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I'm welding these square tubes to the top of a I beam. I'm looking for suggestions on filling the area where the radius of the tube meets the flat surface. Should I run a root then a cover?Material is all .25". Machine is a miller 252.Thx. Attached Images
Reply:It appears the tube is perpendicular to the I beam. The weld is normally ran with the run or length of the beam. It would be ran on the edge of beam and not on the top of the flange. All structural engineers have their own specs so verify with them.
Reply:You are welding a flare groove. It would be wise to use two passes. First one to seal the root then put in a proper sized fillet. There has been a history as to how much weld to put in. Thirty years ago this problem was ignored by structural welding codes but it became a problem, especially with tube trusses. If you do it in one pass you end up piling the material across and not fusing at the root. Better to run a small bead in the bottom. Your travel speed with the first pass would be relatively fast compared to the cover.
Reply:Thanks. Should the root be a bit hotter than the cover? 10% or 20%?
Reply:brendonvThis is my most dreaded weld condition because it is so difficult to excise the weld if a repair/modification arises.In my own work - assuming both sides are welded [restrained] I would cut a .375" piece of flat-bar the width of the beam, and tall enough to be above the radius of the tube.As lotechman noted: "Thirty years ago this problem was ignored by structural welding codes but it became a problem" . . .I have substituted this 'FB joint' when prints simply called out a fillet; and did so without notification because I didn't want to deliberate the merits of making a mess.Opus
Reply:I wouldn't weld to much accross that beam in your situation. I would weld a heavy weld lengthwise under the tube and either none on top of the beam, or not much anyway. Then run a gusset from the top of the tube down and forward or rearward on the beam, keeping the majority of the weld along the length of the beam. In your situation your going to need gussets to keep those bunks from tipping anyway and this way it gives a longer weld area on the beam without causing much damage to the flange. Your flanges are going to get enough of a workout without running a bead across. I would also run a couple stiffeners from flange to flange on your beams like they did at the axles to help hold the flange edges from being bent. Because you live in the rust belt I would run a small fast weld across there just to keep salt and crap out and rust from starting, but not really for any structural strength and to keep the heat damage and bowing of your beam to a minimum.Last edited by welderj; 07-16-2015 at 02:13 PM.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:I have gussets 3x3 triangles running parrellel with the long sills already welded to the cross members. I fully welded my last trailer with much lighter components and didn't notice any cracking/ issues. Do we think ill see cracking where the bunks meet the long sill? That was also a smaller radius tube at 3x3x.190 tho.Think owner operator too. No employee abuse or outsider loading or unloading. I visually see down force and trailer flex when considering the above. Attached ImagesLast edited by brendonv; 07-16-2015 at 02:28 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by brendonvI have gussets 3x3 triangles running parrellel with the long sills already welded to the cross members. I fully welded my last trailer with much lighter components and didn't notice any cracking/ issues. Do we think ill see cracking where the bunks meet the long sill? That was also a smaller radius tube at 3x3x.190 tho.Think owner operator too. No employee abuse or outsider loading or unloading. I visually see down force and trailer flex when considering the above.
Reply:I wouldnt weld any of that down hill with Mig! Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:All welds on bunks were done on a table. Aka the ground after I broke a saw horse lol. No vertical or downhill welding. No fun wrestling them around solo I tell ya Attached ImagesLast edited by brendonv; 07-16-2015 at 03:30 PM.
Reply:The vertical weld on the gusset in post #7 sure looks like it was down hill. Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Hmm nope. I can assure you no welds were done in any up or down orientation. Left to right, right to left.
Reply:I hope he eventually posts the whole build. This is a very interesting project with some significant engineering difficulties that he solved very well I think.Sent from my VS985 4G using TapatalkYeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:+1 for a complete build thread!
Reply:Brendonv, pls keep the build pics coming!30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Ill try to do something when its rolling and i have a minute. Ive got logs piling up on jobs and a ton more work to do!Heres a clue. Attached Images |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:32:43