Stripping powdercoat???

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This might be in the wrong place (mods feel free to move if so) but I need some input.I've got a custom bumper skin that needs some work done. Adding some anchor points, etc. It's been powdercoat end but the finish has failed and there is rust under a lot of it. I need to get the remaining finish off before putting something new on it. This stuff (where it's stuck) is pretty tough. Short of using a grinding wheel, is there any way to strip it off??Thanks!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Sandblasting is the most economical way.......
Reply:Go get a can of permatex gasket remover in the spray can. Spray it on heavy and let it soak in. It takes a little work but it strips powder coat.  It was the only thing that worked on a fisher plow blade. And I tried blasting with black Beauty out of a big blast rig and it was wasting material..lolThe older cans were more potent if you can find them. After trying the first can. Go back and buy what you need to finish.
Reply:Permatex 80646 is what you need.
Reply:I can't find anybody selling the 80646. Only the 'new' 80645. You guys have any sources?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Sandblasting will be tough. I don't have a place big enough to get a bumper in.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:there was a thread on this about 9 mo ago.    i don't remeber the title, but i worked for a fence co. that got a bunch of panels rejected because of rust pitting under he powder coating.    we had to have a guy sand the powder coating off.    using a rubber backed backing on a typical mini grinder, w/ abrasive like sand paper like front.    sorry, i don't know the real name of this
Reply:Ya, I've been going at it with a 24grit disk on a backup pad but it is super slow going. Hoping there is a faster way.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Looks like Loctite 79040 has Methylene Chloride in it. Any experience wit it? Seems to be similar to the NLA Permatex product.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:yes, some kind of back up pad, but more coarse.    much more coarse.    i use #60 flap wheels, and it was much more coarse than that yet
Reply:sorry , yea,  24 is morw coarse than a 60.     maybe it just takes some time.    i mean the stuff is supposed to be durable, and not come off right?
Reply:Ya. Supposed to. Unless it fails.....arrrgggg. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:keep at it, it might be callled elbow grease.   answer might be, there is no good way.   you'll get it off eventually
Reply:Originally Posted by monte_santa_cruzLooks like Loctite 79040 has Methylene Chloride in it. Any experience wit it? Seems to be similar to the NLA Permatex product.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Paint stripper, scraping and wire wheel. Sandblast will take some off, but some is really thick and rubbery as soon as you break the surface sheen off it.A commercial sand blast outfit would likely be able to knock it out in short order, but those places are using like 100+ CFM compressors with high flow pressurized guns. The local tractor dealer has a booth big enough to drive a full semi with a 53' trailer into. Their blasting setup is no joke. It can literally cut sheetmetal if they wanna get aggressive with it.There's no easy quick way besides opening your wallet to pay someone else to do it unfortunately.IMHO of courseExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Have you tried burning it and then wire wheeling the rest of?
Reply:Pro blasting company near me is getting ovens just for the poweder coated removal process. They bake it fist, over 500 degrees and then blast it.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Paint stripper, scraping and wire wheel. Sandblast will take some off, but some is really thick and rubbery as soon as you break the surface sheen off it.A commercial sand blast outfit would likely be able to knock it out in short order, but those places are using like 100+ CFM compressors with high flow pressurized guns. The local tractor dealer has a booth big enough to drive a full semi with a 53' trailer into. Their blasting setup is no joke. It can literally cut sheetmetal if they wanna get aggressive with it.There's no easy quick way besides opening your wallet to pay someone else to do it unfortunately.IMHO of course
Reply:I did a snowplow blade re-skinning this past fall. Black Beauty and 125CFM could do it, buy my blaster pot crapped out. Wound up O/A cooking, scraping and 40 grit grinding the remaining powder coat.Rustolium to refinish. 2 year maintenance cycle is the trade-off for making it possible to repaint.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:forget powder coat for bumpers or that stuff...spray on rhino liner on and its there for good and is super tuff stuff and has a nice no slip finish that covers minor blemishes....http://liners.rhinolinings.com/Last edited by roadkillbobb; 12-28-2015 at 08:58 AM.Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:I've come to the conclusion powder coat should only be applied to items that need to look pretty but not functional!!                                            MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by Mcm308I have a tow behind IR 100 CFM that runs our big hopper blaster at work. Black Beauty is a pretty nasty abrasive and would not touch the powder coat on an old Fisher plow where it was still good. I wasted 160lbs. Of material before I gave up... mofoing the way...lol
Reply:Agreed. This bumper will NOT get powder coat when I'm done. It'll get something I can work with in the future. Everything I own that has come powder coated had eventually failed. Once any moisture gets under the finish it just runs. Can't see the damage until it had gotten real bad.
Reply:Powder coat isn't a be all end all solution to rust prevention. It is an advanced coating, superior to paint, but not impervious to rust and the elements unfortunately. A great deal of the longevity of the finish depends on surface preparation, application and quality of materials used. There are lesser quality powders out there and the real high quality, outdoor rated stuff isn't cheap. They generally shoot a primer which gets baked on first before coating anything going out doors. I can tell you right now that all powder coating and the ppl who do it are not equal. If you got a place doing it super cheap on volume for another company manufacturing whatever, they my opt for a finish that lasts the length of the warranty, and not much more to save money.But even the best coatings, applied in ideal conditions still indeed rust and break down over time. Then, getting it off is always a challenge, in varying degrees of difficulty depending on the product.Hot dip galvanize is about the best route to go if that's what you want but there arent a lot of places that do it, and the one down in Detroit that does here has a $300 minimum. They can dip entire semi trailer frames tho.Powder coat definitely has advantages over paint, but it still breaks down, especially if water gets behind it. There's not much of anything that prevents rust when that happens.IMHO of courseLast edited by 7A749; 12-28-2015 at 09:22 AM.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by Sharon NeedlesHave you tried burning it and then wire wheeling the rest of?Just be careful with the heat if it's thinner material. I use a propane torch to take decals off, but you gotta know when to stop..Ask me how I know that Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:I use a sanding disk with a rubber backing pad. The key is to use a new disk (24 grit) and keep moving. You want to sand it off without it getting hot enough to melt. Change disks often if they load up but keep em because they are still good for steel.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:The coarse Scotch-brite discs, I think they call them Sand-n-Strip, are probably the best bet, but still a lot of work if you have to do a large area.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Soak it in lacquer thinner. That's how we used to remove in before polishing out motorcycle wheels.Sent from my SM-N910R4 using Tapatalk
Reply:Might try Klean-Strip Premium paint remover (KS-3).  According to the MSDS it has a lot of Methylene Chloride in it.  Do NOT use except in a well ventilated area.http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/premium-stripperhttp://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Str...GKS3/100144685"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:According to my powder-coat guy the original finish can be cooked off gently in a "burn-off oven". Just a little hotter than the 415 deg powder setting oven. So a tougher item could easily be cooked with any torch and wire wheeled. Pain in the nuts without burning, the coating will smear around forever.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Manager to find a stripper (even here in California) that had Methylene Chloride in it. Works like a champ. That and a wire wheel.Thanks all!!!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:paint stripper will soften and remove powder coating. It might take several hours.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Took about 10 min. Makes me wonder if it was legit powdercoating!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:Be careful of strippers and read the MSDS.  One effective stripper, Benco B17, contains hydrofluoric acid (HF) and dichloromethane (methylene chloride) among other things.  Both are dangerous."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Ya. That's why they work so well!!  ;-)