New Table

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48x48x1.5 ground flat and parallel within 0.015.  I think it weighs between 900 and 1000 lbs.  Done on this grinder.  72" magnetic chuck, that thing is pretty beefy.  They also had mattison grinders that I swear are 30 feet long.Unloading.  Yeah I know, clamps aren't supposed to be used as lifting devices, but this is just lifted high enough to inch it off the trailer with a pry bar, then when it's almost off, lift the end with a tranny jack and drive the trailer out from under it.Then lower it on jackstands where it'll live for a while.Continued in next post...
Reply:The legs are .250 wall 4" square tube with half inch material welded to the bottoms with a 3/4-10 thread for leveling feet.  I debated whether I wanted to make a framework for the table but in the end I just decided to make 6" square top caps for the legs that will bolt directly to the table.  It's not like this is a monster long table, so the legs are close enough together that I don't think there will be much "sag over time, plus, the legs will be pretty short.3/4-10 threadMy bridgeport is not under power because I'm still trying to find an electrician to hook up the phase converter, I don't know enough about that proper electrical work to jump in there(anybody familiar with phase converters in tucson want to help?).  But I can still use the bridgeport as a coordinate measuring machine to locate the 4.750 square 4 hole pattern for the leg top caps.  It would have been a lot faster to just scribe it out but I was having some fun playing with the dials and all that.Then figured out where I wanted to put the legs and transfer punched the pattern to the table.Continued in next post...
Reply:The table top will have a grid of 1/2-13 threaded holes and I want the hole location to be pretty accurate so it can be used for jigs, fixtures, setting automatic stops, etc.  The best way I could come up with to get an accurate square is illustrated in this example.  This may already be a technique other people use, but as far as I know I've never seen it before.  First, draw a very accurate 2 inch line.  Since a square is the same thing as two congruent triangles sharing the same hypotenuse, we can use the pythagorean theorem.  The hypotenuse of a right triangle having 2 inch legs is 2.82 inch.  Set compass for 2.82 inch.  Put the compass point at the end of the original 2 inch line. Draw an arc, same thing for the other end of the line.  Now reset the compass at 2 inches.  Again, draw arcs from each end of the datum line.  Where the arcs intersect each other are the other 2 corners for the square.  Then just connect the dots.  This yields a mathematically constructed square whose legs are at right angles and diagonals are equal.Then, blued the table with dykem and scribed the first leg of the square.  This segment is analogous to the original 2 inch datum used in the paper example.  This time it's 20" on the nose.  I used a 48 inch starrett scale with 1/64" graduations and a 10x magnifier to scribe the line, so I'm very confident that it's length is accurate.  The hole spacing of the grid is 2.5" on centers, so this 20" line is scribed with an intersection every 2.5".Then used an On-Mark brand optical center punch to to lightly punch the hole locations, followed by a more swift punch with the starrett punch.  For anyone who's never used or heard of an optical center punch, it has an acrylic resin magnifier with a reticle to locate the scribe line intersections.  Once you have it dialed in, you remove and replace the magnifier with the supplied punch having the same diameter, so it's a snug fit.  The body has cork on the bottom to help keep it from slipping off center, and the relief distance from the reticle to the work piece is very small, so parallax is not much of an issue.The punch itself.Now to blue the table and scribe the arcs to obtain the other two outside corners of the grid.  Obviously a compass won't work on this scale, so trammels are used instead.  After scribing the rest of the square, I checked the length of all 4 legs and the diagonals with the big scale and magnifier, and I can't see any deviation greater than 1/64".  So, I'm happy with the results.Continued in next post...
Reply:Continue blueing the grid...The grid is complete.  Each blue stripe contains a scribed line, and the intersections were all located using the optical center punch.  It was a long hot day in tucson doing all the blueing, scribing, and center punching, and even with the garage door open and fan running, I got more than a little light headed from the dykem fumes.  There were 205 holes to locate and punch including the 16 for the legs to mount to.Rented a milwaukee mag drill to make the holes.  I was hoping to use some 27/64" annular cutters but the milwaukee is the only mag drill rental I could find, and of course it uses a 3/4" jacobs chuck instead of the weldon holder.  If I had looked harder and called around a bit more I might have found one but I was restless and wanted to start TODAY so I decided I'd punish myself with twist drills.  That milwaukee is a beast though.Here I'm sweeping the plate with a button indicator and indicol to make sure the spindle rotation was perpendicular.  Not even close, had to remove several big burrs from the bottom of the magnet, then it was ok.  At the taking of the picture, I was toying with the idea of running the annular cutters in the jacobs chuck, but decided against it.Here around a quarter of the holes are done.  Only wasted out one 7/32" pilot drill, and am still on the same 27/64" finish drill.  Going through inch and a half thick material, that's pretty impressive to me for grainger's house brand of hss drills.  Something to be said for correct speeds/feeds, lubrication, and chip clearing.  After this picture, I did another row and the other 8 leg mount holes.  Each row takes about 90 minutes.  Most of it is spent trying to get over the center punch and changing tools.  What a pain on your knees and back being all hunched over it.  So I decided to call it a day and come back to do the other 150 or so hole after it's up on legs so I can stand up to do the job.Continued in next post...
