welding bed frame.

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I have been getting alot of mobile heavy equipment and gate repair/ onsite fab work. Since I got a trailblazer 250g (broken amp knob I gotta figure out what parts to order) for 800 bucks I thought I would rig out this old beat up 97 dodge 12v dually I picked up since the bed is rotten. I want to do a flat bed with recess area for my welder and maybe a big toolbox after the welder with a big flat area to work in the back. I was wondering what you guys recommend sizing wise for the frame. I was thinking 10g for the deck skin. I also want to put a homemade crane/lift on it since I am a one man show. I have searched tons of threads but most where pipliner stuff which I do none of. I will add some boxes and such later but need to get rolling so i am hoping to start tues.
Reply:I used 11 gauge for my deck and sides. It is all framed out with 3/16 channel… check out the welding rig thread in the projects and pictures forum, its over 40 pages and has everything from service bodies to pipeline rigs to hondas with a welder sitting in the front seat.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:I've never built a bed for a pickup, so I'll let the guys who have done that answer the frame detail questions.  Weight will be a pretty serious issue and you'll want to keep things on a diet if you want to haul many tools legally.That said, I've built work decks and I think if heavy equipment repair is part of your work, you're going to regret having a 10 ga work surface.  Something like 1/4" minimum or preferably 3/8" plate is what you'll be wanting in that area of the bed.  Stuff that weighs hundreds of pounds is going to be banging, sliding around, and falling onto and off of that area.  As far as the non-load bearing areas of the deck skin go, you can save some weight and go with 12 ga or even 14 ga if you do a good enough job with heat control to keep it from warping.  Thinner yet if you don't mind taking your time.  I would be super careful to maximize tool storage area.  There are a couple of trucks on here (built maybe by Bob or Irish Fixit...can't remember) where the owner did a really good job with getting a lot of tools onto a pickup chassis.  One of them even had drawers between the crossmembers in the sides of the flatbed - that's one idea I remembered and liked.  You will find that heavy equipment work takes a LOT of tools, many of which are pretty good-sized.  Glad to see you've already figured out that you don't want a pipeliner bed - that's a great first step.  Finally, I don't know how busy you are but don't forget there's no shame in going the cheap, fast route -- just look for a used utility bed.  Plenty of storage, cheap to find, and ready for you to toss your tools into and go.  That's what I had to do with my F350.  That truck literally went into service before I had a bumper on it and is *still* driving around with a black-painted wood 4" x 4" for a back bumper.  I'm actually hoping to get some time today to start mocking up the rear work deck for it since all of my customers are shut down for Labor Day.
Reply:Every body that starts out thinks they need a welding rig, and I own one also. Have you considered a trailer? I find a trailer a lot more flexible and affordable than a welding truck and you can easily get a used 7'x20' 14k lb trailer for a lot less than a 2ton truck.
Reply:Trailer wont work for my situation. We have one at the shop but it doesnt get used very much. Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking maybe 3/16 plat on the very back flat area and a thiner gauge up ront where I wont really be working on anything. I have read the welding rig thread like 10 times lol. I was wondering if anybody had a good thread showing how people did the framing and what size frame.
Reply:not a bad idea to do heavier plate in the back… Farmersam is a member here who has some very detailed posts about decking and framing… Not necessarily for a welding bed, but he gives some good advice, and detailed pictures. Worth looking him up and searching some of his posts.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:3/16 or 1/4 plate last one I did was out of 4" c channel Sent from my C811 4G using TapatalkVantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:Most welding beds I see are so over built that they can't carry much because the bed weighs so much. My bed is 14ga diamond plate and after over 20 years has no dents or gouges in it. My bed is framed with two 4" channel running length wise and 3"x1/4" flat strap running cross ways every foot with 3"x1/2"flat strap under the winch posts and the "A" frame legs. The welder sets length ways completely outside the frame and nothing has sagged or moved. The flat strap is the sides of the drawer slots as well.
Reply:Do you have the ability to weld aluminum? If so you can do an aluminum bed for not much more than the cost of steel plus a good paint job. Truck beds are easy to do with aluminum too because the truck frame does most of the work.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:I can weld alluminum and was thinking of doing one but had no Idea of how big frames or how guys do it. I heard it was a little different layout. So Bob are the flat straps the horizontal framing? I feel like I always see c chanel lengthwise then 2 square tubing on top of that horizontally. I think alluminum would be sweet if anyone has some planes. It would give me an excuse to get the 30a I have beeen waiting for a big job to buy.
Reply:bob do you have any picks?Also thanks everyone for the help. Dealing with some tough personal stuff and not getting flamed is really nice. I just want to do this bed right.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobMost welding beds I see are so over built that they can't carry much because the bed weighs so much. My bed is 14ga diamond plate and after over 20 years has no dents or gouges in it.
Reply:Here are some picks of the welding bed I had. I had stretched the frame on this f250 so this bed is 10' long. The welder is in the box behind the cab and sits crosswise with the torch mounted beside it. The welder sits right on the truck frame. I had a 5hp electric air compressor mounted on the drivers side of that box with the tank mounted underneath between the truck frames. This one has no main rails, just crossmembers and the side rails. The deck is 1/8" diamond plate, the boxes are .100 diamond. Sorry for the crappy pics, but I don't have a scanner right now and these are pics of pics.I usually use 3" crossmembers, they are strong enough to do the job, but you may want to go with taller or shorter depending on what you need to get the deck height you want. The main rails if any will also depend on what you need to get the deck height you need. For this type bed they are not manditory since your truck frame can do that part if you want. It's imposible to recomend a size for the structure parts because there are so many variables in truck frames and your personal wants and needs as far as deck height.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Hey welder J thats a great looking bed and love the idea of the tank under. Is that alluminum I cant see the pics very well. I am guessing so.
Reply:Originally Posted by alohacanaHey welder J thats a great looking bed and love the idea of the tank under. Is that alluminum I cant see the pics very well. I am guessing so.
Reply:thanks so much welderj what did you use for your outside framing? I think I am going to go this route. I will basically be carrying a trailblazer 250g a 150lb air compressor about 200 lbs of tools. and usually I wouldnt put more than 500 lbs on the deck. Also a small homemade crane to lift generators and items under 500lbs. with alluminum did you drill holes into your frame and bolt it on using stainless?
Reply:Originally Posted by alohacanathanks so much welderj what did you use for your outside framing? I think I am going to go this route. I will basically be carrying a trailblazer 250g a 150lb air compressor about 200 lbs of tools. and usually I wouldnt put more than 500 lbs on the deck. Also a small homemade crane to lift generators and items under 500lbs. with alluminum did you drill holes into your frame and bolt it on using stainless?
Reply:SO found this webpage  http://www.800toolbox.com/flatbeds/flatbeds.htm looks like way overbuilt compared to what everyone is saying. I was thinking doing it this way but only doing 6 crossmembers and using 3 inch channel for the crosmembers. I like how the 6 inch looks on the outside. What do you guys think?
Reply:They are heavy made. They do that because they can be used with a hoist. You need a lot more frame for that. They are nice looking for sure. That side rail does look nice, you could have that formed from sheet to hold down cost.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Not sure what your plan is for tool storage but you may want to consider doing frames to secure heavy duty totes rather than a box with drawers. Many of the mobile jobs we work on we aren't able to park near where we're working, so being able to pack tools in totes and bring them right to where we're working is nice.
Reply:Thanks needles good stuff!