. Edges look butted up flush with each other, leaving you no place for filler. I'd have set the pieces so the inside edges just touched leaving you a natural V in the corner to fill..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:No i fit them up just like ur saying you would. U probably just cant tell much from the photos.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:You could have bent the sides and back out of 1 piece. That would have saved you 2 long welds.Rich
Reply:Originally Posted by steelsurgeonYou could have bent the sides and back out of 1 piece. That would have saved you 2 long welds.Rich
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortIf I understand what ur saying correctly I don't think I could have done that with a typical box and pan brake (as far as fitting it under the fingers with clearance etc). I'll probably be building more of these in the future so I'm all ears on better designs and such. The bevel on the bottom of the boxes are pretty important, so I'm not looking to eliminate that at all. I guess I'm going to go ahead and tig these up in the next few minutes. Wish me luck! I'll post pics of them after if anyone is interested.
Reply:Thank you, Affende. That's exactly what I meant...Rich
Reply:WOW! Thats a hell of a better design than I had. Thanks a lot Steel surgeon and Affende!! Ya I'm definately doing that next, It also will save on cutting a additional piece. The way I did it, I had 3 separate pieces to cut out. I don't know why I didn't think of that too, cuz I put a lot of thought into this project so far.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Affende: Really appreciate the time u spent on putting those diagrams/pics together.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450Originally Posted by outdoortWOW! Thats a hell of a better design than I had. Thanks a lot Steel surgeon and Affende!! Ya I'm definately doing that next, It also will save on cutting a additional piece. The way I did it, I had 3 separate pieces to cut out. I don't know why I didn't think of that too, cuz I put a lot of thought into this project so far.
Reply:Now that i have a better understanding of how the panniers mount, though. I would change the design. I would make the front and the sides in one piece and make the back and bottom in one piece. That way the welds are on the bottom and the back and the nice pretty bends are on the front and sides. Depending on the brake you have and its capabilities, i would also try my hardest to add the bevel to the front piece as well. 3 bends on the front piece to form each side and the bevel ... 2 bends on the back piece to form the back and the bottom. That is probably as clear as mud. haha.AWS CWI xxxx21711968 SA200 Originally Posted by WelderMike I hate being bipolar, It's awesome.
Reply:Originally Posted by AFFENDENow that i have a better understanding of how the panniers mount, though. I would change the design. I would make the front and the sides in one piece and make the back and bottom in one piece. That way the welds are on the bottom and the back and the nice pretty bends are on the front and sides. Depending on the brake you have and its capabilities, i would also try my hardest to add the bevel to the front piece as well. 3 bends on the front piece to form each side and the bevel ... 2 bends on the back piece to form the back and the bottom. That is probably as clear as mud. haha.
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortYou mean one bend on the back piece not two right? Unless at the bevel were talking about doing a lap joint. Where the back piece at the bottom is bent 45* up and the front piece is bent 45* down. That would be a strong system because the bevel is the point where impacts are going to be more likely (in the event of laying your bike down. Thats why the bevel is there in the first place. That also would be pretty difficult to weld the lap inside the box and possible fit up difficulties.
Reply:That's really the best design. I thought of that, too, but knowing that I don't have a way to show drawings of it, I figured that it'd be pretty hard for me to explain!A picture's worth a thousand words!Rich
Reply:Awesome! One again thanks guys. Ya a picture is definitely worth a thousand words. Il be using that design next.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:I wish i didnt have to keep bringing this thread back up but im in the middle of drawing my cut measurments so i can start getting quotes for cuts. My questionnwhile i do this is: should i be extending my measurments to account for the bend radiuses? The bends in this .080 amuminum do end up being pretty tight but im not sure if i should add .080" or so for every bend in the aluminum. By the way im pretty much using the desigh ilustrated to me above by the helpful guys reccomending that.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:If I bend a 16" sheet to form square tube it grows to more than 4". The radius of the bend gives more size. You need to subtract not add.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I bend a good bit of .o63 at work and I do not add for the bends i subtract it usually stretches and is about a 1/16 longer. On .o63 the only time I add is if I am trying to bend to get an inside dimension. Like if I want a u shape with 4 inch legs and a 4 " inside width I will subtract a 1/16 on each of my 4" legs and add it to my bottom and comes out darn close to being 4" inside.Sent from my C811 4G using TapatalkVantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:OP - Did you weld up your first prototype? How did they turn out?Affede- What CAD program are you using to convert 3D to 2D sheet?
Reply:Originally Posted by SynergyOP - Did you weld up your first prototype? How did they turn out?Affede- What CAD program are you using to convert 3D to 2D sheet?
Reply:Thanks for the heads up guys. Im using the desight that affende posted his cad drawing the first time around (post 22). So with that maybe il subtract 2mm from the main wrap around panel to account for the two 90 degree bends. Let me know if u guys would do differently. Thanks!!!Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:33:23