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Getting ready to build a shop and need some ideas for the material storage racks so those of you that have them, please post some pics.ThanksGraysOrnamentalIron.com
Reply:Here's one set I have in the garage... pretty crappy photo, but it gets the point across.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:What kind of material are you storing?
Reply:Originally Posted by iwreckalotWhat kind of material are you storing?
Reply:Nice!
Reply:Originally Posted by Robert HallHere's one set I have in the garage... pretty crappy photo, but it gets the point across.
Reply:This is what I have in my shop. I have my 2' to 10' stock stored vertically. If you look closely at the top left of the pic, you can see the brackets on the posts for the 10' to 20' lengths.My 2' and shorter stock is in this shelving unit, and the coffee can rack above for those small pieces that I need so often and are a bear to store and sort thru any other way. I hate to cut off small lengths from the longer stuff if I don't have to.
Reply:This first pic is of my pallet rack I use for sheet storage.Number two is my 'shorts' 2feet and underThe third is my rack for horizontal storage of long and full lengths.The last photo is of short aluminum and steel stock for machining. Everything is organized under the label of "miscellaneous". Attached Images:
Reply:Originally Posted by rjacobsLooks like something I might need to build for my new garage.Is that all 2x2x1/8 square? then what a 1/4" gusset? Any close up pics or dimensions?
Reply:gussets should never go in the in the middle of a tube. Gussets should transfer the force in the same plane. Weld them flush with the outside wall of the tube you are trying to support and flush with the outside wall of the supporting tube. Else it takes all your force and concentrates it on the weakest point of that square tube ... can opener style.AWS CWI xxxx21711968 SA200 Originally Posted by WelderMike I hate being bipolar, It's awesome.
Reply:Thanks for the helpful hint, AFFENDE. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Originally Posted by AFFENDEgussets should never go in the in the middle of a tube. Gussets should transfer the force in the same plane. Weld them flush with the outside wall of the tube you are trying to support and flush with the outside wall of the supporting tube. Else it takes all your force and concentrates it on the weakest point of that square tube ... can opener style.
Reply:Originally Posted by wnywelderI bet what RobertHall has there is sufficient for the application, but I agree with you. A 2" square tube with 45 degree ends would have been a stronger gusset. Not trying to nitpick, and I definitely understand how those quick and dirty projects go.
Reply:Since I have never given in consideration I appreciate the suggestion. I can easily see where in other areas that would be a problem. It was a quick and dirty job, the wet was coming and I had to get the steel off the floor. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Originally Posted by wnywelderI bet what RobertHall has there is sufficient for the application, but I agree with you. A 2" square tube with 45 degree ends would have been a stronger gusset. Not trying to nitpick, and I definitely understand how those quick and dirty projects go.
Reply:Hey Rob, I think your racks are primo man. I'm looking forward to building some just like that when the time comes but......the thing that offends me is the cord coming out of the porcelain keyless light fixture on the ceiling! DanI hope that when i'm dead and gone, people will remember me and think; "Boy, that guy sure owed me a lot of money!"
Reply:You wish it was porcelain. bwahahahahahahaRegards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Alright I'll play. My advice: OVERBUILD IT!!! Almost guaranteed a year or two down the road you'll be using it for waaaaaay more than you originally anticipated. But here's my setup. Bottom and top shelves have little welded in dividers for keeping flat stock and bar stock separate. I've got way more variety on this rack than I thought I would when I originally built it. Everything from 1/8" x 1" flat stock, to 4x4 aluminum tubing, to 31T gear stock! I've got a small cart out of the picture that holds short lengths of some of the more "exotic" materials. Otherwise if it's less than 24", goes right in the scrap bin. It's not worth my time, nor the space it takes up to save a $1.50 piece of tubing.Last edited by Econdron; 08-06-2015 at 12:33 PM.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Ok, I wanna say it before others. You are wasting a lot of floor space. You knew one of us a$$holes would have to say it. Posting pictures sometime have a mind of their own !
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Ok, I wanna say it before others. You are wasting a lot of floor space. You knew one of us a$$holes would have to say it. Posting pictures sometime have a mind of their own !
Reply:It bugs the he11 out of me too, I don't know why the software cant set them straight. I have to upload them to google plus then save them then they finally stand up straight. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Yeah the mill sure is inconvenient to use mounted to the wall like that! Lol I was going to ask... How do you get the pictures not turned on their side??John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronYeah the mill sure is inconvenient to use mounted to the wall like that! Lol I was going to ask... How do you get the pictures not turned on their side??
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronYeah the mill sure is inconvenient to use mounted to the wall like that! Lol I was going to ask... How do you get the pictures not turned on their side??
