Chop Saw Upgrade

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Hey guys, I am looking to get your thoughts on abrasive vs cold cut chops saws.  I was thinking about getting anew saw.  I am leaning towards a cold cut.  I am usually a Milwaukee guys but have heard the the dewalt is the better choice.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.    Grant
Reply:I think your a little confused when asking about a cold cut saw.  Sounds like you want like a cabride equiped chop saw not a cold saw.  But here are two links to what I think your want and what you asking about. If your talking about carbide blade saws Evolution is really the hard hitter.  http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk...ion_steel.htmlIf your talking about cold cut saws baileigh is the really hard hitterhttp://www.bii1.com/saws/cold-saws/manual/Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Can't use a bandsaw?1981 Lincoln SA 200Miller Trailblazer 302gMiller 211 Mig Welder w/ AutosetI'm learning to stick metal together
Reply:Granted, I'm a hobbyist.But I have the Milwaukee 6190-20 and couldn't live without it.  I don't think I've used my abrasive saw since I got it.  The terms 'cold saw' and 'dry cut saw' have become less precise in common usage, but the bottom line is this thing cuts clean, fast and straight all day long.  No clean up needed and it's got a smaller footprint than a band saw.  (Both have their uses -- don't get me wrong).  I use Freud Diablo blades which Cripe Distributing still has for $40.  The Milwaukee blades are not great, I've heard. ( I got my Milwaukee for $320 because it didn't come with a blade.)I have cut A LOT of steel (my front yard wrought iron fence, for starters).  I'm still on my first freakin' blade with the thing.Last edited by Jack Olsen; 03-02-2011 at 11:10 AM.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Your right Xtreme, I am talking about a carbide blade cutoff saw.  I saw the evolution on the DIY network the other night.  It looked real good.  Like the abiltiy to cut anything with the single blade.  I didn't like the fact I have a had a hard time finding one to look at.  Thanks for the review Jack, I'll keep in  mind that you are not using the Milwaukee blade.  $40 for a blade is not too crazy it it really does outperform the abrasive.    Grant
Reply:I have 2 evolution 7" hand saws, 1 mag drill and 1 10" beveling miter saw.   They are great saws.  I did order my beveling saw with a metal only blade.  The multi blade won't last long in steel, its more of a wood with nails blade. The evolution blade blades seem to last forever.  I have cut 1" plate with my hand saws and 3" solid bar stock with the miter saw.  Not the fastest way, but will still get it done.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Man, I have a horrible experience with the steel cutting blades. I bought one of the Lenox blades for about 90 bucks. It cut through mild steel pipe great. I decided to try to cut through some aluminum fuel rail extrusion and it did great. Then I went to do steel again and it started NOT cutting like crap. Basically, it just quit cutting all together. I don't know if the aluminum messed it up (don't know how it would) or if the Lenox blades just suck. But mine lasted MAYBE 10 cuts max. And that is INCLUDING the aluminum I tried. Needless to say, I am reluctant to drop any more money on the steel cutting blades.It really sucks too, cause I loved the first few cuts and how precise I could get them.
Reply:Originally Posted by DiabolicZMan, I have a horrible experience with the steel cutting blades. I bought one of the Lenox blades for about 90 bucks. It cut through mild steel pipe great. I decided to try to cut through some aluminum fuel rail extrusion and it did great. Then I went to do steel again and it started NOT cutting like crap. Basically, it just quit cutting all together. I don't know if the aluminum messed it up (don't know how it would) or if the Lenox blades just suck. But mine lasted MAYBE 10 cuts max. And that is INCLUDING the aluminum I tried. Needless to say, I am reluctant to drop any more money on the steel cutting blades.It really sucks too, cause I loved the first few cuts and how precise I could get them.
