Diversion 180 mods and review

admin

Got a Diversion 180, NIB. I was tossing up it or a Lincoln Precision Tig 225. I really liked the fact that I could use the Diversion on 115 VAC.The 180 only outputs 125A max. connected to 115V. This does ok but I was trying it out on a piece of 10" sch. 40 CS pipe using 1/8" ER70-6. Really needed to get up into the 130-150A range. So I made a fix.I bought a drop cord, 10/2 with ground, 100'. Pricey, but I know 20 amps through a 12 or 14 ga over much length at all just puts a strain on breakers and is like to trip them. I also had another idea in mind. I could use it as my 220VAC drop as well.Originally I got a male 50A plug to go to my wall 50A socket,  1' of 10/3, and a female 20A/115VAC. I made a pigtail using this, however wiring the female 115v socket as 220v. Before connecting to the machine, I decided to test the MVP adapters that come standard with the 180. It adapters have 4 pin-outs on the machine side. 4 pin-outs for 3 prongs? HHMMM... I tested the 115v and the 220v, and sure enough, only three are used with each, however the three used for 115v are not the same for the 220v. After figuring that out, I went and got a male 20A/115 connector and a female 50A connector, another 1' of 10/3, and made a second pigtail. Hooked it up and worked great! However, I do not suggest connecting in this configuration. I suggest using drop cords ONLY for their intended purpose, be it 115v or 220v. This is for information only and all wiring should be done by a qualified electrician.---------So after welding I came to hate the torch setup that comes standard. The push button is nice, but I've never been a fan of fingertip amperage control. I also didn't like that I had a non-flex torch. The torch also seemed heavy to me, weighted down by the jacketing that comes on it. 12.5' electrode lead is rather short for me as well. You could not have the machine on one side of a chassis and weld on the other. Soo, mod #1:After some research the torch on the Diversion is a standard Weld Craft 17. I first opted to purchase a flex head 17. The head actually just pulls out of the plastic handle and you can swap it out. However, no welding supply within 50 miles had one, but they could order it! (10 bucks more than I could, 79.99) Still didn't solve my problems of having a heavy rig, uncomfortable housing, short power cable. But I did have a 17 torch and 25' foot lead so I purchased a Weld Craft SW-1 momentary switch. After reading my electrical schematic I pulled the hood of my new Diversion and disconnected the rig from the gas line and power line inside the machine. I also clipped the remote wire at the heat shrink factory splice and left the circuit board connector intact. I added 25' of cat5 cable and soldered to the black and red wires. On the switch end, I soldered to the feed and to the normally open terminal. Note: three terminals on the switch... feed, normally open, or normally closed. I then took my Weld Craft power cable and connected it to the power terminal inside the machine, and to the gas. Re-used the strain relief so all still looks factory. Gave it a test and decided to keep the machine  The button works just like the one on the factory torch. Can hold down when ready to terminate welding and it "brings you out". Love the 25' power hose as well. And having the modular 17 torch on it is more sensible to me. If I would have been using my noggin I would have snapped pictures along the way, but didn't.Miller Bobcat 225Miller Diversion 180 - sold searching for a DynastyHobart TigmateMillermatic Challenger 172
Reply:Originally Posted by gcnettlGot a Diversion 180, NIB. I was tossing up it or a Lincoln Precision Tig 225. I really liked the fact that I could use the Diversion on 115 VAC.The 180 only outputs 125A max. connected to 115V. This does ok but I was trying it out on a piece of 10" sch. 40 CS pipe using 1/8" ER70-6. Really needed to get up into the 130-150A range. So I made a fix.I bought a drop cord, 10/2 with ground, 100'. Pricey, but I know 20 amps through a 12 or 14 ga over much length at all just puts a strain on breakers and is like to trip them. I also had another idea in mind. I could use it as my 220VAC drop as well.
Reply:On 115v, the machine is governed to only 125A. Just for grins I tried it out on 220v at 150A and 165A. It was hot for what I was welding, had to run pretty fast, so unless I am welding something really thick, the 130 to 140 amp range should suffice. That should give me a duty cycle around 30%Have not tried it on aluminum yet. I work on automotive A/C from time to time, and its common to have something stuck through the aluminum core in front. Being able to close that up on 115v would be a big help, as I could just pack my machine and go with it. For any heavy stuff I use my bobcat. Over the Dynasty I would have purchased the Lincoln Precision Tig. I feel in the near future I will end up with one anyway. As far as the warranty, everything can be returned to the way it was originally. I suggest however that all machine repair or altering be done only by a qualified Miller technician.Miller Bobcat 225Miller Diversion 180 - sold searching for a DynastyHobart TigmateMillermatic Challenger 172
Reply:Originally Posted by gcnettlOn 115v, the machine is governed to only 125A. Just for grins I tried it out on 220v at 150A and 165A. It was hot for what I was welding, had to run pretty fast, so unless I am welding something really thick, the 130 to 140 amp range should suffice. That should give me a duty cycle around 30%.
Reply:Haha. No wild electrical wiring here. Just didn't want to have two drop cords, when I could make one serve the same purpose. Never cut into one but have patched a few condenser leaks up in a car or two, I doubt auto a/c condenser tubes are thicker than that, just waiting to try it out for that.The only thing that worries me about this machine is it sounds so electronic in the arc. I guess when welding DC the hf is constant maybe?Miller Bobcat 225Miller Diversion 180 - sold searching for a DynastyHobart TigmateMillermatic Challenger 172