Lightweight trailer / welder selection

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Hi folks.I already did the introduction thing so I won't repeat that here.  But I will note that I used to be a TIG welder, about a million years ago.  And after 30 years of mostly pressing keys on keyboards, I'm going to jump back into some metalworking.Really, I've just been looking for a good excuse to buy a welder, and I think I finally have it.  I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a Millermatic 211 with spoolgun, but thought I'd do a sanity check first.I'd love to invest in a TIG welder, since I used to be pretty good at TIG and only so-so at MIG, but prefer to keep the budget around $1500 and be able to get this trailer built and handle most of the stuff that comes up around the farm.I won't get into all the design details of the trailer I'm building, but essential specs are:Max cargo weight: 250#Steel frame, aluminum bodyI want to keep the trailer gross weight below 600#, and think I can pull that off with a good design.  100# on the tongue, 400# sprung, another 100# or so in wheels, tires, and unsprung suspension.  Give or take 20#...The steel will be 14 to 11 gauge.  Aluminum will be 19 to 10 gauge, maybe with a few small bosses here and there.Honestly I'm a little concerned about relying on a spoolgun for the aluminum work.  I have no doubt that with some practice I'd be back up and running with a TIG setup.  But an AC/DC TIG machine is out of budget, and I think that from a speed/convenience standpoint, I'm better off with a MIG setup.  Both to get this trailer built and for all the odds and ends that come up.I'd appreciate any feedback, and hope I've provided enough information.  For this job, does a 211 make sense?  And if so, will 110v power it, or should I wire for 220v (rather not...)
Reply:that is a truly light weight trailer. is it for strictly farm use or will it see public roads?you should be fine with that machine, but you're going to want to put in a good amount of practice before you dive into the actual build.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Indy - I have that same setup and I have not been successful/happy with the spoolgun on aluminum. Admittedly, I have not spent a lot of time with it, because I get so d**n frustrated with it, I quit and put (read - throw!) it away. I know others are using it. (And yes, I have had the mod to the tip) Just easier for me to TIG aluminum than waste the time and wire and blood pressure with the spoolgun.All that to say, don't expect to pull it out of the case and start welding an aluminum trailer. Be prepared to spend a lot of time practicing (and swearing, and clearing burnback wire, and replacing tips, and birdnests, and . . . ). Now that I think about it, if you came by I'd probably just give you my spoolgun.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:You'd really want to use that machine on 220v power, especially for alum, On 110v power you won't be able to do very much alum as it doesn't have enough output. On 110v power you will be maxed out under real world conditions at 1/8" steel, and you won't get anything more out of that machine on 110v power than you would on any decent 140 amp class name brand mig. That would be assuming you are directly plugged into a 20 amp or better circuit not using an extension cord or having other draws on that line. With alum you might get decent welds on 16 ga in 110v mode, but you are close to the lower limit on what alum mig will do. You will be right on the edge of blowing holes in the alum, but turn it down much and you won't  get good penetration.$1500 is more than enough to buy a nice AC/DC tig if you shop smart and keep your eyes open on CL. I semi regularly see Miller Syncrowave 180's and 200's in the $1000-1500 range used on CL and a few have picked up Syncro 250's in almost new condition occasionally in the middle to upper end of that range. I very often see older Miller 330's and the rebadged units stating as low as $450 and going up to say $900 depending on what is included. They are big heavy and power hungry, but good solid units. You'll see any number of guys here who have them.DC inverter tigs also pop up semi regularly in the $800-1100 range. I regularly see Maxstar 150's and occasionally Maxstar 200's in that price range, maybe a bit more on the 200's..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerthat is a truly light weight trailer. is it for strictly farm use or will it see public roads?you should be fine with that machine, but you're going to want to put in a good amount of practice before you dive into the actual build.
Reply:Originally Posted by IndyTimThis will be a road-use trailer.
Reply:If you like tig, and did it 30 years ago, you'll be happy to hear those machines are dirt cheap now (like DSW said).The one in my avatar (Airco 300/Miller 330abp) was $225 and is 900 lbs of awesome Of course the other ones he mentioned are nicer in the $1500 range.I don't like spool gun aluminum off my mm210 - could be cause I don't like spool guns though.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I bought a spool gun a couple years ago. Last time I touched one was in the 1970s. This is 16-GA aluminum. When I first got the spool gun playing with settings. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI bought a spool gun a couple years ago. Last time I touched one was in the 1970s. This is 16-GA aluminum. When I first got the spool gun playing with settings.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveWhich one you running?
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThis red one.
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtIndy - I have that same setup and I have not been successful/happy with the spoolgun on aluminum. Admittedly, I have not spent a lot of time with it, because I get so d**n frustrated with it, I quit and put (read - throw!) it away. I know others are using it. (And yes, I have had the mod to the tip) Just easier for me to TIG aluminum than waste the time and wire and blood pressure with the spoolgun.All that to say, don't expect to pull it out of the case and start welding an aluminum trailer. Be prepared to spend a lot of time practicing (and swearing, and clearing burnback wire, and replacing tips, and birdnests, and . . . ). Now that I think about it, if you came by I'd probably just give you my spoolgun.
Reply:Thanks for posting those pics, CEP.  Very helpful and nice work.
Reply:Here are my thoughts... not that anyone cares. Buy the MIG setup and build the trailer out of steel.Once you decide to spend the money on a TIG setup, build stuff out of aluminum.I think using MIG for a small steel/aluminum trailer is over complicating things.Why build a trailer that is so small?  I'm thinking it is for a very specific purpose.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.