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I've been looking for a DIY Manual Can Crusher Design that can do Steel Soup Cans - like Habitant Pea Soup!. Crushing sideways instead of end-to-end looks to require less force. I came across this design but they wanted $$ just for plans from the UK and I'm... cheap. Any idea of how the above might work?I figure it may be a variant of the simple hinge design pictured here.I'd go this route except that I'm getting old (the wife too) and don't want to be bending over and picking cans off the floor. I already have one of those inexpensive alum beer/coke can crushers that squishes cans end-to-end. That's OK for alum cans.I'm not interested in making a stonger version of that 'complicated' design - that's already been done here. What I want to invest my time in... is making a garage wall-mount manual design crusher (no air, no hydraulic, no motor) that can do larger-diameter (say up to 4.5 inch) steel soup cans - squishing them sideways.Seen any good designs? Got any ideas? I'm open to all suggestions and inspirations.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:on the first one, my guess is there is an arm on the outside of the back wall that matches the direction of the arm/handle but shorter. As you rotate the handle up it acts as a cam and pushes the back "wall" in crushing the cans inside.I'm not sure how much easier it is to crush a can side ways vs end to end, the ends are typically thicker on soda cans... unless you're crushing the center of the can first than just folding the ends over. than it's much easier than crushing the can end to end.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:I say do this one. but in metal. lol.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:but in all honesty, why not just make a regular hand style crusher (think end to end crusher) but make it wider to allow you to crush them side to side?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:google also found this.http://download.partstown.com/is-bin...M-1000_spm.pdfHere is a link to the actual sales manual for that crusher.http://www.edlundco.com/pdf/crManual.pdfLast edited by ThorsHammer; 06-24-2013 at 06:44 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:ThorsHammer... OMG! Yeah that Hearing-Bone-Gear Crusher looks like something simple I could whip up in no time! Too bad it has a motor - so that's out. The Google one looks interesting... mite complex looking though. Still, it is different and seems to use that simple 'hinge' principle. Thanks!Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I'm sure you could do the herringbone one with just a crank handle.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Too bad they won't take crushed cans here.I have an idea for using two car tires something like those opposing gears. Should crush em flatGordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:look at this big boy...--------------------------------------------------------------www.becmotors.nlyup, I quit welding.. joined welder anonymous
Reply:a stump and a 2 lb sledge is a multi purpose can crusher - stress reliever?Could improve the sledge a bit by making a wider face for it out of scrap 1/2" plate - like a 4-5" circle cut out..miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by jdchmiela stump and a 2 lb sledge is a multi purpose can crusher - stress reliever?Could improve the sledge a bit by making a wider face for it out of scrap 1/2" plate - like a 4-5" circle cut out..
Reply:I thought this one was pretty good:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=19423The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man" Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:I saw this thread yesterday while eating lunch and it reminded me to do something I'd been wanting to do since we got our 600-ton press here at work. As luck would have it, we were changing molds yesterday, so I got the opportunity to try it. The attached pictures show the result of 500 tons of force on two aluminum cans (I would have done one, but we have a transfer bore right in the middle of the lower platen). It got 'em down to about 0.060". The can on the left found a counterbore in the mold base - you can see the little "bubble" on the right side of it.As for a manual can crusher, I would think something lever or cam operated would keep it simple. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerdidn't read the whole OP did ya?
Reply:Here's a picture of the beast. The platens are 48" wide x 42" deep and the mezzanine is 12' off the ground. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by jdchmielNow I am confused? What did I miss, just the desire for a project? Getting old enough to not want to bend oer and pick up cans off the floor from that other design?
Reply:Thanks guys!That was all very entertaining... but... I'm not much farther ahead. Yeah, my first photos look like a long lever turning a cam - nice way to go... if I had the shape of the cam. Could take a lot of time to mess about otherwise.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:the cam on the first one you posted should be pretty easy to figure out. It's going to be the distance from the pivot point to the outer edge of the crush plate in it's "fully closed" possition. so if you want the can to be 1/4" tall after it is crushed, you set up you crush plate to be vertical when there is a 1/4" between it and the frame. then just measure from where your pivot point is to the back of the crush plate. I would suggest putting a roller of some sort on the end of your cam to help reduce friction.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:As far as a two tire crusher.In PA and upstate NY, I use to see a lot of beer can crushers that had two truck tires and a fan to blow them into the semi-trailer.Fun to watch!
Reply:If you have (or know someone locally that has) as shop press with a pressure/force gauge on it, you could figure out what sort of tonnage you need by crushing some sample cans. Then design your manual crusher based on that (would help you figure out leverage ratios, etc).
Reply:I decided to make a heavy duty version of the Foot-Stomper shown in the 1st post.Guess I will bending over to pick up squashed cans! Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I use a 14 year old son. About all he's good for. Pretty expensive to feed though.The soldering toys pay for the welding toys.Hakko 928 dual iron, 4xHakko 936Madell 850D Hot Air SMT ReworkMiller 252, HTP Invertig 201 AC/DC, and a Hypertherm 45.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VGuess I will bending over to pick up squashed cans!
Reply:Originally Posted by cabletechI use a 14 year old son. About all he's good for. Pretty expensive to feed though.