Reply:Great reviews Xtreme and JBM, it looks like I should be looking into the Evolution Steel Max.  Did you both order them right from Evoltuion?  I can't seem to find a retailer here in Canada.  If you don't mind me asking JBM what was the cost of your Steel Max with the blade?    Thanks guys...    Grant
Reply:Originally Posted by jbmprodssteel blades are for steel. if you want to cut aluminum you use an aluminum blade. evolution makes a combo blade but as already stated it has a short life. like already mentioned i retired my abrasives and pretty much my band saw.....jim
Reply:Originally Posted by GLWOOD006Great reviews Xtreme and JBM, it looks like I should be looking into the Evolution Steel Max.  Did you both order them right from Evoltuion?  I can't seem to find a retailer here in Canada.  If you don't mind me asking JBM what was the cost of your Steel Max with the blade?    Thanks guys...    Grant
Reply:I have the milwaukee ctc saw and it's pretty good, if i had it to do over, I'd get the 12" makita ctc saw. The 12" blades cut much smoother than the 14 though the capacity is obviously smaller. the makita also has the best base and clamp. I also recomend the tenryu stabilizer blades. If this is going to be your only saw I'd recomend an abrasive saw, you can't cut everthing with the ctc saw.P.S. the hot chips from the ctc saws suck, they burn like crazy when they hit bare skin, and stick lick velcro.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:I use the same blades in the 7-1/4" size with a regular circular saw, and it works well (the 7-1/4" ones are rated for more RPMs).  On the cheap side of the spectrum, I'm pretty sure Northern Tools now has a low-RPM saw like these that's no doubt made in China.  But if the name-brand ones are out of reach, it might do.To give you an idea of how clean these cut, compared to abrasive blades, here's a video of me testing the blade the first time on a sheet of 3/16" steel;Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenI use the same blades in the 7-1/4" size with a regular circular saw, and it works well (the 7-1/4" ones are rated for more RPMs).  On the cheap side of the spectrum, I'm pretty sure Northern Tools now has a low-RPM saw like these that's no doubt made in China.  But if the name-brand ones are out of reach, it might do.To give you an idea of how clean these cut, compared to abrasive blades, here's a video of me testing the blade the first time on a sheet of 3/16" steel;
Reply:both harbor fart and northern tool show  such a saw for $99hf states 3500  rpm. northern tool does not mention rpm..jack, is 3500 ok for the freud blade you are happy with?i see freud  ferrous blades at 3900 rpm, 5000 rpm, none is rated formore that 3/8 thick steel.....they seem to be intended for use in regular  woodcutting saws..Last edited by weldbead; 03-04-2011 at 08:11 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadboth harbor fart and northern tool show  such a saw for $99hf states 3500  rpm. northern tool does not mention rpm..jack, is 3500 ok for the freud blade you are happy with?i see freud  ferrous blades at 3900 rpm, 5000 rpm, none is rated formore that 3/8 thick steel.....they seem to be intended for use in regular  woodcutting saws..
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadboth harbor fart and northern tool show  such a saw for $99hf states 3500  rpm. northern tool does not mention rpm..jack, is 3500 ok for the freud blade you are happy with?i see freud  ferrous blades at 3900 rpm, 5000 rpm, none is rated formore that 3/8 thick steel.....they seem to be intended for use in regular  woodcutting saws..
Reply:You must be psychic Jack! I was trying to remember who mentioned they used a wood circ. saw for cutting plate, and here you are! Bravo! Thanks for the video. I'm making a box brake and need to cut the finger slots and was thinking of your technique. Just so I'm crystal on it, what is the exact blade you are using and what is the rpm of your DeWalt circ. saw? I may go get a cheapy, thrift store saw so I don't risk my nice Porter Cable. My cuts would be in 1/2" plate. Have you tried 1/2" plate?Thanks very much for the info Jack!BertQUOTE=Jack Olsen;481492]I use the same blades in the 7-1/4" size with a regular circular saw, and it works well (the 7-1/4" ones are rated for more RPMs).  On the cheap side of the spectrum, I'm pretty sure Northern Tools now has a low-RPM saw like these that's no doubt made in China.  But if the name-brand ones are out of reach, it might do.To give you an idea of how clean these cut, compared to abrasive blades, here's a video of me testing the blade the first time on a sheet of 3/16" steel;[/QUOTE]200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by DiabolicZMan, I have a horrible experience with the steel cutting blades. I bought one of the Lenox blades for about 90 bucks. It cut through mild steel pipe great. I decided to try to cut through some aluminum fuel rail extrusion and it did great. Then I went to do steel again and it started NOT cutting... Basically, it just quit cutting all together. ...
Reply:Bert, the saw I use for steel is the bare-bones Harbor Freight model.  It's a 5000-rpm saw.  The Freud Diablo blade is the 48-tooth model (D0748F), which is rated for 5800 rpm, but says it's only for 1/8" or thinner steel.  I know of guys cutting 3/4" steel with this blade and saying it worked well.  Freud also makes a 38-tooth blade, which they say is for 1/8"-3/8" steel.  It's also good to 5800 rpm and might be even better for 1/2" plate.It used to be that Cripe Distributing had these for $20.  But now they're $37-$42 at most places, which is a shame.  I recently got one for a buck (new) on Ebay.  But you've got to be patient for that sort of thing.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Many thanks Jack!!!! I saw some at HD the other day. I'm also going to check my portable table saw for it's RPM. If it's around 5k, might work quite nicely.  Originally Posted by Jack OlsenBert, the saw I use for steel is the bare-bones Harbor Freight model.  It's a 5000-rpm saw.  The Freud Diablo blade is the 48-tooth model (D0748F), which is rated for 5800 rpm, but says it's only for 1/8" or thinner steel.  I know of guys cutting 3/4" steel with this blade and saying it worked well.  Freud also makes a 38-tooth blade, which they say is for 1/8"-3/8" steel.  It's also good to 5800 rpm and might be even better for 1/2" plate.It used to be that Cripe Distributing had these for $20.  But now they're $37-$42 at most places, which is a shame.  I recently got one for a buck (new) on Ebay.  But you've got to be patient for that sort of thing.
Reply:Just looking at the DIY pipe beveler thread, and was thinking about this thread. Why not put the variable speed foot pedal on an abrasive metal chop saw? Slow down the rpm to work with a dry cut blade. Maybe the torque would poop-out? I suppose one could put the 71/4 Freud blade in a abrasive saw as it would be with in the rpm. Not much cut capacity though. Just fyi, the $ on the nice, d-handle, Milwaukee dry cut saw around here is $700+12% tax. A blade is $220+12%. Ouch!200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:I tried it with my 10" miter saw.  It pooped out.  No torque, the blade spins slow until it hits the material, then stops dead.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:They lower the speed by using gears. That increases the torque and horsepower of the saw. Your idea would reduce the torque and the blade would not be able to cut the metal.http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-...pr_product_topGet this saw, you won't be disappointed.
Reply:I use the Milwaukee dry cut saw that Jack is using and like him I would not trade it. Just be sure that you have the work clamped securely. In my humble opinion it is a better saw than the Dewalt. The Makita is also a quality saw but 12 inch.Originally Posted by A/C Guyhttp://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-...pr_product_topGet this saw, you won't be disappointed.
Reply:i have a Milwaukee abrasive chop saw  and  love it but after reading this post i wonder could you put a cardide blade on it insted of abrasive or to say my Milwaukee hand circular saw by chance. if someone already mentioned it i must have missed it sorry. but would the RPMs on these machines be able to cut using the carbide blades for metal. someone once told me that if you flip the blade backwards it would be good for exspanded metal but note sure about that one. just wondering. not trying to hi jack the post just somethng that came to mind just thinkin safty on this subjectIf you like my stuff you can find me on Facebook.  https://www.facebook.com/theangryanv...ngryanvilforge
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderI would.....they weren't savvy enough to put a horizontal d-handle on it. Big difference.