Can't really see what I'm welding (MIG)

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Hey guys,  I'm running a Speedglass 100 auto darkening hood which I bought at the same time as my Mig welder.  I've tried all the settings it has and I still can't see much of anything once the arc starts except the bright arc itself.  I know I know you're not suposed to look at the arc! Right now it's set all the way down on 8.  My eyes are fine and I am not near or far sighted.  I do wear trifocal blended glasses under the hood too, so I can probably read the newspaper with the hood on until the arc starts, then I can only see about a 1/4 inch of the area around the arc.  So what happens is that sometimes my bead will wander off the line I'm trying to follow.  I end up grinding off most of what I put down. The helmet does respond to the darkening settings normally.  I also am running a high intensity light on the work table and this does seem to help. but not enough.  Is there some marker pen that shows up real bright while the arc is running and under the hood?  And can stand the heat?
Reply:A couple of things to try: 1. get a dedicated set of glasses set to the focal length you need for welding. Helped me immensely. Drape a cloth over the back of your hood to keep out ambient light. Also you can try a fixed shade hood. I find them to be better for MIG, better clarity. shade 8 sounds too low for MIG. You need to turn it up to 10 or 11 and add more light to the work surface. I bought a pretty cool LED worklight at Home Depot that cranks out like 800 lumens, very bright, without any added heat. works great.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:My eyes are bad, and I also need the progressive lenses or trifocals, but for welding, I use regular bifocals and a cheater that is strung enough for me to use the TOP portion of my glasses.That way, when I lift my hood, I still can see the world around me and be able to grind, inspect, etc.Also, the top portion of the glasses is much larger, making welding in different positions easier.My bigger issue is cataracts. Welding with them is like driving into a sunset with a dirty windshield!I plan to lose them the first quarter of next year.Last edited by geezerbill; 10-06-2015 at 08:35 AM.Hobart Beta-Mig 2511972 Miller AEAD-200LEMiller 250 TwinNorthern Ind. Hybrid 200Longevity Stick 140Longevity Migweld 200SThermal Arc Pak 3XR
Reply:I just had my cataracts fixed, haven't tried welding yet. Before the operation what I saw was a glare, could barely see welding in a corner and welding on a flat surface I would have to draw a line with a soapstone. I have three more days of eye drops and one more eye appointment. I'm now 77, but when I was younger I never had any trouble welding mig. So when I weld again after my last eye appointment and I still have a glare with the auto darkening helmet I'll get a regular helmet.  Now that said anyone with insurance and has cataracts needs to get them fixed.  Believe me it's the easiest operation you'll ever have.
Reply:Is this Flux Core MIG welding?
Reply:A few things that worked for me (I also had the "I can't see the puddle' issue. I wear bifocals for detail work.):- Loosen the helmet on the hinges and slide it forward. Retighten. That'll puts us looking through the 'reading' portion of our prescription lenses.- Reposition our head vs. the torch. Look from the side, not behind. - Find and focus on the base metal nearest the arc. Weld into our field of focus.- Do some practice welds, experimenting with head position and where to focus. Don't worry about weld quality for a few ounces of filler.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:Wow!  This forum is the place to be!  I think the glare from the inside of the helmet is the real problem. Come to think of it, I have my back to the bright sunlight coming thru the shop door glass most of the time while I'm welding, so there is a lot of light trying to get inside the helmet for sure.  The surface of the inside of the helmet is also slightly reflective as compared to flat black, so I am going to try covering the back of the helmet with a black T shirt first and see of that helps.  I'm pretty sure it will because any light inside the helmet will decrease the contrast between inside and outside.  Sort of like driving at night with the dash lights up too bright?  I know about that from flying at night.  If you have the panel lights up much at all, it kills your night vision outside the aircraft.  So I'm trying one thing at a time on some scrap material and see which one helps.  I really like all these ideas because they represent experience with this problem!  DOn't think I have cataracts yet, but I'll check that too!Thanks guys!  Will keep you updated as progress is achived.Tilerman6
Reply:I had a serious issue with trying to weld with bifocals. My prescription was too strong (-4.25) for cheaters.  But I used a 2.0 cheater from my local welding store and can look through that using the upper part of my bifocals and it's razor sharp at about 14-18 inches.  Wonderful!  Other strengths of cheaters move that "sharp zone" closer or further away.Regardless, the BEST thing to do is just get a pair of ordinary single-vision glasses prescribed for seeing at your welding range, and just wear those when you're welding.  They can be pretty cheap, with plain frames, etc.  No other solution comes close to this for solving this issue.-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Regardless, the BEST thing to do is just get a pair of ordinary single-vision glasses prescribed for seeing at your welding range, and just wear those when you're welding. They can be pretty cheap, with plain frames, etc. No other solution comes close to this for solving this issue.
