Lincoln 120 V or 220 V Perferred Version

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Ok, what do you folks recommend for best application, smoother arc ...etc., the 220V or the 1120V model.Continuous or Tap.Thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by GibanOk, what do you folks recommend for best application, smoother arc ...etc., the 220V or the 1120V model.Continuous or Tap.Thanks
Reply:I would like to make a one time purchase on a welder that can handle any home projects around the house. Perhaps metal thickness less than 1/2". Most weld jobs will probably be around the 1/4" thicknes.I was just curious if a 220V system will provide a smoother arc as compared to a 120V system. I do know that the 220V is need for the higher amperage and also for the thicker metals.Other then the fact that most house hold outlets are wired for 120V 15@, which  IMO needs to be wired for a 20@. I have a 220V setup in the garage and most projects will be built here vice at other sites.Researching Continuous or Taps, I am leaning towards a Tap Version sold at Home Depot just because that's all that is carried their. But if I need to spend the extra, I can find an alternative store to get the continuous version. But I am still confuse on whether to get the tap or continuous model.Thanks again.Last edited by Giban; 08-05-2007 at 07:00 AM.
Reply:I would like to make a one time purchase on a welder that can handle any home projects around the house. Perhaps metal thickness less than 1/2". Most weld jobs will probably be around the 1/4" thicknes.
Reply:Weld a bead on the best setting you can.  Change it by one half volt each way and you will see the different profiles of the bead.  Don't put your self down, if you can run a nice bead, you will see the difference right away.Taps are OK, that is all to me.  I can work with it.  With continuous adjustment, it works with you.110 or 220?.....I recommend get as big as you can.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:1/2 inch steel with a 120V MIG welder?   Even using FCAW, 1/2 inch steel is beyond most 120V wire welders.If you anticipate or can see doing much work with steel material 1/4 inch or thicker, that pretty much is going to call for a 220-240V machine.  Whether stick or wire-feed.Just go to Lincoln's website and look at the specs of some units.  Go to the Miller and ESAB sites as well and see some specs on comparable/competitive machines.  Go to Miller's site and try the on-line weld parameter calculators for SMAW, GMAW, and FCAW.The 120V MIG machines (name brand) are usually good to very-good on sheet metal thickness work.  Trying to weld thicker steel can be done to a certain amount, but you can only stretch their capabilities so far.  And 1/2 inch thick steel is beyond their capabilities.  You would run into duty-cycle limits from running the machine flat-out, you would have to make many-many-many passes, and even then you would most likely still have a cold weld with poor fusion into the base metal.  Yes the -wire- would melt, but the base metal wouldn't really melt much (if at all!)If the taps on the machine (and the machine itself) are generally laid out OK, then taps can be just fine and the weld will be fine as well.  Note that on almost all tapped machines, you do NOT change the tap settings while welding.  You stop the arc, then change the tap setting, then restart the arc and try the weld again.With the continuous control you have a little bit finer voltage control, but it is not absolutely necessary.  One thing about the continuous control models is that they often allow you to change the voltage -while- welding.  If the machine is close enough to you, and you have a third (or fourth!) hand available to reach over to the knob and try and slightly turn it while in the middle of a weld, that is.   A decent machine, good wire or sticks, knowledge and practice will let you make decent welds.  Or at least figure out that your welding ability is the same as your ability to play the piano, bagpipes, or violin.
Reply:If you intend to do 1/4 or more, even with multi-pass, 220 VAC will be your best choice. The 110 won't pepetrate 1/4'" plate with one pass and several may be needed with some pre-heat. Continuous voltage is more versatile than tapped machines, too. Just my HO.Miller Millermatic 252Miller Syncrowave 200Liincoln AC-DC 225Victor O-A Set