yet more Lincoln sa-200 questions...

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I am starting to think that maybe I should have married a Lincoln mechanic when I bought this 1969 sa-200 redface. Thought she was good to go after a couple of months of mostly minor refurbishment. Been off work since 01/19, and my wife being the thoughtful gal she is, didn't want me to forget how to weld, so she went out and bought several thousand feet of 2 3/8 Schedule 40 so I could start putting up some horse fencing at our house.Welder starts and runs like the proverbial *raped ape*, but the idler does not seem to work. I know for a fact that it worked when I bought it, and none of the work I did on it involved anything on that side of the engine. Ill strike the arc, and instead of idling up, it loads the engine and idles it down. All the various levers/rods are free and move as they should.Also, I noticed that it will leak a small amount of oil that seems to be coming from directly under the governor, onto the welders frame that is right there. That was one place I couldn't get to when I was cleaning the engine back at the beginning of the project, so it is kinda hard to tell where it is coming from.Any of this sound familiar to anyone one... in other words HELP!!Skip
Reply:Vacuum or electronic idler?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:vacuum, i think? it has the solenoid with i think two wires that go into the generator, and a steel vacuum line that goes into the manifold. I have downloaded the .pdf file online for it, and I think I can wrap my brain around how it is supposed to operate, but as far a troubleshooting it... not so much!skip
Reply:Well skip, if you can get your arms around how the auto idler works, you'll be 99% of the way to troubleshooting the thing.Which manual do you have?  IM-179-G?  IM-277-A covers the electronic idler and IM-179-G.1 covers the vacuum unit as well but with larger cutaways for better detail.I would say before you head out in various different directions trying to figure it out, make sure you do in fact grasp how the idler functions and then walk yourself through it's operation systematically from start to finish according to the manual's description of operation.  Start with checking for the obvious such as loose/corroded connections or broken/shorted wires (on the vacuum version there's only two).  You may also find a failed idler solenoid, stuck vent valve or plugged vent passage - all internal to the idler unit.If I had to wager a guess I would say poor connection at the idler solenoid or stuck vent valve but as I said, check it out one functional step at a time.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:duane,I have both the 179G and 179G1 files. Yes, before I go anywhere near my toolbox, I am going to make 100% certain I understand how the idler functions. I know I could temporarily set it at high idle continuously, but now that we are in the triple digits here, I hate to do that to the old girl (not to mention the extra fuel costs)Thanks for the input, Ill keep you posted.skip
Reply:Okay, I haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet, but today I thought it would be constructive to unearth my tachometer and see exactly where the idle speed was right now. With the little pin on the idler not engaged, the engine is cranking along at 1290 RPM, which is probably too fast? I have looked at the manual, and am a little confused as to where you set the idle first, the carb or the governor? As far as the idler, I'm going to check the voltage on it tonight, I did check for continuity and any shorts to ground, no issues there.The search continues!skip
Reply:The idle speed is set with the carburetor idle stop screw. I'm not sure what the idle speed should be but you seem close. If you have an ohmmeter check the idler solenoid coil to see if it is open. If you can get at the diaphragm side of the idler (you might have to take it off of the machine to check this) there should be a rubber boot about 1-1/2 diameter over the top of the solenoid coil. Using a feeler gauge check for clearance between the solenoid plunger and the needle valve. It should be .020", and also make sure there is free movement of both the plunger and the needle valve. There should also be a return spring on the idle arm which connects the idler to the carb to help open the throttle when the solenoid is energized.Gary Haunemail  [email protected]  http://haunsystemsrepair.com
Reply:Awesome, thanks for the suggestions guys. I did throw my multimeter on the output terminals this morning when it was a idle (1290) and got about 77 - 78 VDC... is that in the ballpark at that idle speed?Thanks again for all the excellent input, much appreciated!skip
Reply:skiprrr, Your engine speeds should be:Idle - 1000High idle - 1550Full load - 1450Do not exceed the 1550 high idle speed or an increased exciter voltage will result and can damage the exciter circuit if high enough.  If the engine can't maintain the 1450 full load speed with a 1550 high idle speed and carb / timing adjustments are correct then it's most likely 'tired' and needs to be 'freshened up'.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!