Reply:So it sounds like the arc is just too bright. Have you checked to make sure the helmet actually darkens when it the arc starts? I've had helmets where the batteries died and and all I see is a bright arc.My "collection":Homemade Stick WelderVictor O/A TorchAC 225Ideal Arc 250HF 90 Amp Flux CoreHF Mig 170Solar 2020 Plasma CutterPower i-Mig 140EHarris O/A torchHF Dual Mig 131140STAlpha Tig 200x
Reply:What kind of joint gives you problems? I have had difficulty with a flat butt joint where it is difficult to see the joint line as opposed to a lap joint or a corner joint where you have an edge to follow. I have tried marking the weld line with chalk or some kind of marker with very little success. The most useful trick I have used is to lay a flat piece of steel close to (but not too close!) and parallel to the weld line. This will keep you from "wandering" too far from the weld line when there is no clear edge to follow.
Reply:Right now it's set all the way down on 8.
Reply:Go for a set of glasses for the distance eyes to puddle, with an old set of frames you can get single vision lens for $30 to $40. I use the ones I had made for computer use and they make a big difference in seeing the puddle and that makes a bid difference in quality of weld and it's appearance.  You cannot get your head to where you can see through the welding lens and the bottom of the tri-focal lens with out a lot of neck strain.
Reply:Half-eye and full field flip-up clip-on glasses can be found, here.I recommend the +3.00 diopter power for close work.  Keep in mind that the working distance of the power is the reciprocal value of the dioptric power in meters.  So, a +3.00 will provide a focus at 1/3 meter, (13").  A +2.00 will provide a focus at 1/2 meter (20").I am a retired optometrist and hobby welder.  I use a +3.50 diopter flip-up for tig.  I'll, gladly, try to answer any optical/vision questions. BTW... I find it much easier to see the puddle, and weld straight when pushing my mig, rather than pulling.Last edited by Weldordie; 10-07-2015 at 01:07 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by mwshaw You cannot get your head to where you can see through the welding lens and the bottom of the tri-focal lens with out a lot of neck strain.
Reply:[QUOTE=Weldordie;6361361]This is very true.  Any welder that thinks they can see adequately in a welding position with their bifocal or trifocal lenses are fighting a losing battle.  Once they try using the an auxiliary pair of lenses to allow use of straight ahead vision, they will kick themselves for not using them sooner.I'll agree with that. I wear trifocal glasses. I have found that I can see better by taking them off when welding. I have had the cataract surgery on my right eye. Now I have a lot better vision-but the prescription in my glasses hampers my welding. I just put on safety glasses and use a cheater in my hood.
Reply:This prolly won't help with MIG, but it certainly will help lots with gas torch cutting if you are having trouble staying 'on the cut line':Take a sharp center punch and dimple the cut line about every 1/4" or 1/2"...just takes a minute and you ain't gotta use lots of force....As the torch approaches, the raised dimples light up like runway lights
Reply:I think most of the problem lies with these auto darkening hoods.   I have yet to look thru one that has any where near the clarity that I get from a passive Phillips Athermal (green glass, gold coated) lens.   I've been working with a lot of new hires (mostly young and right out of school) that show up with these high dollar auto darkening hoods and almost with out exception they have to get their head so close to the puddle it's unbelievable.   I watched one test the other week that had his head so close to the test plate he could barely travel the length of it.   I wear no line bifocals and have a 1.50 cheater in my hood (behind a Phillips shade 12) and can start out at full arms extension and weld towards me and keep everything clearly in focus up until about a foot in front of the hood.
Reply:You can also draw a couple of parallel soapstone lines next to the line on which you want to run your bead. The soapstone lines light up bright from the arc.
