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old school lincoln idealarc tig-300/300 tig torch upgrade options

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:31:12 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hi all, brand new here and to tig welding somewhat. Took a class about a month ago and 2 weeks ago bought an old lincoln idealarc tig-300/300. I am not quite sure how old it is but it is solid state. it came with a big air cooled torch and between that and the hose having a twist in it i find it very hard to use. the torch head has a weird angle and i was wondering what options i have to upgrade. I have seen the new flexible head torches and ultraflex hose too, id love to invest in something like that. I know all the newer machines have quick disconnect for all that but my machine predates that, I am assuming the make adapters for all that. The torch i have now is a linde i believe it is a HW-26 or something like that. any ideas guys? also advice about the machine or tig welding in general is welcomethanks all!
Reply:Welcome to the forum,I have found that one single torch is not enough. The next question is how much welding and how much amperage you will be using. I'm assuming your machine is AC/DC? Since I've started welding about a year and a half ago, I have purchased a 26 Profax ridgid, 17 Weld-Tec ridgid, 210A CK Trim Line ridgid and a 300A Weldcraft ridgid all of them are air cooled. The CK Trim-Line is my go to torch for most stuff because it has the same amperage as the 26 but a much smaller body and the Super-Flex hose on it which is really nice. I leave the 17 set up with stubby parts and the 26 has a remote that stays on it. The big Weldcraft comes out very rarely because it is like holding a baseball bat. I think you would benefit from a CK TL210 with flex head and Super-Flex cables if a light and flexible torch is what you are looking for. What I would do is make a short pigtail comming out of your machine that has an eye connector (if your machine has a threaded stud on it) on one end and a dinse or lenco connection on the other end. This would make it real easy to switch torches and a stinger if you want to stick weld with it.If you are going to use this machine constantly or for a lot of aluminum then you will want to invest in a water cooled system. Mostly all of the water cooled torches have a body that is one step smaller than the same amperage air cooled torches. Ex. a 200A water cooled torch will have approximately a 17 sized body. The cooler does add an expense and having all water coled torches kind of limits you if you have other machines to run a tig torch on.TOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:yes my machine is ac/dc, right now i am just using it to learn and will be sticking with a air cooled torch, honestly im not exactly sure of all the terminology of what you call everything on the machine so i will post some pictures when i get a chance. right now i have it set up like this, the stick electrode on the inside of the lug, then the PO made and extension nut/bolt to put the gas block thing on. In the future id like to upgrade to water cooled but i would go the route of a home made water cooler with circulation pump. as for the amperage i am using this machine has 5 heat ranges i haven't had it above the middle due the power i have available to me currently. The PO did make up a chart showing approx amperage's for each range and setting. I dont think ive been above 120-130 amps but so far ive just played with it. i plan on building a ladder rack for my truck this weekend and ill tig it just for practice.Also on a side note, this is the tig-300/300 that is referred to a round top
Reply:Ok, it sounds like you have a gas block so you can use a 1pc tig torch like the one in Tozzi's post pic#3 http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...-Welder-PeopleThe class you attended was that for tig or another process? I am far from an expert but the most important things are,-CLEAN YOUR MATERIAL! You are probably aware of this but it never hurts to bring it up.-If you dip the tungsten IMMEDIATELY cut the ball end off and regrind it.-If you are using a gas valve torch don't forget to turn the gas on.-A gas lense setup might help because you can have more tungsten stickout to see the weld better.   Read this- http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-GTAW-welding/Also take a look at some of the welds made by the experts on this forum and just keep practicing.Last edited by Chris T.; 03-26-2014 at 02:38 PM.Reason: Don't know why there is a space in the middle of my post?TOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:the class i took was a 1 day tig class, just going over the basics. my cousin is going to school for welding right now and went to the tig class with me to get a jump start on tig, that is what he wants to do, he is stuck on stick and mig still.yes it is some sort of gas block, the argon goes into the welding then out and into the gas block. and yes if i upgrade torches i will be getting a gas lense, i figured wait to upgrade anything til i get a torch i plan on using for everything so i am all setup. I have also been eying those pyrex cups too lol
Reply:i am looking at the CK TL210 right now and the have ones with and without a gas valve? why is there a as valve in the torch? what purpose does this serve?
Reply:Originally Posted by zipposrulei am looking at the CK TL210 right now and the have ones with and without a gas valve? why is there a as valve in the torch? what purpose does this serve?
Reply:ahhh! that makes sense, good to know! so i wont need one with a gas valve because i have a gas solenoid that turns on the gas when i hit the pedal.
Reply:The 26 series, 17 series and that CK torch, as well as the 18 series water cooled torches, all use the same parts. Other torches like the 9 series air cooled or 20 series water cooled torches use different parts. It makes life simpler if you try sticking to torches that all use the same parts. Other wise you need different cups, collets, collet holders and gas lenses for each style torch, in each tungsten size you use.Down side of the 26/17 style torches is that they are quite bulky and large. The 9 series style torches by CK like the CK 130 in flex lock, flexible head or rigid torch have a duty cycle rating that's actually better than many 17 series torches. The CK 130 is rated at 130 amps AC/DC @ 100 % duty cycle while standard 17 style torches like the Weldcraft ones are only rated to 125 amps AC @ 60% and 150 amps DC @ 60%. The torch is much smaller and lighter weight vs the bigger aircooled units. Something to think about if you usually stay at 150 amps or less.I deal with my 17 series torch for 2 reasons. #1 because it's what the machines came with, and #2 because the tech school uses 17's on the XMT's and 18's on the Syncrowave 250's, so I can get parts easily if I want. However as soon as I get the cash, I'll pick up a CK 130 for my Maxstar 200 and convert my Syncrowave 200 over to a water cooled 20 style torch, most likely from CK as well. I won't loose anything except size over my existing air cooled torches, and I'll gain when I go to the water cooled torch eventually..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:the bulky size is the only thing i dont like about the 26 torch i have now, that and the bulky not very flexible, also a flex head would make the world of difference in the future. i just welded some threaded rod to some plates to make my own bolts (needed long ones lol) and i will say it was tricky but i think i did a pretty good job
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