Reply:I bought a cedarberg hand tapper to do the holes.  This thing is intended to be a bench mounted unit but no reason it can't go portable here.  Trying to do all these holes with a tap wrench would have taken forever and probably would have resulted in some taps starting crooked and breaking off.  With the cedarberg, you just throw the tap in the spindle, roughly line up over the hole, start in a couple turns and it self aligns the base, then clamp down to keep it from rotating.  Works like a charm.  I should have gotten some spiral point taps so I don't have to back off to break the chips but I just ended up using some taper taps I already had.  Had to stick a .006 feeler gage under the front of the casting where it bolts to it's own base.  After that, it works great.Close up.Only 204 more to go.Now that I've got some of the holes in the table tapped, I can start using the table with the toe clamps like I intended.  Here, I'm welding the leg top caps to the tubes.  Toe clamps are awesome for this type of stuff.Nothing to write home about but it'll do the job.Continued in next post...
Reply:Legs are all welded, bolt holes de-spattered, ready to go.Drilled up some tubes to bolt to the surface for use with the lifting slings.Two hoists used in tandem.Had to call in reinforcements from inside the house to help lift it up/call the ambulance if it fell on me...How she stands now, nice and leveled.  I can already tell the thing is way taller than I intended.  It looked good on paper, I don't know what I was thinking.  No big deal though, I'll snatch the top back off at some point, and cut the legs down by 4 or 5 inches.  Still got to rent the mag drill again and finish off the holes.  Won't be so bad next time as I'll be able to stand up.  Then move the table to it's final resting place.  48x48 is kind of a small working surface, so after I finish and get the bridgeport straightened out, I'll be building this table's twin so I can push them together, level the surfaces with each other, and have 4x8 feet of surface for fixturing.  This was mainly gauged by the capacity of the grinder, but also to make the table more manageable to move around.That's all for now, I'll update this thread as appropriate.  Thanks for looking.
Reply:Awesome
Reply:I forgot to mention why I wanted 2.5 inch hole spacing.  In addition to toe clamps, I'll be using these table mount type clamps from stronghand, which have a bolt on mount with four 1/2" holes on a 2.5" square.  You really only have to use one bolt so long as it's in line with the clamping arm, but I wanted the capability to bolt with two or even four bolts just in case.  The one pictured here, a "UF" size rail, is beefier than the ones that go with the buildpro tables, but it's still kinda weenyish.  I have a "UM" size rail table mount clamp with the heavy duty replaceable pad on order now.  I'll show a side by side comparison when it gets here in the next couple days.  I love my other stronghand "UM" bessey style clamps.  They are definitely beef.
Reply:Yowza!! Awesome table
Reply:Nice looking table.
Reply:I am now thinking using my plasma for marking, and a auto feed Nitto Kohki mag drill, I could get something similar rigged up.(close enough for me anyway) That tapping fixture is a excellent tool to have. Thanks for posting your excellent work/project..Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:Awesome table top . If not too nosy, what did that top cost ? How tall is it ? That 1 1/2'' is too nice to use. Might look good in the kitchen too.
Reply:Thanks for the compliments y'all.  BD, it was right around 800 for the material and grind job.  It's sitting at 39 1/2" tall right now, but I'm going to cut it down to around 35 or 34.  After a couple months of filing BBs off she won't be so pretty.  Only thing I don't want getting messed up is the threaded holes, so I'm probably going to get a ton of set screws I can screw in just a hair below the surface.
