Horse trailer to flat bed.

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Sometime in the near future I am getting given to me a HUGE, 35' long, 4 horse, with tack room, 5th wheel trailer. Since I have never met a horse that I get along with, I have no use for a horse trailer. But I DO have a use for a double axle, welding trailer. It has been setting on blocks for several years being used for storage. I know the top and sides and doors are starting to rot out. But the frame and axles seem to be in good shape. So right now my plan is:Remove sides and top.Whack off the 5th wheel and about 10' of the front.Add 2" ball tongue.Replace any damage on floor.Rewire. Make a few trips to scrap yard to ditch junk sheet metal.Load welder, tanks, toolboxes, air compressor onto trailer.Rejoice and actually USE trailer, unlike Steve. So, wadda yall think? Stupid Idea?If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Only major issue I see is that most of the horse trailers I've seen, the sides form part of the structure of the trailer. The walls act like a truss and add "frame" support. Cut all that off and you removed a fairly large portion of the structural support of the trailer. I had a buddy who managed to get a "cheap" 2 horse trailer in poor shape. He planned to do exactly what you are thinking about. However as soon as the rickety sides were gone, it was pretty clear the trailer was no longer structurally sound even with the floor boards replaced. In the end he simply scrapped the whole thing, as by the time he replaced the tires and rebuilt the brakes, he was into it more than simply getting new axles would have cost him..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOnly major issue I see is that most of the horse trailers I've seen, the sides form part of the structure of the trailer. The walls act like a truss and add "frame" support. Cut all that off and you removed a fairly large portion of the structural support of the trailer. I had a buddy who managed to get a "cheap" 2 horse trailer in poor shape. He planned to do exactly what you are thinking about. However as soon as the rickety sides were gone, it was pretty clear the trailer was no longer structurally sound even with the floor boards replaced. In the end he simply scrapped the whole thing, as by the time he replaced the tires and rebuilt the brakes, he was into it more than simply getting new axles would have cost him.
Reply:With things like this it's really tough not seeing what's there to work with. One advantage you have is that the original trailer was a 5th wheel, and therefore probably a lot stronger underneath than say a typical 2 axle tow behind. Chances are you may have at least some decent steel framing underneath depending on how it was built. Tough to tell sight unseen. If used for moderate loads, say under 7K, you might not have to make too many radical changes, but some sort of side "truss" certainly wouldn't hurt.Don't forget when you whack off the front of the trailer you'll change the load distribution and may have to shift the axles as well..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Maybe half it and keep it inclosed add a side door. Sure would protect the welder and the rest of the tools, loads of storage at hand. Out of sight out of mind so the thieves that walk this planet will not be eyeballing your rig. Do not know what you are pulling it with, but the 5th wheel might work in your favor, think rolling machine shop.Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Reply:Well Larp, like Doug says, the frame/structure would probably need reinforcing; but out could be done. I see more value in repairing/restoring as a stock trailer is worth more than a flatbed. At least around here a comparably sized stock trailer is worth $1k to 1.5k more.Sent from my XT907 using TapatalkLincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWWith things like this it's really tough not seeing what's there to work with. One advantage you have is that the original trailer was a 5th wheel, and therefore probably a lot stronger underneath than say a typical 2 axle tow behind. Chances are you may have at least some decent steel framing underneath depending on how it was built. Tough to tell sight unseen. If used for moderate loads, say under 7K, you might not have to make too many radical changes, but some sort of side "truss" certainly wouldn't hurt.Don't forget when you whack off the front of the trailer you'll change the load distribution and may have to shift the axles as well.
Reply:I saw one at the Fleamarket hauling "Treasure" recently. He cut the standing posts off about 2 feet up and tied them to the 5th wheel via angle iron and a piece angled up to the top of the 5th wheel frame. I wished I had a camera as I know how much you guys enjoy picking apart poorly built swayback trailers!Anyways, I'm sure I had mentioned this before but I told my neighbors exactly the same thing DSW said, the body is the frame. He cut it anyways and sure enough it little went to pieces! He scrapped almost all of it (sold axles?), then bought a decent BobCat Trailer which was his original objective anyways!
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadGood point. I cant recall exactly how this one is made. Seems like I remember a "pan" about 12" around the bottom of the sides. Perhaps I can leave that much of it as a railing, and tie all four sides together. I have no problem leaving a rail all the way around as this is going to be a dedicated weld trailer. Once I get all the stuff on it I'll be damned if I take it off to haul a ATV or something.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Well, Larp. Considering I don't actually USE my trailer, I can't really give you any advice on yours..... Of course, as popular as trailer threads are here, I wouldn't be taking any close up shots of anything, even if its perfect
Reply:Originally Posted by larpheadWould'nt ya know it. My dang camera just broke...
Reply:Originally Posted by pin2hotDid you try fixing it with a hammer?  Or is it an electrical problem?   Sorry, couldn't resist.
Reply:2 inch ball???Why not 2-5/16?
Reply:Originally Posted by TIGguy2 inch ball???Why not 2-5/16?
Reply:It's been mentioned already, but I've never seen a stock trailer with a frame.  +1 on the 2-5/16" ball.My name's not Jim....
Reply:For what you're wanting to do, you'd be miles ahead just doing a repair to the rust on the trailer and selling it and buying a trailer that's already closer to what you want.  Like others have said, there isn't a frame on these like other trailers.  Most of your structural integrity comes from it being a box, if you want to cut the sides off be prepared to spend some money beefing it up to be useable.  The outside of stock trailers is a angle iron box, and the cross members are usually only angle iron as well.  I do a lot of work for the trailer sales place in town.  Basically when they take a trailer in on trade, they have me weld the cracks, I slap a patch over any rust areas and they sell it. If it needs new floor boards they change them, but they don't ever paint it, just so it's useable.  He says paint never adds any value to these used trailers.  For as cheap as car trailers are these days, and what you're talking about wanting to do with this trailer, flipping it and buying what you need would be better.