need some info for welding 1/16"........

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with a Lincoln 225 arc with what rods and what setting....I have most of what I needed welded but got some blow out holes to fill....I get good welds with 1/8" 6013 and filled some blow outs with them as well, I also have 3/32" 6011 that seem to burn way to hot for what I use doing....any tips will be greatly appreciated, thx....
Reply:idk what your skill level is but i would forget the 1/8" rod for now on this material. you could try close spacing small tacks along the length of the joint using a 3/32" rod then try welding the joint after it cools a bit.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Trying to stick weld with rods that are thicker than the base material is tough to accomplish without a lot of skill. Your best bet would be to drop down to 1/16" of 5/64" rods..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If you have the "AC/DC" version of the 225, use "DC-" first and foremost for 1/16".  However, I'm assuming you only have the "AC" version.  AC penetrates deeper in the steel than does DC-.   Anyway, I would stick (pun intended) with 6013 exclusively, as those are designed best for thin metal.  I'd forget ever using the deeper penetrating rod of 6011.   Just clean the surface steel first of all rust, dirt, scale and oil prior to ever using 6013.  Also, keep a tight arc with 6013 or else you'll have the dreaded porosity "worm holes."   Also, I welded up some 1/16" with my buzz box for grins and giggles.  Instead of using 3/32", I used the even smaller 5/64" diameter Lincoln 6013's.  I had to order them online because I've never found them anywhere.  I have seen the "Forney" brand, but the Lincoln's had much better "wet-out" with a more stable arc when I compared the two.  Avoid the ultra thin 1/16" electrodes as they are really difficult to handle, unless you're an expert stick welder to begin with.  They are really a PITA! You might also have to back step the welds.   Your welds would look like this with the "arrow" (<) being your electrode's direction of travel, as well as the "stop/starting point of each subsequent weld bead.   You start each section of the weld bead on the right and move the electrode in the direction of the arrows on the left side.   You pause in between welds to let each pass cool slightly. <---------------------<------------------<--------------------<----------------------<------------------------     Weld.......#1......................#2.............  ............#3......................#4............  ..............#5.........Etc....etc...The back stepping process greatly helps to prevent weld "blow-through" of the base metal.  It's a way to control the heat.Last edited by SuperArc; 07-07-2014 at 06:15 AM.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Try 1/16 6013or7014 rods and do short stitches letting each weld cool between
Reply:hey thx guys, i have forgotten what number and thickness to use when for stick....I have bout 5/6 years welding experience, but 70% with mig with stick for the rest....but that was almost 20 years ago....I used to work for a welding place that made home depot's orange racks....I just picked up the Lincoln 225 arc for what I need to do, planning on making a smoker from a 250 gal propane tank....what I'm trying to weld 1/16" is my old but good char broil side firebox smoker into a reverse flow smoker....friends call me MacGyver, cause I make anything from something        now they want me to make anything from nothing
Reply:So you welded for 10 month, 20 yrs ago? Are you sure the grill is 1/16, not thinner? or are you patching with 1/16"?much easier to weld fillets or laps than butt on 1/16".  I would use 3/32 rod. I  don't like 1/16 rods, I tend to burn them up.
Reply:Sounds like a good reason to buy a mig machine. Or, find someone who has one to try. Then, you will be going to buy one of your own.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderSo you welded for 10 month, 20 yrs ago? Are you sure the grill is 1/16, not thinner? or are you patching with 1/16"?
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Sounds like a good reason to buy a mig machine. Or, find someone who has one to try. Then, you will be going to buy one of your own.
Reply:Originally Posted by bob1961no I was a welder for 5/6 years, 20 years ago....yes the metal on the grill is 1/16" thick or 16 gauge or whatever you want it to be....the cut out from the hole I cut out where new stack place will be, welding the round stack in the hole was easy....the piece I cut out from new hole I used to fill old hole and that butt joint piece is being the issue welding it in the old hole....everything I go to weld is sanded/ground clean before welding....I just don't remember the amp settings for what thickness and rod to use, like said it's been 20 years !!....
Reply:nice link thx....friends call me MacGyver, cause I make anything from something        now they want me to make anything from nothing
Reply:Couple of people  --  DSW, Dave J.  -- have mentioned not using wire thicker than the work.  Good rule, and easy to remember because it is logical:  In a general way, the amount of heat it takes to melt a wire of [I]x[I]-thickness is going to be more than the amount of heat it takes to punch a hole through work of <x thickness.  1/16 stock is going to be delicate going no matter what you use, but you can tip the odds just a bit in your favor with steps that keep the heat within bounds.  The step welding suggestion mentioned earlier is an example.  There are others.  If you're running DC, for instance, straight polarity might give you somwhat less penetration than DCEP.                                -Marty-
Reply:well update, the smoker I'm trying to change up is 4 years old and weathered in that same 4 years....not sure if that changes metal in any way....but I went with smaller dia 6013 rods, lowered the amp setting on my lincoln 225 ac arc so low it wouold start an arc....turned it up and tried again until I got arc but blew through still....off to my buddy's house with a mig  ....friends call me MacGyver, cause I make anything from something        now they want me to make anything from nothing
Reply:Originally Posted by bob1961hey thx guys, i have forgotten what number and thickness to use when for stick....I have bout 5/6 years welding experience, but 70% with mig with stick for the rest....but that was almost 20 years ago....I used to work for a welding place that made home depot's orange racks....I just picked up the Lincoln 225 arc for what I need to do, planning on making a smoker from a 250 gal propane tank....what I'm trying to weld 1/16" is my old but good char broil side firebox smoker into a reverse flow smoker....
Reply:oh no this is an old char broil smoker, but you do need to use a whole bottle or 3 of dawn dish soap when you fill it with water at least 3 times before going to town on it....that is the best stuff to use when working with used propane tanks....friends call me MacGyver, cause I make anything from something        now they want me to make anything from nothing