Reply:That table is a work of artThe amount of precision you put into the hole placement is amazing, not many people put that much thought into a work surface. The plate sure is thick enough and I'll doubt it will ever bow. Good idea with the set screws, it will save you a lot of time instead of screwing around with a tap.Did you order this yet http://www.grainger.com/product/WELD...421?s_pp=falseThat should last you for a month or twoTOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Yeah, I saw the milwaukee had instant reversing, I was just too chicken to use it to power tap.  The phase converter is a desco 5hp.  I'm pretty sure they're not in business anymore, their website and phone are dead ends.  I decided to make a new thread in the electrical forum, hoping that someone local sees it who is familiar with phase converters, if not I'll probably just call around and try to find an electrician that at least knows what a phase converter is.  Had a guy out several months ago running a new 240v circuit, and he seemed dubious that such a product would work, wtf.  The guts of the converter are all untouched since the time it was taken out of service, 3 wires for the input power and 3 wires for the output power.  The lines out to the drum switch are easy enough actually, but the lines in, there's a white, a pink, and a green.  In the picture, the lines coming into the box in the upper left hand corner are the white, pink (red?), and green.  The green goes to the capacitor on the right, the pink goes to the capacitor in the middle, and the white goes to that black component in the upper middle.  I don't even know what to call it.  So there's my biggest problem, not knowing which ones get the 240v hot legs and which one is ground.  Anyways, I got wayyy off topic there.
Reply:Chris T, yeah I gotta figure out how I'm going to treat the table top, I'll probably just spray it down with pam every now and then.  I've also seen a product called corrosion x, maybe I'll give that a try.
Reply:That is an awesome table!
Reply:Outstanding table.  Very impressive.  Looking forward to seeing the rest of the post as you finish the table.
Reply:If you ever buy your own mag drill, you might consider drilling another pattern of holes to use the Stronghand buildpro table tooling. You might be able to stack that hole pattern within the holes you have already drilled so they do not collide. You'll find that the fixturing direction you have headed is VERY time consuming to setup and clamp down what could take about 5 seconds with quick release clamps, plus you have no way to work vertically. Just throwing that out there. You do not have to scrap what you have already done, infact having both hole patterns would be very nice to have. I dont know the exact hole pattern but I a sure that information is readily available. Here are my two stronghand riser blocks. I dont use them as much as I use to but I do use them for one particular project still to this day.Very nice table BTW.
Reply:Jimmypop, one of the ideas I wrestled with was whether I wanted to use the stronhand buildpro tooling or not, but their clamps with the 5/8 plugs just seemed too much on the light side.  I do however like their table mount clamps, which are very similar to the clamps in your picture, but they bolt to the table top instead of slipping in the acorn square.  I agree that using toe clamps exclusively would be a huge pain in the a$$ and fooling with items like that seconds become minutes become hours.  I plan on using these stronghand "table mount" clamps for most of the interior clamping, but I like having the option to toe clamp if I need to.It literally took 15 seconds to place this clamp, and screw in an inch long 1/2-13 bolt.  If I just get the bolt finger tight and tighten the clamp's pressure screw, the bushing "rocks back" about 0.008".  If I give it a snug with a wrench and tighten the pressure screw the same amount, it rocks back about 0.004".  And you really only need one bolt to hold these clamps down, so long as it's relatively in line with the arm.  So the buildpro clamps may be quicker, but with these I can use what I feel are higher quality clampsEven though these "UF" rail clamps are slightly heavier duty than the buildpro "inserta clamps", they're still not as beefy as I would like.  So I have another one to test that should be delivered today that has the "UM" rail size and heavy duty pad like the clamp pictured next to it.  I'll post a follow up when it gets here.Shows how the clamp rail inserts quickly into the bushing.  Roughly analogous to your acorn clamps.And you're absolutely right, nothing I have done so far precludes the possibility of going back into this and putting in a grid of 5/8" holes if I decide the table mount clamps are too cumbersome, but I'm hoping it won't be necessary.  And as far as vertical fixturing is concerned, as soon as the bridgeport gets power to it, there'll be a whole slew of angle plates, riser blocks, etc.  Thanks for the suggestions.
Reply:That's awesome man! You could move to Bluco or Siegmund tooling. I know Bluco has reconditioned tooling that is 20% off list price. Both of these tools use a table with 28mm holes. The nice thing about the Bluco is that the neck of the clamp telescopes. So there really isn't a spot I cannot hit on my table, whereas I would often not be able to clamp where I needed to with the acorn square holes and the Stronghand tools I used previously. But you are right about the clamping of the baseplate will allow your stronghand clamp to rock back just alittle bit before starting to clamp down with force. You could even use one or two of those quick release pin. something along this line:http://www.westmarine.com/west-marin...003/zoomImagesAnyway, you have a great table there and fixturing is the only way to go as far as I am concerned. I can do the work of probably 2.5 guys and it is dead nuts perfectly true and square.Your table is soo damn thick that you could probably drill holes and just drop in the large stronghand clamp with the dowel pin. I think stronghand makes those tool with a 1.5" base for the older acorn tables.
Reply:That sounds almost cheap for the steel and grinding. 1 1/2" is awesome! I thought the 1" I have is nice, but 1 1/2 is a killer.
Reply:Killer job!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Very nice....wait for all the 'why did you waste time on a welding table' comments...My top is ground, I just wipe it down with WD40 or Pam or whatever else I have laying around.  It stays pretty clean and even Mig dingleberries don't really stick.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popThat's awesome man! You could move to Bluco or Siegmund tooling. I know Bluco has reconditioned tooling that is 20% off list price. Both of these tools use a table with 28mm holes. The nice thing about the Bluco is that the neck of the clamp telescopes. So there really isn't a spot I cannot hit on my table, whereas I would often not be able to clamp where I needed to with the acorn square holes and the Stronghand tools I used previously. But you are right about the clamping of the baseplate will allow your stronghand clamp to rock back just alittle bit before starting to clamp down with force. You could even use one or two of those quick release pin. something along this line:http://www.westmarine.com/west-marin...003/zoomImagesAnyway, you have a great table there and fixturing is the only way to go as far as I am concerned. I can do the work of probably 2.5 guys and it is dead nuts perfectly true and square.Your table is soo damn thick that you could probably drill holes and just drop in the large stronghand clamp with the dowel pin. I think stronghand makes those tool with a 1.5" base for the older acorn tables.As mentioned in previous posts, I ordered a heavier duty table mount clamp to test out and it is definitely up to my expectations of quality and beefiness.  The first one I got, on the right, is the "UF" size rail with a standard pad, its ok, but a little on the light side.  The one I just got last night, on the left, is the "UM" size rail with the heavy duty pad.  This particular one is 20" capacity, whereas it's little brother is 12".  When you clamp with the "UM", there's much less rock back in the bushing, and the clamp rail flexes much less.  It also has an 11/16" hex on the screw, don't know if it's such a great idea to wrench on it too hard though.  I'll definitely be ordering more of the "UM" clamps for use as the primary workholding devices for this table.  That thing is huge though, so I'll probably get another 20" clamp but I'll mostly tool up with the 12" "UM" clamps.  The table surface has a 6" wide area around the border with no holes since I can reach in that deep with my standard bessey and stronghand clamps, so I'm thinking probably 6 of the table mount clamps should be enough to cover my needs in the center.
Reply:I had the heavy duty pads on all my Stronghand clamps. I was VERY happy with them. They were all the 20" tall models and I dont think I ever used them that tall, not even close, and they actually only got in the way. You are thinking right to get shorter clamps.Once you get your machining up and running, you should make your own clamps like this with DOM tubing. They slide up and down as well as forward and back. This is the same design as the Bluco clamps and they work really well. http://www.welding-bench.org/images/...h_stahl_03.jpgYou could probably source out the pad, acme thread ETC. or make those too.
Reply:Back to the welding table project...MSC is having their 25% off web orders and free shipping offer, so I picked up a few items.Picked up a couple spiral point taps to replace the 4 flute taper tap I had been using.  Spiral point taps are much more efficient at through holes, because the tap geometry pushes the chip out ahead of the tap as it advances in the bore, eliminating the need to back the tap up every turn or two to break the chip.  I didn't think I'd mind doing the threads in the hand tapper, but as the mag drill I'm using has some very slow speeds and instant reversing as pointed out by 7A749, I'll be running these in the mag drill as a second op after final drilling.High quality OSG hypro 3 fluters.Also got some stud mounted pivotal leveling feet.  The weight capacity is way overkill for an 1100 lbs table, but I like the size of them.Also picked up 200 1/2-13 set screws to protect the threads when not in use.I'll probably get started again on the holemaking this weekend.
Reply:ar; incredible job! i'm really impressed by your hole layout technique. i would love to steal it but have no idea what a hypotenuse and optical center punchare. for the stuff i do a worn out tape and a hammer driven center punch work ok. i was surprised to see that after all the thought that went into the prep that the legs were too long. it sounds like something i would do. awesome job!i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Hah, yeah it is kinda funny, all that work/prep, and then totally bobo the leg lengths.  The more I use it and work on it, the better I'm feeling about the height though.  It is kinda tall, but my last table is about the same height, just a couple inches below belly button height, and it actually is pretty comfortable for me to work on.  I guess that's really all that matters.  I had just planned on it being shorter.  Maybe my subconscious sabotaged my plans so that I would keep it at a comfortable height, despite my plans.  I'll probably leave it how it is, I can always shorten it later.  Thanks for the compliments!
