Gym Equipment - Ceiling Height Tower

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Not even sure what to call this thing but I needed to come up with a way to have a climbing rope and heavy bag in the gym without affixing anything to the walls or ceiling.This is by far the biggest scale project I have welded yet considering everything else has fit inside my little 1 car garage shop.No welding yet, I have a ton of holes to drill first. I would love for it to incorporate a barbell setup like a regular power rack but then I would have to rent a mag drill to drill 3/4" holes all over the uprights.Anyway heres the design and where I am so far. The yard only sells stuff in 24' foot pieces unless you want to pay a cut fee so I got creative to make them fit in the pickup truck.The upright sides are welded and all the cross sections will be bolted to the uprights by a 1/4" plate. Its 5' wide by 4' deep, about 11.5' tall.Attachment 836081Attachment 836091Attachment 836101
Reply:You may regret all that grinding dust on the concrete.....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou may regret all that grinding dust on the concrete....
Reply:My driveway looks like a topology map of rusty rivers. It's ok though because it covers up some of the oil stains. GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelMy driveway looks like a topology map of rusty rivers. It's ok though because it covers up some of the oil stains.
Reply:Neat project. Maybe consider setting saw on a table to save your back or even a couple of saw horses and a piece of plywood. Would supplier let use use power to cut material with your saw ? A battery grinder would work for a few cuts. They eat batteries pretty quick. As for the holes, depending on your location, maybe sub those out. It could be less time and more economical then renting.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Neat project. Maybe consider setting saw on a table to save your back or even a couple of saw horses and a piece of plywood. Would supplier let use use power to cut material with your saw ? A battery grinder would work for a few cuts. They eat batteries pretty quick. As for the holes, depending on your location, maybe sub those out. It could be less time and more economical then renting.
Reply:Where are you. I could knock those holes out on my Bridgeport for you in no time and they would all be in line. Make a fence for your drill press to get the holes in line if you could.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSWhere are you. I could knock those holes out on my Bridgeport for you in no time and they would all be in line. Make a fence for your drill press to get the holes in line if you could.
Reply:Fence on the drill press would be my 1st suggestion. If you have multiple identical holes, some times it can pay to make up a jig as well as the fence. The jig is usually a base plate with a hole spaced the exact distance as you next hole. Drill hole #1, then slide it down until it lines up with the hole in the jig. Drop a bolt thru both to keep things aligned, then clamp and drill #2. Repeat as needed.When doing holes like this using a fence, I'll spend a fair amount of time setting things up with scrap. One thing is to make sure your holes are dead center. I'll usually center punch and set the fence, then drill the hole and flip the piece 180 deg and see if the hole still aligns with the drill bit. If it doesn't, your fence is off. Reset and try again. Nothing worse then accidentally filling a piece and having holes no longer line up after all that work.I've done the same thing when I have to do "portable" work as well. Take a piece of angle or tube and set up the holes to be centered on your stock, and drill both the 1st and 2nd holes in the jig. Drill your 1st hole in the piece, then slide the jig and pin and clamp it, and then drill #2. Continue as needed. If you have a large number to drill, or it's for serious production, you might think about using hardened drill guide tacked to your jig so you don't wallow the holes after a few dozen and things stay accurate.Nice thing is if you get the jig set up dead center of the work piece, you can flip the jig if need be and not change the hole locations or spacing. Really helpful if drilling in existing stock..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I only have a small bench top drill press it's hard to make jigs for that tiny table.I was thinking more along the lines of making a 1/4" template and using that same piece with a transfer punch to mark every hole.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestI only have a small bench top drill press it's hard to make jigs for that tiny table.I was thinking more along the lines of making a 1/4" template and using that same piece with a transfer punch to mark every hole.
Reply:I'm going to use 3/8 bolts. Should I drill a 3/8 hole or 7/16-1/2" hole to make assembly easier?
Reply:7/16 min but 1/2" would be better.Using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestI only have a small bench top drill press it's hard to make jigs for that tiny table.
