totally frustrated

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buddy at work asked me if i can modify his radiator for his car he is rebuilding. 2.25" aluminum lower tube and 1.5" topside tube need modified for hose fit and to miss the frame.so i pick up a box of 4043 1/16" filler, 4 feet of 1.25" 6061 tube and get to practicing... been a long time since i did any aluminum tube tig.cant seem to get a balance between penetration and blowing throughmachine and settingssyncrowave 200ac 95 amps (max) with foot pedalhad some luck with pulse set to full but still having issues with burnthrough any tips or tricks? just doing practice pieces but i would hate to ell a buddy i cant do it for him...thanks
Reply:How thick is the tubing? What is your CFH? Too high CFH while welding aluminum can cause trouble. Cup size? Electrode stickout? Arc length? Turn the pulse off and post some pictures.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Sound like way to low heat to me and your filler is kinda small I'd setup at 200amps and use 3/32 5356rod. You need the high amp to start the bead then feather off the peddle as you go
Reply:my bad... tubing wall is 1/16" was running a gas lense and a #8 changed out for a #5 non gas lense cup stickout between 1/4" and 5/16" arc length probably around 5/32 actual.
Reply:Use a 3/32 filler wire.  It will chill that puddle and keep you from  blowing through so easy. Also speed up your travel rate.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:As you already know, tubing is difficult compared to flat - I would brush up skills and settings on flat stock first.Your settings sound pretty good to me. Last weekend I was on some 1/16" flat, pretty sure I was set at 100 amps (max) or so, #7 gas lens.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:May want to use a rare earth tungsten on it kept to a point, with a balance that holds the point without balling up. Lots more control! Ditch the pure tungsten.Lastly, if the bottom is falling out after the first inch or so, perhaps pay more attention to how the heat is moving through the piece.
Reply:I'd set about 125A, 40% EP balance and use 1/16 5356 filler. You need to get moving quickly and back off to about 50% pedal after 5-6 seconds. Some folks swear a pointy tungsten is better, but I'll settle for a stable ball. I find that anything other than pure tungsten works fine, 3/32 for 70-170A, balled on DCEP until 5-10% bigger than the ball you get from welding on AC for 10 sec. The bigger ball is less prone to becoming uneven, flattened or contaminated, and the cleaning works much better. A pointy tungsten is really no help at all for an inside corner. Get your arc length down to focus the heat, closer to 1/16-1/32". Practicing on flat stock is fine, but you'll need to practice moving the torch around the tube eventually. Good luck!Last edited by Brazin; 06-20-2014 at 11:22 AM.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by trunkz just doing practice pieces