Reply:That's an awesome table! Well done.Old tools, trajan band saw, grizzly, delta,lincoln
Reply:I'll admit it, I've got table envy.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:That is an awesome table and the precision of your build is great. I hope to build a table like that after I retire(still have a while to go though).
Reply:That's a really nice table! 2 thumbs up
Reply:Originally Posted by ARexpatYeah, I saw the milwaukee had instant reversing, I was just too chicken to use it to power tap.  The phase converter is a desco 5hp.  I'm pretty sure they're not in business anymore, their website and phone are dead ends.  I decided to make a new thread in the electrical forum, hoping that someone local sees it who is familiar with phase converters, if not I'll probably just call around and try to find an electrician that at least knows what a phase converter is.  Had a guy out several months ago running a new 240v circuit, and he seemed dubious that such a product would work, wtf.  The guts of the converter are all untouched since the time it was taken out of service, 3 wires for the input power and 3 wires for the output power.  The lines out to the drum switch are easy enough actually, but the lines in, there's a white, a pink, and a green.  In the picture, the lines coming into the box in the upper left hand corner are the white, pink (red?), and green.  The green goes to the capacitor on the right, the pink goes to the capacitor in the middle, and the white goes to that black component in the upper middle.  I don't even know what to call it.  So there's my biggest problem, not knowing which ones get the 240v hot legs and which one is ground.  Anyways, I got wayyy off topic there.Attachment 747111
Reply:Looks very true! Nice looking table and very functional. Thanks for sharing the process ; can use this for future reference.PlasmaCam CNC cutterLathe and Band SawClamps
Reply:Whenever I see projects like this, it always reminds me of just how bad my own welding table sucks. Of course, I inherited mine when I started my current job. The welding table is about 4' x 8' and 1" thick. But was hand made decades ago and heavily abused. So there is no truly flat surface anymore. It is dotted with old weld marks, cut and burn marks, dimples from excessive grinding, etc. But it's better than nothing. If only I could get my employers to let me make a new one. But they are WAY too cheap for that.
Reply:Awesome table top.You might consider taking some paste style "tip dip" and use a stiff applicator brush to treat your drilled/tapped holes in advance of doing any welding.I know you probably don't figure on any stray globs of molten metal flying around on the table, but a little prevention with some tip dip will forestall any thread damage if it should ever happen.I've had my share of weld spatter attaching itself to threads in holes on items I have welded, and your table has many chances for it to happen.Edited after posting.I missed where you were plugging the holes not in use.Last edited by walkerweld; 06-29-2014 at 08:25 PM.
Reply:Thanks for all the comments and compliments guys. Originally Posted by allenidahoWhenever I see projects like this, it always reminds me of just how bad my own welding table sucks. Of course, I inherited mine when I started my current job. The welding table is about 4' x 8' and 1" thick. But was hand made decades ago and heavily abused. So there is no truly flat surface anymore. It is dotted with old weld marks, cut and burn marks, dimples from excessive grinding, etc. But it's better than nothing. If only I could get my employers to let me make a new one. But they are WAY too cheap for that.
Reply:Today I tapped all the holes I already have drilled.  The cedarberg with a good quality spiral point tap makes short work of the holes.  I think it took about an hour and a half to tap all of these.  You just line up over the hole, start it a few turns without the base clamped down, and it self aligns the spindle with the bore.  Snug it with a toe clamp, give it a healthy squirt of tap magic, then you can start wrenching on the cedarberg with impunity.  I kind of get in a zen state when doing this monotonous work, you really don't even have to pay attention to what you're doing after snugging the toe clamp.I'll power tap the rest of the holes after the final drill, but for now, got the set screws in place and ready to run them down a hair below flush.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldAwesome table top.You might consider taking some paste style "tip dip" and use a stiff applicator brush to treat your drilled/tapped holes in advance of doing any welding.I know you probably don't figure on any stray globs of molten metal flying around on the table, but a little prevention with some tip dip will forestall any thread damage if it should ever happen.I've had my share of weld spatter attaching itself to threads in holes on items I have welded, and your table has many chances for it to happen.Edited after posting.I missed where you were plugging the holes not in use.
