The Patio Cover

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i've been working on my patio cover, approx 48ft x 15ft (~625sq.ft. worth of cover)anyways, my center section bracket got some bad criticism so i changed it out for something better, and it works better too.Before1/4" tube that i made biggerAfter(3/8" top & bottom plates, 3/16" sides, 5.5" lags on bottom, 5" lags on top)Last edited by welding_kid; 06-15-2013 at 01:40 PM.
Reply:looks good
Reply:i went with wife to go look for some metal decoration for this center section but didnt find anything we like yet. this project is suppose to be ornamental-architecture for all the metal pieces. so having big plain box is kinda drab, etc. but, in due time we will find the right stuff to make it look better.i have copper coming up one column so i plan to do a full wrap with a misting system. i will likely build the pumping system from a 1500psi pressure washer pump driven by a 240v motor. pump will be located about 50ft away.next week i plan to cut into the stucco to add ledger boards.
Reply:I would have swapped the plates around. 3/8s on the sides.
Reply:Originally Posted by Steelin' DucksI would have swapped the plates around. 3/8s on the sides.
Reply:in this case the two 3/16" sides provide equivalent 3/8" center section i-beam strength. 3/8" top and bottom provide enough steel to act as a good clamping surface with high bending resistance. using lags in load axial eliminates the stress points i originally had (orig design called for only 4ft x 1/4" side plates with 12 carriage bolts). through-holes through the side of GluLam's is something that should be avoided.i currently have 16 long lags in load axial. 8 on bottom clamping the beam tightly to the bottom section of the tube, and another 8 on top snug to provide additional clamping force.considering the dead load this thing carries its all way overkill, but building code requires the addition of live load in the design.
Reply:so, just an update. seems like every project comes with its share of problems. in this case my lumber got a tad twisty, so i made a tool to bend them back and i made some temp brackets to hold wood in place while roofing system goes on. the tool will be padded with some wood strips.Last edited by welding_kid; 08-08-2013 at 05:50 PM.
Reply:update. progress is coming along. had to make this tool to get me out of a situation.
Reply:OK.  I have been in the lumber industry for 22 years.  Couple questions come to mind that are NOT welding related.They are just brought out because of experience.1-  Looking at the design, and the distance from the coupler you made to the end of the beam, why did you not just run a longer beam, or put the joint on the bracket at the stucco column?2-  I am familiar with X-Beam, but are you aware that unless the beam is laid up from Cedar, such as Alaskan Yellow, or Port Orford, or is pressure treated, it will have NO warranty.The beam appears to be a standard 24FV4, which is all Douglas Fir laminations, and is intended for INTERIOR use only.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlarkinOK.  I have been in the lumber industry for 22 years.  Couple questions come to mind that are NOT welding related.They are just brought out because of experience.1-  Looking at the design, and the distance from the coupler you made to the end of the beam, why did you not just run a longer beam, or put the joint on the bracket at the stucco column?2-  I am familiar with X-Beam, but are you aware that unless the beam is laid up from Cedar, such as Alaskan Yellow, or Port Orford, or is pressure treated, it will have NO warranty.The beam appears to be a standard 24FV4, which is all Douglas Fir laminations, and is intended for INTERIOR use only.
Reply:Originally Posted by welding_kidyou mean a single beam from column to column, and then a shorter piece from the column out to form the canterlever? way too much torque to have the joint right at the column bracket, would need a huge bracket to support that type of torque moment.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlarkinWhat I meant was, assuming you have only 2 columns, as it appears in the last pic., why not use 1 continuous beam.  No joint (hinge point) at all.If there are 3 columns, (can't really tell as only 2 are shown), place the joint on the center column, there for drastically reducing or eliminating any torque moment from the cantilevered section.Since I don't know where "down here" is I can't comment on what is commonly used.I will say that, in the AITC (American Institute of Timber Construction)  guidelines, any engineered beam that can not be kept at 20% or less moisture conditions, must be either pressure treated, or laid up from insect/decay resistant heartwoods (cedars and redwoods).I have seen claims denied because of the use of standard 24f V4 df/df glu lams used in exterior applications, even though they were painted, stained, or otherwise protected from exposure.
Reply:hey folks, just an update. finally found some roofing material that would work for me and did not cost too much. these pics show about 25% progress. as of today i have completed about 75%.a little fabric softener with water in spray bottle really helps the panels lock together (makes the seam slip over easier, etc). so as you see, its Tyvek as the water barrier, then some 3/8" foiled fan-fold Insulfoam, then Fabral 1" raised seam (horizon 16). btw, Tyvek has been up for months and has gotten spurts of heavy rain, no issues. and a note on the glulam - my digi-inclinometer still shows same #'s on all areas i measured months ago, but i will monitor deflection after add this new roofing materials (i had calculated 3/4" deflection at the ends of the canterlevers using some initial material choices, Fabral panels are on-par with my initial lb/sqft materials). the horizon-16's are nice size because you can use self-stick flexible solar panels that fit right into the panels. taking a long time to complete, but its a 1-man job thus far.....Last edited by welding_kid; 03-31-2014 at 08:23 PM.
Reply:Looks great, the work is coming along. What guage are the sheet metal pieces? Please update with final pics.
Reply:Fabral Horizon-16's are steel 26 gauge