Clausing 12x24 ?

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Yep, still looking for the right deal.......( re past post asking about used lathes)What's the opinion on this machine? Looks pretty clean from the photo's but those with lathe knowledge have better eyes to see with. The price is still a bit high, especially when compared to what you gents in the US can get one for. But, for being on the island, it's cheaper than others that have come up.  It's as big as I'd go/have space for, some there's no need for cheers of "GO BIGGER" Thoughts from those in the know are greatly appreciated once again, as always!!!!http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...rking_16532466200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:looks to be in pretty good shape. There really in nothing wrong with a belt and leadscrew machine but I think a geared head is a little easier and quicker to use.I dont really think the money is too bad especially if its close to you like you say. A little reading over on practical machinist may help you make up your mind. Regards
Reply:Go spend an hour looking it over, gears, ways, spindle run out. It actually looks real good, price with tooling is not overpriced, look up the pieces individually.I would go with cash in hand because if its in good shape if you don't jump on it somebody like me will.
Reply:No quick change gear box for threading.  make sure you have all the gears.  It looks like there is a stack at the end of the bed.  As long as it is running it would be hard to lose.  The pair of chucks would run you close to 500 used and more new if you had to purchase separately.
Reply:I've got a Clausing 6329 12 x 36 from about the same vintage. That lathe APPEARS to be pretty clean, and well equipped w/ steady & follow rest; 3&4 jaw chucks.  Only drawback is lack of QC gear box, but if you have the change gears AND the time, your choice. I'd offer $8-900.  Clausing as well as a couple of used dealers still have support for these lathes.
Reply:Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to call him about it. Got 12" of snow today so it will be a bit until I can get out! 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by CarlHlooks to be in pretty good shape. There really in nothing wrong with a belt and leadscrew machine but I think a geared head is a little easier and quicker to use.I dont really think the money is too bad especially if its close to you like you say. A little reading over on practical machinist may help you make up your mind. Regards
Reply:Originally Posted by dunemetalI've got a Clausing 6329 12 x 36 from about the same vintage. That lathe APPEARS to be pretty clean, and well equipped w/ steady & follow rest; 3&4 jaw chucks.  Only drawback is lack of QC gear box, but if you have the change gears AND the time, your choice. I'd offer $8-900.  Clausing as well as a couple of used dealers still have support for these lathes.
Reply:Put simply, it is the ratio of leadscrew rotation vs spindle. Cutting screw threads, that lathe probably will cut from 4 tpi to 112 tpi as most lathes of that size do. Mortals like us tend to thread at a slower spindle rotation than production rates say 60-150 rpm. The change gear combination , when added to the drivetrain (at left end of headstock) will give you the set up for the particular feed or threading requirement. However, you can thread at 40 rpm(my lathe's slowest speed) or however faster you choose. Threading at faster spindle speeds will give you a better finish but faster can be a bit dicey or even dangerous if you are trying to engage/disengage the halfnuts or threading up to a shoulder. This , of course, is if you are threading towards the headstock.Your first question: A couple of minutes to change gearing I suppose. I've always had a QCGB so I'm guessing2nd Q: Yes, but it is the feed rate that is adjusted (rate of apron on powerfeed/halfnuts driven by leadscrew) Remember, rate of feed. Hope this helps, if not ask again.
Reply:Originally Posted by dunemetalPut simply, it is the ratio of leadscrew rotation vs spindle. Cutting screw threads, that lathe probably will cut from 4 tpi to 112 tpi as most lathes of that size do. Mortals like us tend to thread at a slower spindle rotation than production rates say 60-150 rpm. The change gear combination , when added to the drivetrain (at left end of headstock) will give you the set up for the particular feed or threading requirement. However, you can thread at 40 rpm(my lathe's slowest speed) or however faster you choose. Threading at faster spindle speeds will give you a better finish but faster can be a bit dicey or even dangerous if you are trying to engage/disengage the halfnuts or threading up to a shoulder. This , of course, is if you are threading towards the headstock.Your first question: A couple of minutes to change gearing I suppose. I've always had a QCGB so I'm guessing2nd Q: Yes, but it is the feed rate that is adjusted (rate of apron on powerfeed/halfnuts driven by leadscrew) Remember, rate of feed. Hope this helps, if not ask again.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderOK, so QCGB is just for threading. Not looking to do any threading. Just bibs and bobs for sculpture. So all I'll be changing will be rotational speed of the work piece. Are those the gear's on the end of the lath, behind that shroud or is work piece speed changed with the belt and pulleys? Thanks for the info!
Reply:Originally Posted by dunemetalThreading and feed. The QCGB or change gears do the same thing as I posted before. It determines how far the apron/carriage assembly advances per spindle revolution. The leadscrew is what drives the apron whether you have engaged the longitudinal powerfeed or the halfnuts. Suppose you want to cut some threads in some .500" stock at 13 tpi. You either select the proper change gears to put on the gearing drivetrain or select the proper position of levers on the QC box (which is just a selection of change gears anyway). When you power up, the toolbit will cut a path around the circumference of the shaft 13 times in one inch of travel. It is the relationship between the spindle and the leadscrew. Whether you are threading or turning, you typically select a feedrate. If you wanted to reduce something from 1" diameter down to .750", you would use your powerfeed, select a proper feed per revolution, proper depth of cut and go to town. Threading is the same except you use the half nuts with a threading dial, proper feed, etc.If you are just looking to turn/shape, you'd likely not have many gear changes unless you changed mat'l.Am I making sense?Looked the pics again. Change gears appear to be stacked up on right side of first pic. The spindle speed  is probably changed  via belt changes on pulleys under cover on far left of lathe. In the middle of lathe bed you can see the apron. On left side the large hand wheel is apron handwheel for manual movement. In middle of apron is a six pointed little wheel, this should be the clutch for engaging powerfeeds, to right of that is which should be the halfnut engagement lever (for threading only, not deeper cuts)It is really not complicated, lots of educational material to read, people to learn from.