Reply:can you buy hardened set screws? hollow set screws would be nice too.
Reply:Honestly I didn't think about that, I just got two of the cheapest 100 packs that MSC listed.  MSC doesn't list any hollow set screws in 1/2 13, at least that I could find in a quick search.  K-Mac has hollow in 1/2 13 but they want 10.13 for a 10 pack.  The 100 packs at MSC were 35 and I got 25% off.  They are oxide coated, and at least anecdotal evidence has shown that weld spatter tends to not stick to black oxide, although I must admit I know nothing about the facts regarding black oxide's thermal conductivity.  Here's another thought; fastenal has 6' sections of 1/2-13 allthread in 6061, if I really got desperate I could get a couple of those and part off a bunch of 0.375 inch sections, turn a face, then figure out how to cold form a hex or square head in them.  On second thought, that sounds like way too much work.  Hopefully the black oxide is good enough at resisting spatter, but they whole table will still get a good spray down.  I've also heard some good things about these guys' products.  http://corrosionx.com/  Any thoughts?
Reply:the black oxide you speak of are still considered "plain" by the bolt supply I use. they will pretty much rust overnight - 48 hrs if exposed to water. splatter does indeed stick as I use the same black oxide on socket head cap screws in all my stuff. i think the black coating replaced the need for oil to keep the product "stable" while they sit on the retailers shelves awaiting sale. no one wants to buy new rusty bolts.
Reply:I welded all four leg top caps in close proximity to these toe clamps that have a similar black oxide and while the table surface got a healthy dose of spatter, there wasn't a single berry on the toe clamps.  All my bessy clamps and stronghand clamps have their leadscrews black oxide coated, and I don't recall ever having one get a berry in the thread.   Do you think it would be worthwhile to jam some nozzle dip down in each of the setscrews hex heads?  It wouldn't be too big a deal to do that once every couple months.  I doubt that it would be disturbed when wiping the table surface down with acetone either.
Reply:I like your table! I might have be tempted to buy some brass set screws. No splatter issues there.
Reply:Thanks for the compliment, viper.  Brass would have been an awesome material for the screws, but expensive.  Amazon has 100 pieces for $112.96, thats almost 3 times as much as the steel variety.  It's an option, but I really hope it doesn't become necessary.http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_in_-2...&rnid=42580011
Reply:Brass or Bronze could both be susceptible to galvanic action with all the current running through the table from welding.I am embarrassed to even think of posting photos of my table within a month of your posting.............I will brag and say it is bigger though..........96"x64"x3/4".And as far as the height goes, I think you will like the taller table. I did not think so at first but now I am liking it. My neighbor/mentor talked me into a taller table. I have long since learned to listen to him. His experience is worth a fortune.
Reply:The option of making your own plugs out of all thread is not a bad idea.  Insofar as making a hex relief to turn them in and out with, hex might be sexier, but a plain old straight cut across one end of each "made plug" would serve to engage with a slot type screwdriver.  There is not going to be any torque to contend with, so a slot would suffice.A dab of tip dip might be an ounce of prevention against a ball of spatter finding a permanent home in a hex, but tip dip was just the first thing that came to mind (as I have learned to protect threaded holes in objects I weld on by brushing in some tip dip, so plugging the hole with a bolt).  Some spray style spatter guard might be just as effective.AND, because there is not anything to stabilize a plug once it is in its hole, I wonder if there will be a tendency for the plugs to wind themselves deeper into the holes when the table is vibrated (grinding) or from hammer blows or other operations that make the table go "zing"?  If the plugs want to turn themselves deeper, you might want to coat the threads with some tip dip prior to installing the plug.  The tip dip should be viscous enough to stabilize the plug against vibrational movement.
Reply:Chuck, you're right, 48x48 is kind of a little guy for a welding surface, but there's going to be another one coming along that I can butt up with this one, level precisely, then bolt together with some heavy duty alignment bars from underneath.  That should increase the utility of the table system quite a bit.  I've always been comfortable welding and working on tables that were taller than what most people like.  I guess it's a personal preference.Walker, I did actually think about just milling a slot in them, but I've always hated farting around with flat head screwdrivers, when I can just chuck a 1/4" allen socket in my dewalt and make quick work of it.  I did think about the possibility of the plugs "migrating" deeper into the holes since there's no tension to the thread, but I considered it unlikely.  Some anti spatter in the threads does sound like a good idea though, not only to lock the plugs in a little tighter, but as cheap insurance in case I forget or neglect to put one back in.