Angle iron - 45 degree or notch?

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Hey guys,I'm a very new to this, and although I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night I don't call myself a welder.  I'm just a guy tinkering around trying to practice and pick up a few tips along the way.I have about a 100 feet of 1-inch x 3/16" angle iron laying around my dad's house that was left over from a construction job.  Anyway, I have started tinkering around with my Hobart Handler and want to know what you pro's think.When joining angle iron at 45 degree corners, should I...- notch and cope the two pieces, or- cut at 45 degree angles?Personally I like the look of 45 degree corners rather that the notch and cope method because I grew up as a carpenter and a 45 degree miter cut comes naturally to me. But is there a "correct" way to do this? What do they teach in welding school? Is one way stronger that the other?Thanks for the help
Reply:i have always used 45 cuts. just bevel the butt, and flatten your outside corners so they can be filled up with weld, and you'll end up with a nice radiused corner that after a little practice will look "factory"with a little more practice,  you can learn to use your bandsaw to have the corners stay flat while you make your miter cut. saves some grind timebosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:I think as for as strength wise, the coped corners have the edge over the mitered corners, but not sure by exactly how much. Astheticaly though the mitered may look better. Whatcha thinkin bout making? That may determine the corner joints you want/need to make.
Reply:I've done both ways but do tend to like the look of coped corners over mitered.You can also notch a 90 in the flat leg and just bend the upright leg to form a non-weld outside corner although it may be a little harder to get/maintain exact length/width dimensions with that method.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:@ FryeTex - recommend you try both approaches and see what suits you.  IRT which method has the 'edge' on strength, you're splitting hairs.  Personally, always use the coped corners because of the resultant 'attention to detail' on client projects.  Both styles are cool bro, just give 'em both a spin. "Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:I've done both ways but do tend to like the look of coped corners over mitered.
Reply:I've always done mitered corners on smaller stuff as it is just faster but notch it on the thicker and heavier just because I think it is stronger.
Reply:I'm only building a rack to fit on the back of a lawnmower.Last edited by FyreTex; 08-16-2015 at 04:02 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by FyreTexI'm only building a rack to fit on the back of a lawnmower.
Reply:Here's a sketch of the rack.
Reply:Originally Posted by FyreTexI'm only building a rack to fit on the back of a lawnmower.
Reply:Paint it up real good then put wood inside to make the bed and sides. Thought about making metal sides, but the only thing going in it will be a few gardening tools, etc. Nothing over 25 lbs.
Reply:I prefer mitered corners, with a cabinet corner fit-up (filling the outside corner with weld). I subtract the material thickness when cutting the angle iron.For example...if I wanted to make a 12" x 12" O.D. frame out of 1/4" thick angle, I would cut each piece 11.5" long. When fit together, it would come out to be 12".Like this...Rich
Reply:Originally Posted by FyreTexHere's a sketch of the rack.
Reply:Looks similar to the stack of shelves I made for my Millermatic 200 out of bedframe angle.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauWith this design, think about adding cross braces from the top of the angled support to the bottom of the opposite angled support. Cross braced in an X pattern to offset side to side movement that will occur when to mower is rocking along over the lawn. Also you can add angle iron uprights in the corners to attach the wooden sides to. Connect them with additional framing around the top between the uprights.
Reply:different angle.  Remember, this is going on the back of a riding lawnmower. It won't be holding more than 25-50 lbs.
Reply:The coped corners are stronger. The coped corners are easier to keep square also when welding.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by FyreTexSorry, it was just a quick mock up to illustrate the use of angle iron.  Here's my finished design. I'll bolt the rack to the riding lawnmower frame instead of welding so that I can remove it when necessary.Attachment 1188401
Reply:It depends what it's on, but if I can get away with mitering them that's what I do. I find it faster to miter them on the bandsaw then notch them.My "collection":Homemade Stick WelderVictor O/A TorchAC 225Ideal Arc 250HF 90 Amp Flux CoreHF Mig 170Solar 2020 Plasma CutterPower i-Mig 140EHarris O/A torchHF Dual Mig 131140STAlpha Tig 200x
Reply:Originally Posted by FyreTexdifferent angle.  Remember, this is going on the back of a riding lawnmower. It won't be holding more than 25-50 lbs.
Reply:Originally Posted by Iain PIt depends what it's on, but if I can get away with mitering them that's what I do. I find it faster to miter them on the bandsaw then notch them.
Reply:@Bistineau   Thanks for the suggestions. I will get in my drafting program and mock up the changes you suggest and see how they work.  Let me say this upfront. I'm on here to learn, and as long as someone is giving constructive criticism I AM NOT OFFENDED.  Because my dad drives so slow on his lawnmower, I never thought about dynamic forces.  Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauI still say move the upper ends of your angled support braces out to the frame of the bed for better support, so all the weight is not carried by the last 6" of the 1"x3/16 angle on each end where you have it now. Then add the X bracing between them as previously covered. Otherwise you will be welding up the cracked sheet metal where it mounts and possibly trying to reinforce it later on. A little overbuild now will pay off later in the long run. I have not heard of anyone complain about something built TOO STRONG.
Reply:On your center cross brace you can cope out a notch, so the top of that angle iron piece is flush with the rest of the square top frame, instead of being resessed down by 3/16".I really think you all are overthinking the extra bracing.  The angle is 3/16" thick, which is pretty beefy for 1" angle.  Assuming the wood floor is actually attached to the frame and not just laying in it, it will provide a huge increase in rigidity and will also help transfer load placed beyond the angled braces back to the triangulated area.The design looks just fine the way it is, to me.  Cope or miter the angles, whatever floats your boat.Last edited by tbone550; 08-17-2015 at 06:02 PM.
Reply:My first welding cart I mitered the angle for the base. If I ever build another, I'll notch and cope the corners. Easier to get a good fit up. I don't have a chop saw so I use an angle grinder, and my mitered corners left something to be desired. Poor fit-up made for a crappy time when I was just learning to tig.
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550I really think you all are overthinking the extra bracing.  The angle is 3/16" thick, which is pretty beefy for 1" angle.  Assuming the wood floor is actually attached to the frame and not just laying in it, it will provide a huge increase in rigidity and will also help transfer load placed beyond the angled braces back to the triangulated area.The design looks just fine the way it is, to me.  Cope or miter the angles, whatever floats your boat.
Reply:Originally Posted by OkieDaveMaybe don't sit on it until you've given it a good washing and looking-over.