Reply:Bert:As best I can tell, the lathe is a 100 series Mk2 model. The six pointed wheel on apron is for power CROSS feed. The longitudinal feed is via the half nuts(also and typically used for threading). Late 40's vintage and comparable in quality to the South Bends, Logans and Sheldons.http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing/page6.html   Good reference here in the linkLast edited by dunemetal; 01-19-2012 at 06:50 PM.
Reply:Bert the welder.May I suggest you google the following book "How to run a lathe" by Southbend Lathe.The company no longer exists however you can find originals and copies on EBay. It is a good book for people just learning or relearning how to run a lathe. All the best in your future endeavoursHarold MulderHarold MulderMiller 211 AutosetHTP 201 Invertig with water coolerHardinge Cataract Quick Change Lathe
Reply:Thanks guys!!!! I'll look up both.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:By the way Bert are you enjoying the weather?? Spent 4 years there 90-94 working in the Dockyard at the Rescue Coordination Centre and enjoyed every minute. Never had the snow your having this year though..Harold MulderMiller 211 AutosetHTP 201 Invertig with water coolerHardinge Cataract Quick Change Lathe
Reply:Did you go look at it? Buy it?A question and a comment. What is the thru hole on the lathe, might not make since now but it will later, small is not good, a 1 -1/4 or 1 3/8 is good not great but good. My southbend which I like a lot my main complaint is the small 1" ish through thru hole.Perfect would be 2-2-1/2 thruComment: Check over the tooling chucks, holders etc. The lathe is cheap the tooling gets pricey quick, I just bought a 1/2 ball cutter, about $40.00 ( US made ), look at the brand on the 4 jaw chuck they even used are pricey.Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by haroldmulderBy the way Bert are you enjoying the weather?? Spent 4 years there 90-94 working in the Dockyard at the Rescue Coordination Centre and enjoyed every minute. Never had the snow your having this year though..
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromDid you go look at it? Buy it?A question and a comment. What is the thru hole on the lathe, might not make since now but it will later, small is not good, a 1 -1/4 or 1 3/8 is good not great but good. My southbend which I like a lot my main complaint is the small 1" ish through thru hole.Perfect would be 2-2-1/2 thruComment: Check over the tooling chucks, holders etc. The lathe is cheap the tooling gets pricey quick, I just bought a 1/2 ball cutter, about $40.00 ( US made ), look at the brand on the 4 jaw chuck they even used are pricey.Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromDid you go look at it? Buy it?A question and a comment. [B]What is the thru hole on the [/B]lathe, might not make since now but it will later, small is not good, a 1 -1/4 or 1 3/8 is good not great but good. My southbend which I like a lot my main complaint is the small 1" ish through thru hole.Perfect would be 2-2-1/2 thruComment: Check over the tooling chucks, holders etc. The lathe is cheap the tooling gets pricey quick, I just bought a 1/2 ball cutter, about $40.00 ( US made ), look at the brand on the 4 jaw chuck they even used are pricey.Good luck.
Reply:Now your going to get me to check I know a 5C collet setup was available for my lathe as I am collecting the pieces ( stock factory Southbend ) to set this up.....HMMMMA .75 thru hole is a real bummer, again its what you want to do with it though you might not care. Definately limiting if your ever planning on doing any rifle barrel/action work or any big shaft work.For me that would be the deal breaker though, my next lathe will have a bigger thru.
Reply:Yeah, I'll check it. But I think, even if it's 3/4", it should be fine. If I use it to turn down conical spear points, 3/4 should be fine. How deep does the hole go? Is it right out the other side( I'm thinking no) or does it stop inside at some point? If I ever need a spear point on the end of a bigger dia. rod, I can always make the spear point from shorter stock and graft it on.Rain is washing away the snow nicely.......whoot!200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Little voice in my head is whispering. I took another look at the photo's, and the lathe doesn't look like it belongs there in the photo. As in bought and is being flipped. That and he doesn't know if some of the gears are missing. If it's your machine, you know, I'd think.There's this one. It looks more like it belongs there, all be it it's been cleaned up. Looks like he's got another lathe and is maybe thinning out the shop. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...Lathe_15846102Thoughts?200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromNow your going to get me to check I know a 5C collet setup was available for my lathe as I am collecting the pieces ( stock factory Southbend ) to set this up.....HMMMMA .75 thru hole is a real bummer, again its what you want to do with it though you might not care. Definately limiting if your ever planning on doing any rifle barrel/action work or any big shaft work.For me that would be the deal breaker though, my next lathe will have a bigger thru.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderYeah, I'll check it. But I think, even if it's 3/4", it should be fine. If I use it to turn down conical spear points, 3/4 should be fine. [B]How deep does the [/B]hole go? Is it right out the other side( I'm thinking no) or does it stop inside at some point? If I ever need a spear point on the end of a bigger dia. rod, I can always make the spear point from shorter stock and graft it on.Rain is washing away the snow nicely.......whoot!