D-ring Hitch- Thickness?

admin

Hey y'all,Recently Lanse (aka Chucke2009 on youtube) posted a video about making d ring kitches. I saw it and figured I wanna make my own. I already have some 2x2x1/4 tubing, but my question lies in the thickness for the plate at the front where the d-ring will be welded to. I have some left over 3/8" plate, do y'all think that would be thick enough to use? I am planning on making a few for me and my friends. I appreciate it!Last edited by vettelvr75; 04-17-2014 at 01:52 PM.
Reply:3/8 is the perfect thickness.Should be just right.~ JohnJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:That's great for me! Means I wont have to purchase any materials.One more question, I will be using a 220v handler 187, and I will bevel the 1/4" tubing to get good penetration with the 3/8, should I do multiple passes or just one pass?
Reply:If you have to ask that get a pro to weld it, lots of liability issues .
Reply:The only way I will learn is by asking questions. Of course I could use common sense and say well three passes will be stronger, and do three passes, but is that the right way to do it? Is three passes in this situation actually stronger than one? These are the things I don't know hence the reason why I asked.
Reply:Hey now,I would run three passes....Bevel the square tubing, grind everything shiny bright, and weld her up with three passes.That will be strong as anything.Get a pic up, and that will shut-up a bunch of weldingweb police.Good-luck,~JohnJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75The only way I will learn is by asking questions. Of course I could use common sense and say well three passes will be stronger, and do three passes, but is that the right way to do it? Is three passes in this situation actually stronger than one? These are the things I don't know hence the reason why I asked.
Reply:IF you're going to use Fillet welds to attach pieces together, then make the leg of the fillet equal to or greater than the thickness of the material you're using.  This will ensure that a sound quality weld will not fail before the base metal fails.For example, if you're joining 2 pieces of 3/8" thick A36 steel in a lap joint, then use a fillet weld that has legs 3/8" long.  The number of passes is irrelevant, assuming the welds are sound and free of gross defects.  The weld will not fail in tension before the 3/8" plate does.  You could make the weld in a single pass with 1/16" FCAW-G wire.  You could also make it in 3 passes with 1/8" stick, or 0.035" solid wire, with appropriate machine settings.  You could TIG weld the same 3/8" fillet using 2 passes 3/32 tungsten and 1/8" or 3/32" filler rod and the right machine settings.With your Handler, I'd use 0.035" solid wire and C25 gas or 100% CO2, making 3 passes to complete the weld.  You could also use 0.035 FCAW-S wire and the same 3 pass bead sequence.Last edited by A_DAB_will_do; 04-17-2014 at 05:27 PM.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:You guys aren't very helpful!! edit (excluding Dab)The OP is asking a simple question, should he run three passes.Simple question, should be simple answer....This is the forum for Pros and Enthusiasts.vettelvr75.Can you run a bead on a piece of scrap metal and show us  your bead??~JohnJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:If you can, make your doubler plates in the shape of an oval, or diamond! Stress risers can bite you in the butt, on something like this.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentrationDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:First of all, my apologies to OldSkool, I was never meaning to come off in a sarcastic or demeaning tone, I was just simply replying to his statement. I am just a young kid (20) wanting to improve my welding abilities thats all. Second of all, woah! I was not expecting this much great feedback from a simple question! All the info y'all have shared has helped so much. Thanks! Originally Posted by AKweldshopvettelvr75.Can you run a bead on a piece of scrap metal and show us  your bead?? ~John
Reply:If I'm thinking that you are making dring mounts for towing and recovery I have never seen a recovery dring mount under 3/4 in all my travels from my first jeep on 31's to my last on 44" boggers to my current crawler on 42's.Airco Heliweld II AC/DC HomeMade Wire FeederLincoln 255PLincoln HD130Everlast PP804x8 CNC TableWelding helps me build my hobbies and takes up time on the side.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75What do you guys think?
Reply:Not necessarily specifically for recovery.. This is just a hitch that will be able to go into any receiver.. I agree that if it were to be putting a d ring on a bumper, that i would use 3/4 for the mount. But this will be a plate welded to the end of a 2x2 tubing.. Then the d ring will be welded onto the plate. like this....I wish i had a vehicle with something more than 40's... Im just stuck with a z71 silverado with 35's....I bet those were/are some pretty sweet rigs. The plate used in this picture appears to be 1/2"However, for the usage i have in mind and by advice from the other members, the 3/8 plate i already have will be good enough. I will be using 10,000 lb weld on d rings.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPGood habit to get into, is try not leaving the stop / crater on the end like in your picture. Try to leave it in the center of the weld. Generally the crater is the weakest part of a weld.Hey, you asked.
Reply:Just fuel for thought. I'm learning myself. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPJust fuel for thought. I'm learning myself.
Reply:Not arguing what you are doing but I like a shackle better.I don't have a pic of my two, but I was given 2 draw bars and had a couple shackles.  Advantage being say to pull out a stuck car you can use a looped tow strap, wrap it around whatever on the car, put the other end through the loop.  Now it's tied to the car, take the shackle off, put the other loop in the shackle.  Real easy setup that cannot fall off.Another thing I have done is use the draw bar pin to hold the strap in the hitch without a receiver.Something like this.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7084_200617084
Reply:I weld those d-rings on in one pass with mig you got to crAnk some heat into it never had to multi pass one just remember to wrap your corners . I actually weld them to 1/4 inch plate on the bumpers I build. Pull back a 1/4 inch or so when your at the end of your weld it moves the stop away from the end
Reply:Originally Posted by kcb37Not arguing what you are doing but I like a shackle better.I don't have a pic of my two, but I was given 2 draw bars and had a couple shackles.  Advantage being say to pull out a stuck car you can use a looped tow strap, wrap it around whatever on the car, put the other end through the loop.  Now it's tied to the car, take the shackle off, put the other loop in the shackle.  Real easy setup that cannot fall off.Another thing I have done is use the draw bar pin to hold the strap in the hitch without a receiver.Something like this.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7084_200617084
Reply:did somebody say d-rings????????????????"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammdid somebody say d-rings????????????????