Reply:Mine are very simple - scrap angle welded to 1x2 rectangle tubing.They are welded at a 90 degree angle and then leaned against the wall so the angle iron gets a little slant to it.I used .22 power nailer to pin them to the floor.The upper ones hold full length pieces and have support in the left side of the blaster and lathe (not shown in the pic).I had to string line them and trim the bottoms to make it straight and level, my floor is crooked and has dips and humps of about 2" total.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveMine are very simple - scrap angle welded to 1x2 rectangle tubing.They are welded at a 90 degree angle and then leaned against the wall so the angle iron gets a little slant to it.I used .22 power nailer to pin them to the floor.The upper ones hold full length pieces and have support in the left side of the blaster and lathe (not shown in the pic).I had to string line them and trim the bottoms to make it straight and level, my floor is crooked and has dips and humps of about 2" total.Attachment 1179841Attachment 1179851
Reply:I struggle with this all the time! Subscribing for ideas.I really like Lis2323's setup for the small stock and coffee can idea!12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Originally Posted by Lis2323Your design is similar to mine Dave in that you didn't use vertical 'end caps ' on your angle irons. I would hate having to lift long heavy stock over them every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronI know it's convenient not to have the vertical end caps, but I strongly discourage you from leaving them open. Convenience should never compromise safety.
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronAlright I'll play. My advice: OVERBUILD IT!!! Almost guaranteed a year or two down the road you'll be using it for waaaaaay more than you originally anticipated. But here's my setup. Bottom and top shelves have little welded in dividers for keeping flat stock and bar stock separate. I've got way more variety on this rack than I thought I would when I originally built it. Everything from 1/8" x 1" flat stock, to 4x4 aluminum tubing, to 31T gear stock! Attachment 1179361Attachment 1179371Attachment 1179381I've got a small cart out of the picture that holds short lengths of some of the more "exotic" materials. Otherwise if it's less than 24", goes right in the scrap bin. It's not worth my time, nor the space it takes up to save a $1.50 piece of tubing.
Reply:I am of the same mind when it comes to shorts. I end up going through the pieces a couple times a year to pitch them out as my employee likes to save everything. I had a handful of left over 6" weld test pipe pups about a foot long. I tacked those together, as well as some pieces 3' long and tacked those behind the short ones. It stand vertically, seems pretty stable, was cheap and fast! It makes a very nice rack, separates out flat bar, round bar, angles, etc. i also have a rack similar to the others, I made it out of tube, 2" I think. I am considering remaking it, as my tube is bolted to the wall. I would like the tube foot to go all the way to the floor. I initially made it when I was just a hobby guy, so it only needed to hold a small amount of steel.
Reply:Originally Posted by Lis2323Your design is similar to mine Dave in that you didn't use vertical 'end caps ' on your angle irons. I would hate having to lift long heavy stock over them every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI've considered putting short ones on (couple inches) so I can "hook" an end and swing the piece up.
Reply:Originally Posted by Lis2323Always nice if you can end up swinging it with a good hooker.
Reply:My first rack was just some 2" tubing welded to 4"X .25" flat bar screwed into the studs. It held way more than I was comfortable with. I decided to make a decent free standing adjustable rack. I've only got 2 levels of storage at the moment because I got busy with work before I could finish the rest. I went ahead and painted it safety blue so it would look good for awhile. The arms have about a 5 degree slant so material doesn't slide off.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:I think you should disregard any advice given so far and make it big, bulky, in the way, and on top of casters that aren't heavy duty enough so they can get flat spots : )Disregard garage emptiness. Pics taken during a move.
Reply:As with the poster above mine, I made sure the arms were angled slightly upward. Also, I did screw up with my casters, but if you have the money or the access to good casters you should definitely make it roll, if possible. My idea was that the bulky-ness of this thing would be reduced by my ability to roll it back and forth somewhat easily. I don't know what others think, maybe it's a lost cause. Maybe you really need one of those triangle rails and matching wheels that manufacturing shops have. And we all know how ridiculous that would be in a residential garage. All my casters are swivel and I have to kick them all in the direction I want to go before I try to roll. I'm not sure if this is because my casters suck or because this is just how it is going to be.Anyway, I need to get mine to roll OR if that isn't possible, sell this one and then build one that has a narrow profile against a wall like everyone else did. I'd still use that basket design and the expanded metal between the arms. Those are great for flat, angle, etc that are less than the span of the arms, but aren't small. My drill press is on wheels, I want to put my welding table on wheels. Maybe if everything is on wheels besides the metal then you'll be able to function fairly well in a residential garage. Just thinking out loud.Cheers, |
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