Reply:Do you have any pictures of this jig with index holes? I'm not fully understanding this by the description.
Reply:I don't have any of my own, but maybe these can explain it some.The 1st two picts are sort of the way I was doing it. Instead of the hole and pin on the fence as in pict 1, I had the hole drilled in the plywood sheet underneath the board shown in pict #2. Instead of the pin dropping down thru the guide hole into the drilled piece, I dropped the pin thru the drilled piece into the hole in the base if that makes sense.The 3rd pict is just another way of accomplishing something very similar using the shelf standard to set distance. That way would allow you to change spacings if you didn't want all the holes exactly the same distance apart for some reason, though I've also seen similar things done by simply having a 2nd "stop" as shown in pict 1 farther down the fence and you just change which hole you put the pin in.Oh pegboard is also useful to do this at times, but in your case I think the holes would be too small to be useful as is..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Hmmm maybe keep that in my back pocket for the future I think for this project it will take me longer than just drilling holes.Side note, I'm a dummy and started cutting my 1/4" by 2" flat to 4" in length when it needed to be 6.  So now I have 13 of the 14 mounting plates I need and no more flat stock... Gonna butt weld two of my mistakes back together I guess.No welds yet just checking my fitup.Attachment 837701
Reply:My set of $8 transfer punches from harbor frieght could not have worked better for this.I made a dead accurate template and used it to transfer punch all the other plates.After I got set up it took an hour and a half to get it all pilot drilled and drill a 1/2" hole. It's 1/4" so it wasn't too fun but to my surprise all the holes are within 1/64 I would guess of matching the template.You really don't appreciate the time that goes into stuff like this or why shops charge what you may think is an outrageous price until you actually do it yourself.The one with all the dykem on it was obviously the template. The dykem dried very strangely on the stock. Usually it dries in a nice smooth glazed over finish it almost absorbed into the material like a sponge and left a flat surface but it still scribed well.Attachment 838741Attachment 838931Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 09-10-2014 at 11:02 PM.
Reply:Can anyone suggest my best bet for prepping this thing for paint? Half the pieces are clean and the other half were clearly kept outside at the yard. Do I just need to suck it up and sit there with a cup brush? Can I prime/paint over the rust? Spray bottle of muriatic acid?Here's a weld I took a pic of for the heck of it. I know I probably should have cleaned up the ends but it's getting welded on all 4 sides I figure there's no chance of it ever having an issue with the loads that will be on it. All being done on a hobart 210mvp, unfortunately on 110v. No power source available for 220 so I'm maxed out on the 110.In total I have had to layout, pilot and drill a total of 84 1/2" holes. EXHAUSTING!Attachment 842681Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 09-13-2014 at 06:31 PM.
Reply:They make rust conversion primers. They work well when it's only light surface rust and finish isn't as critical as it can be on some projects. Sand blasting might also be an option.On the cheap, when in doubt  the old stand by, Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It does a decent job on light to medium rust. Wire brushing really doesn't get rid of the rust, it just polishes it. If I do that it's almost always Rustoleum Rusty metal primer that I'm going to hit it with..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Made some good headway today. Probably about 5-6 hours worth. Drilling the holes was complete misery. I accidentally mis-measured 4 sets of bolt holes because it had to be higher for pull-up bar. So I had to plug the holes and drill 8 more.Anyway here's where I'm at. All that's left is to wire wheel the loose rust off, buildThe pull-up bar and punching bag attatchment. Attachment 844531Attachment 844541Attachment 844551Attachment 844561
Reply:Threw it together to make sure everything fit nicely. Gonna grind down a couple welds that displace the cross bars a little.It's probably going to be sent for powder coat. It still needs a few more pieces.Attachment 846041
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelMy driveway looks like a topology map of rusty rivers. It's ok though because it covers up some of the oil stains.
Reply:Right all the stains will be in the street.shop vac? rolley magnet thing? compressed air to blow any left overs away...Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Any tricks for getting the rusted grinding flakes off an asphalt driveway once they're there?
