miter cold saw

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Ok cold saw, Jancy Slugger, Evolutuion, Dewalt...don't care.Has anybody set one up so the saw swivels to do 45 degree cuts, I want to use feed rollers into mine, but don't want to **** the stock into the saw, I want the saw to adjust like a wood chop saw. Which means a base of some sort.I have some ideas on building one but I would like to see if somebody else has travelled this path before and did a smarter simpler design.
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ght=miter+chopIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Why doesn't a Fury 3 or Rage 3 work for you?__David Hillman
Reply:I want to cut bigger stock. The evolution model would be a SteelSaw 2, mine is a Jancy:http://jancy.com/index.cfm?fuseactio...&productid=124
Reply:None of those are cold saws. A cold saw is one that is cooled via flood coolant and generates a very slow and precise cut via mega slow rpms.Look up a MEP, Startrite, Dake, etc under Coldsaw. There is a significant difference in qualtiy of cut, price and design.I have a Startrite and it will leave a finish like a milling machine.Granthttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:COLD SAW:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_sawYes I know the difference, one is portable, yours is not, yours runs at a lot slower RPM's and has coolant, and some not all have built in miter capability, a lot better vise, and a lot more expensive.But I was clear I was talking about the smaller portable version.For my shop I would rather have the bigger version, but need to carry around on a truck on occasion, not happening.
Reply:Jackalope,Since you brought it up I am curious, how many cuts do you get on your wet version saw blades? I would think a lot more than the faster rpm smaller dry versions.
Reply:Where are you located?  I have a Kalamazoo/MEP saw that might be just the thing for you
Reply:Originally Posted by greenbuggyWhere are you located?  I have a Kalamazoo/MEP saw that might be just the thing for you
Reply:I have a Marathon cold saw (looks like a Scotchman), great machine. Very low rpm and as stated earlier great finish.I have often wondered how well the little handheld dry saws cut.Tim Beeker.
Reply:" I have often wondered how well the little handheld dry saws cut. "I demo'd the Jancy saw before I ordered one, they cut very good, don't feed too fast and keep a constant  steady blade pressure. Not quite as good as a milled cut but.... close very clean and much faster than a band saw.I also tested the skilsaw version of the metal saws, better than a skil saw with a metal blade considerably ( blades are way too fast on a skil saw ). These work well on thinner material 1/8 etc, I don't see them as a solution for heavier plate.
Reply:I will look into the Jancy. Sounds like it would be good in the shop and mobileTim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromJackalope,Since you brought it up I am curious, how many cuts do you get on your wet version saw blades? I would think a lot more than the faster rpm smaller dry versions.
Reply:Just an update on what I am planning is I am just about finished up my cutting table. I am going to set a saw table next to it. I made that table so slats are removable, so I can drop in two slats with conveyor rollers. Feed table done (almost)So the saw stand, originally my thought was find and cheapy benchtop drill press which wasn't good for much and steal the tube and the cast foot the tube fits in. That was the idea, I have been looking on my local CL and there really isn't anything, I had figured that somebody must have bought a Harbor Freight nightmare and after a couple of holes were dumping it. Not so every ad wanted way to much for their junk.So Plan #2 buy a foot, nope only sold with the tube. $40.00Alright plan #3 ( original before drill press stand idea ) DOM tube, knock a couple .003 off the OD on the lathe so it telescopes. Weld one to a 1/4plate, weld another to a top 1/4 plate. All of this sits behind the saw and takes up 4-5 inches vertical. Between the two plates use three stud mount ball transfers ( roller balls ), okay rigid on the rear, plate isn't warping cause the the ball transfers are supporting it.The DOM tube is the pivot point, then it just needs either a bolt, I am going to use a trailer pin( actually make on my lathe ) that drops into one of three holes, one for 90, one for 45. and one for 22.5 degrees, pretty much pull the pin, swivel and drop the pin. I will leave a spot that if I ever need to cut other than on of the three degrees above I can clamp to an odd degree. Saw will bolt down to the top plate but removable so I can undo a couple of bolts and put on the truck when needed. A last item I am considering will be to add a quick action vise to the right of the saw.Anyhow thats the plan, adding a forth stud mount ball transfer would probably save me a lot of time trying to precison fit the DOM tubes vertically. I will for sure refine and tweak the above plan a couple of times before execution.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromJust an update on what I am planning is I am just about finished up my cutting table. I am going to set a saw table next to it. I made that table so slats are removable, so I can drop in two slats with conveyor rollers. Feed table done (almost)So the saw stand, originally my thought was find and cheapy benchtop drill press which wasn't good for much and steal the tube and the cast foot the tube fits in. That was the idea, I have been looking on my local CL and there really isn't anything, I had figured that somebody must have bought a Harbor Freight nightmare and after a couple of holes were dumping it. Not so every ad wanted way to much for their junk.So Plan #2 buy a foot, nope only sold with the tube. $40.00Alright plan #3 ( original before drill press stand idea ) DOM tube, knock a couple .003 off the OD on the lathe so it telescopes. Weld one to a 1/4plate, weld another to a top 1/4 plate. All of this sits behind the saw and takes up 4-5 inches vertical. Between the two plates use three stud mount ball transfers ( roller balls ), okay rigid on the rear, plate isn't warping cause the the ball transfers are supporting it.The DOM tube is the pivot point, then it just needs either a bolt, I am going to use a trailer pin( actually make on my lathe ) that drops into one of three holes, one for 90, one for 45. and one for 22.5 degrees, pretty much pull the pin, swivel and drop the pin. I will leave a spot that if I ever need to cut other than on of the three degrees above I can clamp to an odd degree. Saw will bolt down to the top plate but removable so I can undo a couple of bolts and put on the truck when needed. A last item I am considering will be to add a quick action vise to the right of the saw.Anyhow thats the plan, adding a forth stud mount ball transfer would probably save me a lot of time trying to precison fit the DOM tubes vertically. I will for sure refine and tweak the above plan a couple of times before execution.
Reply:What table/stand is that?
Reply:That's a Porter Cable mobile miter saw stand PC136msGot it at Lowes and i looked at all the other one and they were not as sturdy as this oneBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck