Making a ladder and have a question

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Ok the ladder is 14' tall and will be vertical. It will be bolted at the top to a platform. The steel is one inch square tubing 16 gauge. When I leaned it almost vertical (wife held it so I would not flip over) it was a little more wobbly than I like. I have a hard time believing  it will kink and fold up at the 6 or 8 foot mark but better safe than sorry.Here is my question: Should I add a second piece similar to the second and third picture? Attached ImagesLast edited by Reebs; 06-01-2014 at 06:40 PM.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:Wouldn't hurt a thing to add them, and while your at it, add a few more of the connecting pieces in between the two uprights for more strength. But if it is in a vertical position, then all the load is in compression, and being bolted at the top should keep it from buckling in the middle. So it is your call really if you want to add them or not. Fourteen gage or 11 gage may have been a better choice for the uprights originally, though.
Reply:OK great suggestions.  Bistineau I agree more connectors! I just did that for a picture.7A749 that is a great idea.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:Originally Posted by ReebsOk the ladder is 14' tall and will be vertical. It will be bolted at the top to a platform. The steel is one inch square tubing 16 gauge. When I leaned it almost vertical (wife held it so I would not flip over) it was a little more wobbly than I like. I have a hard time believing  it will kink and fold up at the 6 or 8 foot mark but better safe than sorry.Here is my question: Should I add a second piece similar to the second and third picture?
Reply:Run a piece of 1" angle iron up both sides.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749That or flat stock along the outsides.All the ships ladders I've ever built were from 2" X 3/8" strip with holes punched in them for round rungs made from 3/4" rebar. We made dozens of them for one job alone. They held up fine. Any lateral bracing would help if its got some flex to it.
Reply:Probably should have said this before It will be bolted at the top and the bottom will be anchored at the bottom (driving rebar in ground and have it run inside tubing). Thanks again folksDave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:So its not more wobly than you like without a clip in the middle anymore?
Reply:Not sure what you mean Insaneride.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:Believe he might mean that if only anchor points are at top and very bottom, ladder will get snaky on you as well as move in and out.  Need a mid-way anchor to the building or a LOT more reinforcement along the stiles.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:OOPS. Duplicate.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by ReebsNot sure what you mean Insaneride.
Reply:Here is semi completed project. I scabbed on 2" flat stock 1/8 thickness. It took the wiggle out. I was planning on going straight up but found this angle to be better. Thanks for the tips. Attached ImagesDave ReberWadsworth Ohio