Reply:Originally Posted by el bobAny tricks for getting the rusted grinding flakes off an asphalt driveway once they're there?
Reply:On it's way to the powder coater. Glad I don't have to paint it.Attachment 848711
Reply:Looks great Brooklyn! Should be real nice once it is powder coated!Are you just gonna have it black?
Reply:Originally Posted by Sheyda36Looks great Brooklyn! Should be real nice once it is powder coated!Are you just gonna have it black?
Reply:Originally Posted by el bobAny tricks for getting the rusted grinding flakes off an asphalt driveway once they're there?
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman9950/50 meuratic acid and water mix... Dump it on the whole driveway, let sit about 10 min, brush the real heavy spots and rinse! You'll have new concrete again!Just remember it is acid!! So take proper precautions , gloves, glasses, move anything you don't want it on, and the vapor is strong! So stay up wind or use a mask.I just did it to my driveway a few weeks ago and it probably held it's own against gravels driveway! Lol looked like a rust farm!
Reply:Missed the asphalt part! Lol I'd assume asphalt wouldn't fare as well as concrete.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by gxbxcRight all the stains will be in the street.
Reply:Originally Posted by kiwiThat probably would be true for you, but anyone with sense would make use of the grass in their yard. If no grass I would rather the street be stained than my drive.
Reply:Hey,I am originally from Brooklyn also. I lived summers in Mastic Beach LI. Do you know where that is?Nick
Reply:I'm from Long Island. Yes I do it's out east.
Reply:All done and assembled in it's final resting place. It is still missing the climbing rope and heavy bag they're on order. Took 4 of us to get it together the top frame was a real pain it needed some persuading with the not so level rubber floor under it. Total cost was about $1200 including powdercoat.Nothing compared to what some of you guys put together but it's easily my biggest welding/fabrication accomplishment to date so I'm proud of it.Attachment 853881Attachment 853891Attachment 853901Attachment 853911Attachment 853921Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 09-24-2014 at 03:26 PM.
Reply:Turned out great! Nice job man!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou may regret all that grinding dust on the concrete....
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestAll done and assembled in it's final resting place. It is still missing the climbing rope and heavy bag they're on order. Took 4 of us to get it together the top frame was a real pain it needed some persuading with the not so level rubber floor under it. Total cost was about $1200 including powdercoat.Nothing compared to what some of you guys put together but it's easily my biggest welding/fabrication accomplishment to date so I'm proud of it.
Reply:I like it - looks good. I'm puzzled at the price tag though - $1200 seems high, what am I missing?Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI like it - looks good. I'm puzzled at the price tag though - $1200 seems high, what am I missing?
Reply:You are going to get some plastic caps to close the open tube ends?
Reply:Yea I forgot to order them. Takes a day to get stuff here standard shipping from McMaster theyre warehouse is like 1 state away.
Reply:Originally Posted by GarOh come on now, what a matter with a little added color (after a good rain), some people pay good money for colored concrete.  Gar
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestPowdercoating a 10' tall tower with 9 pieces doesn't come cheap.  Hell nothing comes cheap here gas is almost $4 a gallon on a bad week.$600 in steel (NY Pricing) $500 in powdercoat (he actually cut as a deal since its for a local fire department) $50-100 odds and ends. Bolts, flap discs, mig wire etc.I still have to order the square plugs for the 2" tubing but those are like $12 for 50 from McMaster.The climbing rope, punching bag and olympic rings add up to another $250 but I didn't include that in the $1200.
Reply:Originally Posted by kiwiGravel,If you use a leaf blower and a broom after cutting you will not have any rust stains.Nick
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman9950/50 meuratic acid and water mix... Dump it on the whole driveway, let sit about 10 min, brush the real heavy spots and rinse! You'll have new concrete again!Just remember it is acid!! So take proper precautions , gloves, glasses, move anything you don't want it on, and the vapor is strong! So stay up wind or use a mask.I just did it to my driveway a few weeks ago and it probably held it's own against gravels driveway! Lol looked like a rust farm!