Reply:I've  read that the Markal silver-streak pens are super good at remaining illuminated close to the arc.....I ordered two off Amazon but forgot til now and they ain't arrived, so better go check.I also read that they work very well except when applied to shiny clean metal, so it was suggested I buy their red markers when that occurred.
Reply:Adding more light to the work piece will definitely help. Another choice would be to get a different hood. I highly recommend the Accu-strike hood by Cherokee Industries. It looks very gimmicky, and when looking at it, you can tell it's been made very "economically", but at $100, it's cheaper than a name brand autohood and works wonders. I've been meaning to get another one after leaving my other one in Australia. It's basically a cross between a fixed lens and auto lens. There is a chin strap inside that you use to lift the lens with your jaw. So you can open your jaw just a little to crack the lens up so you can see your weld, then close your jaw to lower the lens and start welding. When I use a fixed hood, I only use gold lenses. You can see much more and in color with gold lenses.
Reply:Originally Posted by TheBFAAdding more light to the work piece will definitely help. Another choice would be to get a different hood. I highly recommend the Accu-strike hood by Cherokee Industries. It looks very gimmicky, and when looking at it, you can tell it's been made very "economically", but at $100, it's cheaper than a name brand autohood and works wonders. I've been meaning to get another one after leaving my other one in Australia. It's basically a cross between a fixed lens and auto lens. There is a chin strap inside that you use to lift the lens with your jaw. So you can open your jaw just a little to crack the lens up so you can see your weld, then close your jaw to lower the lens and start welding. When I use a fixed hood, I only use gold lenses. You can see much more and in color with gold lenses.
Reply:Originally Posted by Wheelman 4I just had my cataracts fixed, haven't tried welding yet. Before the operation what I saw was a glare, could barely see welding in a corner and welding on a flat surface I would have to draw a line with a soapstone. I have three more days of eye drops and one more eye appointment. I'm now 77, but when I was younger I never had any trouble welding mig. So when I weld again after my last eye appointment and I still have a glare with the auto darkening helmet I'll get a regular helmet.  Now that said anyone with insurance and has cataracts needs to get them fixed.  Believe me it's the easiest operation you'll ever have.
Reply:Well, the Amazon Markal pencils never arrived...first time Amazon ever let me down, but at least today they shipped replacements overnight shipped free(once I fingered out how to tell them their stuff was AWOL)....Sorry It took this long for me to respond...Maybe tomorrow I can post how they work.
Reply:I use fixed distance glasses to weld with And yes you need darker setting than 8 more like 10 or 11 tintNever have been able to see the silver  lines drawn with those markers mostly just practice will get you theretrailblazer 302thunderbolt ac dc machine Hobart fluxcoreAHP tig 200x 2015Originally Posted by Louie1961A couple of things to try: 1. get a dedicated set of glasses set to the focal length you need for welding. Helped me immensely. Drape a cloth over the back of your hood to keep out ambient light. Also you can try a fixed shade hood. I find them to be better for MIG, better clarity. shade 8 sounds too low for MIG. You need to turn it up to 10 or 11 and add more light to the work surface. I bought a pretty cool LED worklight at Home Depot that cranks out like 800 lumens, very bright, without any added heat. works great.
Reply:not colorblind by chance, are you?    that will affect your ability to see the puddle and surrounding area depending on the hood you are using.  8 is really low for arc welding.   10 or up usually better.  only time I have used 8 is for really low DC tig below 20 ampsTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:"I want to hold the Mig torch closer to the metal business end of the stinger"I'm not sure your gloves can take the heat closer to weld.  More plyiable gloves helped me with torch control. I also find that running a couple of beads on scrap now and then help's me get back in the groove before working on the project.  Just seem's to boost confidence a little,esp when new settings are called for or it's been several days since I worked on the project.
Reply:Southpaw,  I'm not color blind, and as far as I know, reading glasses are specified for their magnification power and not their focal length?.  But you might have some type of glasses that ARE specified for focal length?  I cannot say they don't exist. If you would be so kind as to point me to them?Also, I now have a magnifying lens in the hood that is 2.25 power and it must have a focal length of something like 12 to 16 inches because that's about the distance I work at. I might try using the 2.25 lens I have  inside the hood with no glasses on and see what that's like.  Easy to try.   And thanks for the suggestions!!