Belt Grinder

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So not sure if this is a mistake of a project to embark on, but I really want a belt grinder.Before I even start the real build, I'm going to get a motor and see if I can get it to run nicely and work around that. My plan was to buy a treadmill motor for $30 that I know runs smoothly. Problem I'm not sure about is controlling the motor. It will probably be a 2.5hp motor, any suggestions on how to control the speed? If nothing else id want it full speed rather than slower.
Reply:http://usaknifemaker.com/grinders-sa...s-c-99-59.html
Reply:Thank you but I know how to build it. I need direction in setting up the motor.This one uses a treadmill motor.Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 07-13-2014 at 06:57 PM.
Reply:I built a belt grinder with a treadmill motor.  I just used the speed control from the treadmill.   The good thing about treadmill motors is they are DC which makes them resist bogging down.  A DC motor will always try to maintain the speed the controller is set at.  My treadmill motor only lasted a few months of light use due to the open frame design.  Metal dust will kill them quickly.   I have since upgraded to a sealed Baldor DC motor. The new motor is a beast!
Reply:Oh yeah. .. Beaumont Metal Works sells all the parts you need such as the drive and contact wheels,  pulleys, bearings etc.  They are a great company to deal with.
Reply:Originally Posted by tjwillisI built a belt grinder with a treadmill motor.  I just used the speed control from the treadmill.   The good thing about treadmill motors is they are DC which makes them resist bogging down.  A DC motor will always try to maintain the speed the controller is set at.  My treadmill motor only lasted a few months of light use due to the open frame design.  Metal dust will kill them quickly.   I have since upgraded to a sealed Baldor DC motor. The new motor is a beast!
Reply:I think mine is a 5hp.  Keep in mind that you will also need a motor controller.  Might find the controller on eBay too.  You can build the belt grinder for what you would buy a good bench grinder.  The belt grinder is like a Swiss army knife,  being able to change belts in a few seconds is awesome.
Reply:brooklynnbravest,  your example is an award winner to me. plain and simple desing, can be made really quick and looks sturdy, i like it. thank's for sharing
Reply:You will find a belt sander built for metal work so much niscer than a stone.  I have a simple one that was sold as an attachment for a bench grinder. I use blue zirconia belts, they seem to hold up forever.  I also generally use a fairly coarse (36) grit for most of my work.
Reply:Even with an AC motor I need a controller? I read for AC motors I use step down pulleys.Right now I'm torn between holding out till I find a nice used AC motor or ripping apart a treadmill and hoping I can salvage enough to control the motor without needing the entire control panel.Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 07-14-2014 at 06:44 AM.
Reply:@ BrooklynBravest - if you are considering a 3-phase AC motor, explore the use of a VFD (variable frequency drive) by KBAC.  Not sure the specs of your AC motor.Currently designing a metal disintegrator with a 3 Hp Baldor (3450 RPM), VFD, and 6" contact wheel.  Uncharted territory for me, but dig'n the challenge. Good luck in your quest."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:here is a nice one from the pasthttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...und&highlight=I use a 120 Volt AC 2 HP on mine and its just fine but if you want variable speed DC may be better for you but you will need a good power supply.here is another simple design \http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCKnifeMakingGrinders.htmand mine I cast the bearing housings and wheels Attached ImagesDIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestSo not sure if this is a mistake of a project to embark on, but I really want a belt grinder.Before I even start the real build, I'm going to get a motor and see if I can get it to run nicely and work around that. My plan was to buy a treadmill motor for $30 that I know runs smoothly. Problem I'm not sure about is controlling the motor. It will probably be a 2.5hp motor, any suggestions on how to control the speed? If nothing else id want it full speed rather than slower.
Reply:[QUOTE]12345678910,/If it's just metal fabrication, and you want balls out all the time, skip the treadmill motor and find a used 3400rpm tefc motor.QUOTE]   Good advice, i'm sold
Reply:It will be predominantly for knife grinding but I will obviously use it for other projects.
Reply:You'll want a controller the work on PWM instead of variable voltage. That will aid in maintaining a constant speed with varying loads. What voltage is the motor? Most likely a 90v I would presume.Airco Heliweld II AC/DC HomeMade Wire FeederLincoln 255PLincoln HD130Everlast PP804x8 CNC TableWelding helps me build my hobbies and takes up time on the side.
Reply:What exactly would a controller look like?All the machines I've seen other than treadmill motors are just an on/off switch?
Reply:I'm waiting to hear back on a delta motor which would be great to snag, but I could take a deal for a lesson motor, 1hp for $85.  Should I go for the leeson or hold out?
Reply:Just an fyi, I buy the craigslist screamin deal motors when I can. You will use them sooner or later.Now I lay me down to sleep, by the bed a Colt I do keep.Should I wake and find you inside, a coroner van is your next ride.
