Arc welding noob

admin

Hey guys, I've been wanting to get into arc welding for a little while now, and have been doing a bit of research (a lot of it here). Well, I finally bought an arc welder yesterday, and Hobart Stickmate AC/DC. I have a little mig experience (slef taught so probably nothing worth noting), but this is my first experience burning rod. A little different to get used too, a steeper learning curve but that was expected. I think the greater skill required to be successful arc welding is part of what turned me on to it. Anyway, I hope this is ok but this seemed like a good place to post a few pics of some practice runs and hopefully the resident pro's don't mind letting me know if I'm on the right track and what I should focus on before I develop too terrible of techniques. Right now all I have is a big box of Hobart 6011 1/8" rod's and a bit of 3/16" and 1/4 scrap metal, so that's what I'm working with.  I read a few comments and had a friend of a friend mention in a class he's taking that they started with 6011's and at about 90 amps. I had a hard time not sticking the rod and getting a good arc started there. I remember reading increasing amps helps and thought I remember reading a few guys like welding on the top side of the amp range so I went to 115-120 amps. Much easier. After a few practice arc starts and a few beads that I won't show (threw away to hide the evidence lol) this is what I was able to come up with. I wasn't be 6-8 rods in by this point and starting to get the feel of moving closer to my work as the rod burned, and keeping a 'feel' for arc length. Those were yesterday evening and on a 1/4" scrap (yes that coincidentally looks like a superman symbol, but that was not its intent before it was scrapped lol) I don't feel too bad about them. Practice practice practice though, and that's the plan. So today I ran a few more practice beads and played around with walking the voltage down. Then I started on a pad of beads. These were done on 3/16" scrap if that matters. But at about 100 amps. All DCEP, I should have mentioned earlier. If these beads and pictures aren't very helpful, I guess with the twist of and arm I can burn a few more  or take new pics. I don't feel too bad about it, not sure if they are any good but I feel they are somewhat consistent (I think, for a beginner). I wish the beads looked better but I understand that not necessarily a strong point of a 6010/6011 rod. Does it look like I'm on the right track, or can you really tell? I was too lazy to get out any saws today but I want to start working on some joints. I guess I don't really know of my welds are any good until I am joining metal and really looking for penetration. I feel like I was getting some dig in on these beads though. Doing the pad of beads today, I think I was starting to notice the effects of too short vs. too long arc lengths. I know I could still use some work on my whip and pause consistency though.Thanks for looking and any help is appreciated.SeanMiller CST 280Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:not bad at all. turn that practice piece around and make longer beads. padding is good practice.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Those look like nice 6011 beads to me. Definitely turn the pad and run the long way on top of what you have already done.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Really nice work. Try some 7014 or 7018 next. You can drag the flux lightly on the metal, and you don't have to focus on arc length so much. Let's you focus on rod angle and speed of progressionMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:When stick welding your arc length can be used to somewhat control your heat. A longer arc increases arc voltage thus slightly increasing heat. A shorter arc decreases arc voltage this slightly reducing heat. Amperage aka current stays constant.You have a crater at the end of each bead. You need to try to fill that in by pausing for a second at the end of the bead before breaking your arc. Pausing for a second will help fill in the crater.Last edited by snoeproe; 07-19-2014 at 10:20 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Thanks! I feel like I'm getting the hang of it, but there will be lots of practice to come. I will work on some longer runs tomorrow as well as some joints. 7018's are definitely next on the list.SeanMiller CST 280Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:I give you a lot of credit. I am also self taught, and when I started it was strictly 6013 and 7014. It took me a while to dive into 6011. I found 6011 to be more difficult to run at first. I think the fact that you are making such good 6011 beads is a sign that you are well on your way. all the other rods are going to be a piece of cake for you.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:I like your signature line BTW...looks quite familiar. Nice setup! Now you need a gas torch and TIG torch.  Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Nice and straight.  You have a steady hand.
Reply:If that's only 24 hours of playing with it, you are really on the right track there.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961I give you a lot of credit. I am also self taught, and when I started it was strictly 6013 and 7014. It took me a while to dive into 6011. I found 6011 to be more difficult to run at first. I think the fact that you are making such good 6011 beads is a sign that you are well on your way. all the other rods are going to be a piece of cake for you.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12V71If that's only 24 hours of playing with it, you are really on the right track there.
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeWhen stick welding your arc length can be used to somewhat control your heat. A longer arc increases arc voltage thus slightly increasing heat. A shorter arc decreases arc voltage this slightly reducing heat. Amperage aka current stays constant.You have a crater at the end of each bead. You need to try to fill that in by pausing for a second at the end of the bead before breaking your arc. Pausing for a second will help fill in the crater.
Reply:Just came across this post, gotta say your beads aren't looking too bad. I may have missed it but are you running A/C or D/C ? This makes a world of difference. AC will always produce more spatter because your current flows both directions, D/C current is one direction so you get a constant flow of power and filler in a single direction. (If you already knew that, sorry for making you read that)I find that somewhere between 120-130 amps D/C is the sweet spot for a 7018 on my thunderbolt with around the same thickness your running, and don't worry if your not using a fully digital machine which most stick welders aren't than everything is calibrated by  (ISH) measurements!If you find yourself cutting a little deep or needing more filler don't be afraid to "dig that rod into the pool" (very tight arc without sticking the rod) and slow down a little bit as you back out. But remember  more filler = less heat so be sure to adjust your speed and keep that puddle hot. Uniform penetration makes for a uniform bead.Anyway just my two cents and good luck, your definitely on the right trackReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99Just came across this post, gotta say your beads aren't looking too bad. I may have missed it but are you running A/C or D/C ? This makes a world of difference. AC will always produce more spatter because your current flows both directions, D/C current is one direction so you get a constant flow of power and filler in a single direction. (If you already knew that, sorry for making you read that)I find that somewhere between 120-130 amps D/C is the sweet spot for a 7018 on my thunderbolt with around the same thickness your running, and don't worry if your not using a fully digital machine which most stick welders aren't than everything is calibrated by  (ISH) measurements!If you find yourself cutting a little deep or needing more filler don't be afraid to "dig that rod into the pool" (very tight arc without sticking the rod) and slow down a little bit as you back out. But remember  more filler = less heat so be sure to adjust your speed and keep that puddle hot. Uniform penetration makes for a uniform bead.Anyway just my two cents and good luck, your definitely on the right track