Is There Press Die For This?

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I have a job requiring me to flatten, radius, and punch 3/8" hole.  3/4"o.d., .065 wall carbon tube. Several hundred pieces. Can any one give advice on the quickest process. Thanks. Attached ImagesMiller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:I just smash them in a flattening die, have the apprentice drill the hole and hit the ends on the belt sander.     for a couple hundred pieces thats your best bet.  If you were talking a couple thousand plus i would say a custom die might be worth it.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:http://www.vogeltool.com/
Reply:Hi Wagin, you could try squeezing them in a heavy bench vice using a pair of dummy vice jaws with one or both of them radiused on top and then drilling the hole....grind the end on a bench grinder....cost nix in extra tooling.Unless you have an arbor press or a fly press, or at least a workshop hydraulic press, (slower than a wet weekend) even a simple press tool won't help you much, 'specially as you'd have to do a bit of toolmaking to make the tool set.Lucky it's not solid bar or you'd be looking at a forging job.I would flatten the tube with the seam on top, otherwise if you have the seam on the side the tube will split along the seam.Even if'n you chose to make a press tool you would have to do it in two stages....the press tool to do it in one hit would cost you more than the job's worth.....I would think you'd not get any change out of 2 grand for a one in all tool made by a regular toolmaker.Two tools, one to flatten and the other to punch will still probably set you back a grand....made by a toolmaker.......DIY rarely works unless you have a bit of tool making knowhow and a mill and lathe with some heattreating experience.After that you'll still want a press to do the job on, at least a 5 tonner to do the flattening and punching....seperate operations.You could knock up a press using two pieces of channel iron and a toggle operated ram....a sketch if'n you want one.Ian.
Reply:Of course the hole could be punched after flattening.But, I wonder if the tube could be pushed together by a conventional punch set, punched, and then the tube flattened by the same tool, with further follow-through. It would probably cause some binding and the stripper would get a work-out, but with such thin material it'd probably work.Whip up a "flattening block" and slip it over the stem of a conventional punch, and try it. Next... if  you could cope-cut  the radius by grinding a "window" in a larger punch set's die, then you'd really be swingin'.Good Luck
Reply:Now is that flatten to one side or centered?  Makes a big difference.
Reply:I'd use an ironworker machine to flatten the tube and punch the holes."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25