Reply:What would be my best bet here?I can get this motor for $75 shippedLeeson 1hp motor taken out of an air compressor. Told me it runs well. Looks to be decent shape just needs a paint job from what I can see.Attachment 771131Attachment 771141Or I can buy this for another $50 from harbor2 horsepower, good reviews.http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horse...7842-8287.html
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestWhat would be my best bet here? Or I can buy this for another $50 from harbor2 horsepower, good reviews.http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horse...7842-8287.html
Reply:You could do what I did, simple, cheap, effective.I love this thing, I use it for everything.Here's the build thread: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...48-belt-sanderWelding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910You can see the holes in the frameThat's not an enclosed motorLook for a Frame 56 TEFC Totally enclosed, fan cooledHow are you going to power ithow are you going to put wheels on it.Before you buy, you need to know those answers.If you really want to use it for knifemaking, get one with speed control, or step pulleys at a minimum
Reply:Why exactly can't I just go direct drive?I am trying to keep the cost of this thing minimal. I am just a guy in my garage tinkering around im not looking to go nuts. I just looked what it would cost me to get step down pulleys and a keyed shaft. Its another $80 on the build.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestWhy exactly can't I just go direct drive?I am trying to keep the cost of this thing minimal. I am just a guy in my garage tinkering around im not looking to go nuts. I just looked what it would cost me to get step down pulleys and a keyed shaft. Its another $80 on the build.Is there anything wrong with the Leeson motor I posted? It looks essentially like all the other motors ive seen on these things?What exactly is the problem with direct drive? I see a bunch of these machines that are direct drive as well. I just don't know if its worth the extra $80-$120 on the build to put in the bearing and pulley setup.
Reply:On your first pick wich is direct drive, there seems to be a piece of fabric between the sheave and motor frame...(probably a B plan to avoid dust.If not a tefc motor,  you will have to be very carefull not to let the dust go inside the motor, an open-drip proof motor  is not the best thing to use for that application...a motor is a magnetic field + a fan that suck surrounding air, so if air contains steel dust, soon you will be grinding the interior of your motor...  Look at every belt sanders manufactured and no odp motors are used there must be a reason
Reply:Originally Posted by snowbirdOn your first pick wich is direct drive, there seems to be a piece of fabric between the sheave and motor frame...(probably a B plan to avoid dust.If not a tefc motor,  you will have to be very carefull not to let the dust go inside the motor, an open-drip proof motor  is not the best thing to use for that application...a motor is a magnetic field + a fan that suck surrounding air, so if air contains steel dust, soon you will be grinding the interior of your motor...  Look at every belt sanders manufactured and no odp motors are used there must be a reason
Reply:I would go with the 2 hp remember everything you are turning has weight and there for need power to turn.  And the size of the contact with the belt effect’s this too.  The diameter of the wheels effect’s the speed to the belt.  Direct drive may be too fast I have 8” wheel with a 6” pulley on the shaft and 2.5” on the motor its hard to stop it and will remove lots of material.A side note when you pop your first belt it will scare the crap out of you nothing happens but “what the XXXX”.DIY CNC Plasma table USB BOB Price THCHypertherm 65Everlast PowerTig 255 EXTMiler 180 Mig13" metal latheMill/ DrillECT, ECT,
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterI would go with the 2 hp remember everything you are turning has weight and there for need power to turn.  And the size of the contact with the belt effect’s this too.  The diameter of the wheels effect’s the speed to the belt.  Direct drive may be too fast I have 8” wheel with a 6” pulley on the shaft and 2.5” on the motor its hard to stop it and will remove lots of material.A side note when you pop your first belt it will scare the crap out of you nothing happens but “what the XXXX”.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestThe leeson one looks pretty closed up no?I am going to use step pullies and a drive wheel.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestThe leeson one looks pretty closed up no?I am going to use step pullies and a drive wheel.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910No, I see what looks like three vents on the frontIt needs a 25 amp breaker on 110, or it needs to be 220 wiring and circuitNot simple and cheap1HP is lots to start with.
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ect&highlight=Above is the link to the one i made and posted. may be some helpful info.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestSo you are suggesting to start with LESS than a 1hp motor then?Why does the leeson motor draw 25 amps? It looks like it draws 18amps on 120 unless i am mis reading it. Or are you just suggesting that for an 18 amp motor I need a safety net of a 25amp breaker.Starting to think the project is a little more than I'm looking to get into.
Reply:ehhh...i know it's not much of a tool but...less than  100$  (CANADIAN)  so very cheap in usd... lol and it can make some kind of starting point, a plug and pla...no no....repair tool .in usa with coupons you'll probably find it for 19.95$ ...enjoy it
Reply:There are multiple designs to build the grinder from. I've built multiple grinders using 4 different designs s. 1.5-20hp 3ph motor powered by a vfd is a must. Forget pullis to give variable speed.  Have tried the treadmill motor route before it would work but I suspect more expensive in the long run. Recommend sunray pulleys and wheels.
Reply:I bought a Craftsman combo belt and disc sander from a garage sale for $20.  I have had it for 10 years, it was in storage outside in a shipping container for 2 years.  The thing is covered in rust.  I plugged it in and it runs perfectly just like always.  You can really find bargains on Craigslist, garage sales etc. It takes a little effort and you never know what you will find.   I like building things too, but some things are best left to the pros.IMHO  "G"ConductorX - The Volkswright Shophttp://volkswright.blogspot.com/http://bugwerks.blogspot.com/Miller DVI w/Spoolgun - Miller Plasma Cutter