Reply:OK, so here is the build...The design was based upon a commercially available small tin crusher.I started by welding a passel of 1/8 inch thick plates (4 x 1.5 inches) together to form one big plate.Then I had second thoughts; the 1/8 inch thick plate looked rather flimsy. Then I remembered that I had a bunch of 3/16 inch thick plates that I had used for practice laying weld beads.Heck, why not use those? There are thicker (3/16 inch) and stronger... and just gathering rust.OK, but they are all warped from welding.Ah-Ha... Ill un-warp them... had to use a sledge hammer as my smaller hammers didnt work.I welded a 12 inch long plate to ½ of another plate giving me an 18 inch long plate. I then welded on side plates from the outside to strengthen and serve as guides. I drilled holes for a 3/8 inch diameter hinge rod.Continued on next post...Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-AcetI decided that I had better reinforce the bearing holding the hinge rod.Heres the bottom plate almost done.Heres the top plate, nestled inside the bottom plate. I used 1/16 inch shims to give me proper clearance between the sides of the top and bottom plate. I then tacked the sides onto the top plate.I clamped the top and bottom plates together prior to full welding of the side plates to the top plate.Final weld pass joining the sides to the top plate was made using 5/32 inch 7018 elelctrode (+) at 180 amps. This gave me a thick wide weld bead for added strength.Continued on next post...Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Ok, its time to weld the hinge rod to the top plate.Done.I have to weld the inside as well for extra strength.DoneThere she is all done. She wont win any beauty contests thats for sure!The weld arent pretty but Im not building a bridge.Continued on next post...Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Here are the final rough dimensions.How does it work?OK, heres the first test using a steel soup can.Step on it!Looks FLAT to me!Yep, fairly flat.Continued on next post...Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Oopps... the top plate seems to have bent somewhat! I mean that looks curved to me.The force can be pretty high if you put a can real close to the hinge.Yep, a side view shows a definite curve. Kind of looks like a Bailey Bridge!Maybe I was building a bridge but just didnt know it! Bottom Line: It works!OK, it needs some added rigidity to stop the top plate from warping. I will sledge hammer it flat then... any ideas for how to reinforce the top plate so it is less prone to warp when I step on it? Maybe some 3/8 or ½ inch rod laid along the length and welded? Im open to all suggestions. This was a fun project stick welded all the way with 7018 in 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 inch. Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:I thought you didn't want the step on one?As for the warping I'd run another ridge down the middle, the same height as the sides and then weld in top plates on the whole thing so you don't loose the place for your foot to step. Doing the top plate in two peices allows you to weld it to the center brace as well as the sides.Last edited by ThorsHammer; 07-02-2013 at 12:23 PM.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI thought you didn't want the step on one?As for the warping I'd run another ridge down the middle, the same height as the sides and then weld in top plates on the whole thing so you don't loose the place for your foot to step. Doing the top plate in two peices allows you to weld it to the center brace as well as the sides.
Reply:The 3/8 rod will help a little, but if you box in the section you're making a truss which is MUCH stronger. as for doing it it two sections, it shouldn't be to difficult. just need a spacer stuck in either end to keep it from falling below the top edges of the "risers" (we'll call them) and weld away. pretty simple really. and you don't even need to do a full lenght weld. a 1" stitch every 3-4" would be fine on the center, that way you can alternate on the other half so that your'e not welding over welds for the second plate. Should make it a little easier if you're not used to overlapping welds.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Also, it looks like you're only working with 1/8" plate, so adding the full height to the center of the crush plate and the top box section will also help prevent it from cupping over time.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Nope, I said earlier I was using 3/16 inch plate.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:How much soup do you eat where you can't just toss it in the garbage? Open the other side and squeeze it you weakling I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:"where you can't just toss it in the garbage?"I live in Ottawa, ON, Canada.The City of Ottawa is big into recycling:- Blue Box = all metal (alum, steel, etc.) cans + many plastics (bottles, trays, etc.)- Black Box = all paper (fliers, newspaper, witing paper, envelopes, etc.)- Green Bin = all food, coffee grounds, anything that will compost- Garbage = anything left that is not Blue, Black or Green!Blue Box pick up is every 2-weeks with Black Box on the other week.Green Bin and garbage is every week... but garbage may change to every 2-weeks or user pay per bag. So here Mike - just toss it in the garbage is a big No-No! Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VNope, I said earlier I was using 3/16 inch plate.
Reply:A piece of channel iron should keep it from bending.__________________Miller MM252Lincoln AC Buzz BoxCentury 155Victor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammer....and you don't even need to do a full lenght weld. a 1" stitch every 3-4" would be fine on the center, that way you can alternate on the other half so that your'e not welding over welds for the second plate. Should make it a little easier if you're not used to overlapping welds.
Reply:Originally Posted by chuckholeThanks for the general construction/welding suggestion for doing a split lid box. I like that idea.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott0303A piece of channel iron should keep it from bending.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VThat sounds a good,simple and practical idea - thanks.
Reply:Yep, so sorry... ThorsHammer is not going to see me build your post #3 Herringbone Can Crusher. Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick V"where you can't just toss it in the garbage?"I live in Ottawa, ON, Canada.The City of Ottawa is big into recycling:- Blue Box = all metal (alum, steel, etc.) cans + many plastics (bottles, trays, etc.)- Black Box = all paper (fliers, newspaper, witing paper, envelopes, etc.)- Green Bin = all food, coffee grounds, anything that will compost- Garbage = anything left that is not Blue, Black or Green!Blue Box pick up is every 2-weeks with Black Box on the other week.Green Bin and garbage is every week... but garbage may change to every 2-weeks or user pay per bag. So here Mike - just toss it in the garbage is a big No-No! |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:31:24