Reply:I use to load barges with material, and equipment heading to Alaska. They would send me D-rings by the 55-gallon drums full. They are a very handy item to have.  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Okay, well yesterday AKweldshop had asked if I had any pictures of my welds. The only good ones I had were the ones I posted. Today I ran two 4" long fillet welds on a couple pieces of 1/4" bar stock. Here are the pics and tell me what you guys think. I personally think they look good and I felt i was getting good penetration. Sorry the photos aren't the best, I took them on my iphone.This is what I feel was the better weld of the two I ran. Side pic so you can see how much of the weld is proud. This was the first bead of the day, If i am correct, I believe I had a little bit of undercut on the right side of the bead... Is that right?
Reply:They look good to me. For structural welds with Mig, you want to run as hot as you can handle it. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400Originally Posted by CEPThey look good to me. For structural welds with Mig, you want to run as hot as you can handle it.
Reply:Don't get me wrong about the whole d ring  shackle deal.  Just my reason for a shackle over a d ring.  They both have their use, if the d ring fits your needs and you have that material laying around go for it.
Reply:D Rings and Shackles are both wonderful tools in there place I use both and feel good using both of then. J. R. Bauer
Reply:When I use a tow strap to pull I loop it on the victim and put the other end in my empty receiver and put the pin through the loop. Has worked well for me many times.Nice welds, vettelvr75!GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelWhen I use a tow strap to pull I loop it on the victim and put the other end in my empty receiver and put the pin through the loop. Has worked well for me many times.Nice welds, vettelvr75!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPGood habit to get into, is try not leaving the stop / crater on the end like in your picture. Try to leave it in the center of the weld. Generally the crater is the weakest part of a weld.Hey, you asked.
Reply:Drink upJ. R. Bauer
Reply:For now, stop using that cursive "e" looping motion. Why you're still learning to read the puddle,  you're asking to have lack of fusion issues along the length of the weld bead using a looping motion.  Instead at first work on traveling straight along the weld, keeping the arc towards the leading edge of the weld puddle, and use a little side to side motion if needed. The side to side motion could be a slight as just a little wiggle. Attached ImagesESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestNot to hijack the thread but just curious.Are you saying its best to weld from both ends towards a center point whenever possible to avoid the crater being on the end?Do you hold the puddle at the end a little extra to fill the crater when you reach the end?
Reply:Originally Posted by DanFor now, stop using that cursive "e" looping motion. Why you're still learning to read the puddle,  you're asking to have lack of fusion issues along the length of the weld bead using a looping motion.  Instead at first work on traveling straight along the weld, keeping the arc towards the leading edge of the weld puddle, and use a little side to side motion if needed. The side to side motion could be a slight as just a little wiggle.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75Sweet! Yeah I had my welder at 5 out of 7 on the voltage, and wanted to burn in a little more after the first bead so i just bumped the wirespeed down and moved slower. The welder is rated to do 3/8" so I probably can still go up one more notch and burn in better.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestAre you saying its best to weld from both ends towards a center point whenever possible to avoid the crater being on the end?Do you hold the puddle at the end a little extra to fill the crater when you reach the end?
Reply:Originally Posted by DanNext time you practice a  horizontal T joint on 1/4" , along with eliminating the cursive "e" , turn the unit up to tap #7. Also, I see you're running an .035 wire. For the output current range that the Handler 187 covers,  you'll actually get a higher energy arc (higher current density) from an .030 wire. Meaning you can get a deeper penetrating weld out of the top end from an .030 wire over the .035Assuming your  weld joints between the 3/8" flat stock and 1/4" wall sq tube are going to be a T joint, with my Migmaster 250 or Ironman 230 I'd turn the units up high and go with a single pass. More than likely spray arc with my Migmaster. Anyway with your little 187, I'd go with tap #7 and run three tight passes. By tight passes, I mean keeping any side to side weave down to a minimal.  I wouldn't waste my time beveling the 1/4" wall tube.Instead of setting your weld joint flat on the table, try elevating the end that you are welding towards, so that you are you are welding up a 10º - 15º incline. Doing this,  will help increase penetration a little, because it helps hold the weld puddle back.
Reply:I like the solid 2"X2" shackle mount. I'm sure the tube type is strong enough, but the solid type didn't cost too much ($45). The end of the 2" solid is machined down so that a 7/8" shackle will fit into it. I keep the shackle mount and a couple extra hitch pins, a few shackles, a nice rope with eyes spliced into both ends, and a grade 70 chain in my toolbox so that I have what I need when someone is stuck or just needs to be towed. Also keep a HiLift.. So if I get stuck I can get myself out.Are you going to be selling these?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugI like the solid 2"X2" shackle mount. I'm sure the tube type is strong enough, but the solid type didn't cost too much ($45). The end of the 2" solid is machined down so that a 7/8" shackle will fit into it. I keep the shackle mount and a couple extra hitch pins, a few shackles, a nice rope with eyes spliced into both ends, and a grade 70 chain in my toolbox so that I have what I need when someone is stuck or just needs to be towed. Also keep a HiLift.. So if I get stuck I can get myself out.Are you going to be selling these?
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75if I indeed start producing them to sell/give to my buddies.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPYou're gonna want to be real careful doing that!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPYou're gonna want to be real careful doing that!