Another slider job. need some help.

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I'll let the pics do most of the explaining.Please ask more questions.We need this tedder back together to get our hay put up before it rains.
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Reply:Build slightly longer new shaft, bore flange, press new shaft in bored flange, weld in place (under cut new shaft for better joint at flange), machine shaft/flange joint back to dimension, machine top of shaft to clear thru driveshaft???Just my guess.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:How should a guy prep the metal for welding it back together?It needs to be the same length and width.Let me know what ya'll think.Please don't tell me to scrap it and buy a new part.Its a foreign built machine and would take a while to get a part here.Thanks in advance.~John
Reply:Can you move the remaining ones around and use it in a narrower configuration?You know, just to finish up.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Looking at what I see, I'd probably drill out the flange center and plug weld the shaft to the flange. Then I'd machine a groove where the break is, preferably all the way down to the plug weld, and then weld that back up. Remachine to shaft OD when finished.Zap can probably point you in the right direction if anyone can. He'd probably just bore the center out and turn a whole new shaft and heat shrink it in place, then weld it up..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Put in lathe, grind to point, center on flange and build up weld to slightly oversize, then turn down to correct diameter?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWLooking at what I see, I'd probably drill out the flange center and plug weld the shaft to the flange. Then I'd machine a groove where the break is, preferably all the way down to the plug weld, and then weld that back up. Remachine to shaft OD when finished.Zap can probably point you in the right direction if anyone can. He'd probably just bore the center out and turn a whole new shaft and heat shrink it in place, then weld it up.
Reply:I have no machining tools. just a grinder and drill press/bits...I was thinking on taking a torch and blowing a hole thru, cutting out a hole, die grind it, and pluq weld it from the back.... down and dirty.
Reply:Is the shaft a common diameter. I would try and get a good shrink fit in the hub by freezing the shaft and heating the hub. 10 thousands over on the shaft would be about right. Use 80 or 10018 rod if you have it.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopI have no machining tools. just a grinder and drill press/bits...I was thinking on taking a torch and blowing a hole thru, cutting out a hole, die grind it, and pluq weld it from the back.... down and dirty.
Reply:I've got some 1/8 9018.And some 1/8 LH D90.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Drill it and enlarge it with a die grinder. Unless you got some real good skill with a torch, that sounds like it'll just make a mess. Personally would TIG weld it if you can. Provide the most precise application of filler and control of heat. As little as I know about that stuff, I would think it would be the way to go John.IMHO of course
Reply:Biggest issue I see with "down and dirty" is making sure the shaft stays lined up straight. That's why I was suggesting boring it 1st, then using the outside part of the shaft break to help index the shaft. Not a guarantee, especially if the shaft bent when it twisted off.It's probably "doable" down and dirty, but I'd be careful you don't go too far, too fast, then find out something warped or isn't straight and you are in a worse place. Sometimes It's best to recognize your limitations, and just take it to some one with the right toys to do the job, then make a giant mess and make things 10 times worse.Down and dirty, I'd probably tack everything in place, then assemble and make sure it fits. Then disassemble and weld some. Stop, reassemble and double check everything is staying straight. If not, you'll have to deal with the issue right then. Either grind it out, or whatever. Disassemble and weld some more and repeat until finished....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWBiggest issue I see with "down and dirty" is making sure the shaft stays lined up straight. That's why I was suggesting boring it 1st, then using the outside part of the shaft break to help index the shaft. Not a guarantee, especially if the shaft bent when it twisted off.It's probably "doable" down and dirty, but I'd be careful you don't go too far, too fast, then find out something warped or isn't straight and you are in a worse place. Sometimes It's best to recognize your limitations, and just take it to some one with the right toys to do the job, then make a giant mess and make things 10 times worse.Down and dirty, I'd probably tack everything in place, then assemble and make sure it fits. Then disassemble and weld some. Stop, reassemble and double check everything is staying straight. If not, you'll have to deal with the issue right then. Either grind it out, or whatever. Disassemble and weld some more and repeat until finished...
Reply:If I were to try and fix that, with no true macining tools, like a lathe, I would first use the break to align the flange back n to the shaft. Tack that in place. Then with the drill press drill a hole through the flange bit down into the shaft, anywhere from 1-2 inches. Then tap that hole, and use a bolt/stud and nut to fasten the shaft to the flange. Then use a grinder, and grind a bevel into the shaft, almost all the way down to the bolt. Then use your choice of welding techniques to weld it back up to par. Take it to a machinist if that particular spot needs turned, or figure out a way to smooth it back out after you are done.Then if necessary hack the stud and nut off the flange, since it is no longer necessary. That would be how I would attempt to repair it if I only had access to "basic" fabrication tools.
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Reply:First hole is 9/16"
Reply:To be continued.~John
Reply:AKweldshopI'm a sucker for anything agricultural.Unfortunately - the most telling photo - the last of #8 was out of focus;and, there is not a photo of the underside - the shaft through the yoke?The snap of the shaft - and how it is attached - tells most of the tale.Is this assembly: Drop forged, machined, and hardened, or is it a cast steel yoke welded to a machined cold-rolled shaft, or a mix of a case-hardened shaft after welding? . . .Regardless - You cannot put these two piece together again:note - Humpty Dumpty- - - - - - - In the 'middle of harvest' - fix first - and repair 'properly' later.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...1-8pm-rush-jobI would salvage the yoke - produced a 'substitute' shaft - then pocketweld from the back side . . .just to get through the season.Opus
Reply:sorry ak. don't see too many of those here in nyc. the only question i can offer is what the heck is it and what does it do?i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny flaFrom what I can tell its a hay bine type unit. Something you tow in a field and it throws the hay/straw/alfalfa etc into nice neat rows, for baleing. Correct me if Im wrong.
Reply:You are correct but that's only half of it.Depending on the adjustable angle of approach, it will either rake the hay/straw into a windrow for bailing as you described OR throw it outward to spread it out for drying (tedding).MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROAKweldshopI'm a sucker for anything agricultural.Unfortunately - the most telling photo - the last of #8 was out of focus;and, there is not a photo of the underside - the shaft through the yoke?The snap of the shaft - and how it is attached - tells most of the tale.Is this assembly: Drop forged, machined, and hardened, or is it a cast steel yoke welded to a machined cold-rolled shaft, or a mix of a case-hardened shaft after welding? . . .Regardless - You cannot put these two piece together again:note - Humpty Dumpty- - - - - - - In the 'middle of harvest' - fix first - and repair 'properly' later.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...1-8pm-rush-jobI would salvage the yoke - produced a 'substitute' shaft - then pocketweld from the back side . . .just to get through the season.Opus
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Reply:My Hats off to you guys that can tig....I sure cant.
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Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopMy Hats off to you guys that can tig....I sure cant.
Reply:Clamped it down, and headed off to bed.I finished it about 1:00 in the morning.Let me know what ya'll think.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DWhy TIG ,you said you had 9018 electrode.
Reply:Any more feedback??I'd like your opinions.I'm tough too
Reply:John,Looks good my friend. You are not that bad of a tig weldor. The only concern I would have is making sure it is true. I would have done the same or similar if it had been me. Good job.-Jonathan
Reply:Originally Posted by Superior WeldingJohn,Looks good my friend. You are not that bad of a tig weldor. The only concern I would have is making sure it is true. I would have done the same or similar if it had been me. Good job.-Jonathan
Reply:Once plug welded, I think I would have V'd out down to the plug weld where the shaft met the land as DSW suggested in post #11 to get more/all of the pieces joined by the weld.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Once plug welded, I think I would have V'd out down to the plug weld where the shaft met the land as DSW suggested in post #11 to get more/all of the pieces joined by the weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianCAnd yet more useless information.If the flange  is cast steel, and the shaft also,welding should not be problem. My concern is what caused the break in the first place.
Reply:I don't like all the smutz I see in post 38 on the back in the 2nd pict. If it was all tigged, you fouled things badly on several occasions and really should have cleaned all the smoke etc off before continuing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWBrian looking at the original set of picts, my guess is he lost his nuts.... ...and the bolts came loose and his shaft got twisted and broke.
Reply:Got it turned down, and had a radius put of the spacer.
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