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I've had this thing for over a year, and only used it once. And I didn't much like it.Today, with storms coming in, and no real work getting done, I figured it was maybe time to figure out how to use the thing."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Crap, hit the button too soon"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:i dont see anything....lolOf all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Anyhow, I dragged the plasma out to try and figure the stupid thing out.Some 3/16 plate. 30amps/80psi/30amp tipFirst cut. OOMPH!!!!! About the fifth cut on 3/16 a little better Seems like this thing is about the same as a cutting torch. Some height above the metal, then plug and chug. Got fed up with the 30amp tip, slow and not too good. I put the 60amp tip in, and things started happening 1/4 plate. 45amps/80psi/60amp tip.Very little dross (what a stupid word!! It's SLAG )Bigger tip works better, even when the machine is turned down. Pretty much like setting the heat for welding. Least that's the way I see it I guess.Some tip pics in next post..................."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Ok, so the stupid thing cuts metal. AFTER HOOKING UP THE MACHINE, AIRLINES, COMPRESSOR, ETC. Lotta doggone hardware, and a lotta moola The settings And the tip after playing around with it for around 1/2 hour with constant repeat cuts. This is the larger tip.I gotta say.............. the consumable life is a little limited. I'm using filtered air (MotorGard filter), multiple water traps in the air system, and maintaining a decent standoff. I did notice if you get too close the metal splashes up on the tip, least it looks like metal splash. I'm running about the same height as a regular O/A cutting torch when cutting, maybe 3/16" or so.I suppose once I set up a decent straight cut system it'll be nice to have, but all in all................... In my opinion it's just a nice toy for most of my applications, but still a toy."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:It's a "tool".Perfect for every use or indispensilble? No. But not many tools fit that category.Cut aluminum with plasma? Sure.Cut stainless with plasma? Sure.Cut steel with plasma? Sure. The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:If it conduct electricity, you can cut it with plasma. If you have a table or a pantograph you can knock out the tedius stuff quick fast and in a big ole hurry. I always try to nest as much as I can get on a sheet or plate, then hit the start button and stand by in case I get a torch strike or damage my tip. My PM1000 G3 is a monster on my torchmate 4X4 small shop machine. It's about 6 years old and has paid for itself and the machine several times over already. Plasma is like oxy/fuel, jus gotta find the niche and it will fill it nicely with less fuss and way less clean-up too. Have fun and hope you enjoy your tool.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys? Trade?
Reply:I hear you are going to catch some bad weather Sat. be safe!!!!!Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:I too am fairly new to plasma, I have a Cutmaster 102, and I bought the bullet on purchase and put on the air dryer ( filter ), I got a rocky start for the first few days then Forhire gave me some pointers ( thanks again). Look up the post.I am using a drag tip as he suggested, and I took to it like a duck to water. My tip does not look like yours. I am on my original tip BTW and not going through them, and I have made 100 ish cuts ( ? not really counting ), I have only made a couple of cuts over 1/4 and most of mine have been in 1/8-3/16 plate. I set mine on 40 amps ( doesn't go lower ) and only when I have cut some 1/2 and 5/8 have I gone to the higher settings ( mine goes up to 80 amps ) Keep playing with it, the plasma can be your friend, for above 5/8 - 3/4 inch I prefer the torch but for thinner sheet stock the plasma is great, and really faster.
Reply:That unit seems to eat the tips up pretty fast.Just for comparison, I did every cut on this grain bin with 1 set of tips on my pm30 (all of the skins) The skin is 14g H.R.By the end the tip was needing a change. (It was still cutting but not really nice).I have a hokey lowes airfilter, drag on every cut, & keep it on almost full blast.It was just over 4hrs of laying out & cutting.Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromI am using a drag tip as he suggested, and I took to it like a duck to water. My tip does not look like yours. I am on my original tip BTW and not going through them, and I have made 100 ish cuts ( ? not really counting ), I have only made a couple of cuts over 1/4 and most of mine have been in 1/8-3/16 plate. I set mine on 40 amps ( doesn't go lower ) and only when I have cut some 1/2 and 5/8 have I gone to the higher settings ( mine goes up to 80 amps ) .
Reply:farmersamm , your useing pipe tips. I think thats what the manufacture wants you to use, because you will burn them up all day$$$. I try to follow Mechanic416 posts , learned drag tips and other plasma stuff......The drag tips look like 'Hollow Point Bullets' compared to regular fmj round nose or spire point tips anyhow thats how i remember. ^ someone above got 400 cuts from one hollow point . i remember mechanic416 saying .6 for sheet metal , .8 for medium amps , 1.0 high Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:With plasma cutting with an exposed nozzle....you can drag the torch at up to about 30 amps without a major loss of consumable life. Above 30 amps.....with an exposed nozzle you should hold a 1/16" to 1/8' standoff when cutting.....if the nozzle touches the plate the life immediately becomes shorter. All of the nozzles (tips) shown in the picture on woi2ld's post are exposed nozzles....regardless of whether or not the manufacturer calls them "drag tips".For nozzle life that is 6 to 10 times that of an exposed nozzle.....use plasma systems that have shielded consumables. (T-D has them for most of their torches.....Hypertherm has them for all of their torches above 30 amps....Hypertherm patented the shield technology in 1988 or so).The shield is another copper part that mounts in front of the nozzle (tip) and electrically isolates it so that arcing between the nozzle and the plate does not occur. Hypertherm torches can drag cut at up to 200 amps......and nozzles typically work like new after thousands of feet of cut.Here is a drawing of a typical set of shielded consumables as used in a Hypertherm Powermax65 or 85 torch. Drag the torch right on the plate....no sticking, no arcing.....and long consumable life.On a non shielded (exposed nozzle) torch the nozzle drags on the plate. The shield....on the torch below is electrically isolated from the nozzle....so it can drag on the plate....eliminating the arcing to the nozzle....considerably extending nozzle life.Jim Colt Attached ImagesLast edited by jimcolt; 04-14-2012 at 11:06 AM.
Reply:Here is a video of me cutting 5/8" plate with an 80 amp shielded plasma torch....the cut is clean and fast....the torch is dragging directly on the plate....and there is virtually no effect on the nozzle from doing this. This is a Hypertherm Powermax1250.... Jim ColtOh....and Dross is the resolidified metal that clings to the bottom of the plate being cut, Slag is the stuff that blows off the bottom and sticks to everything else. In this video the slag is on my driveway.....and there is almost no dross.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ2Niq630KY[/ame]Last edited by jimcolt; 04-14-2012 at 11:09 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredschromI too am fairly new to plasma, I have a Cutmaster 102, and I bought the bullet on purchase and put on the air dryer ( filter ), I got a rocky start for the first few days then Forhire gave me some pointers ( thanks again). Look up the post.
Reply:The inside of the torch looks fairly clean and slag free. I'm guessing Sam's already using the shield that matches the torch shown. He just took the shield off so he could take a picture of the tip. You can't really see the tip with the shield installed.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Here's a link to the manual:http://thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/Doc...29_Mar2012.pdfPrint pages 9 to 15 and hang them in the shop some place. Page 9 is the consumables chart and the remainder are cutting charts. Here's a screen shot of the charts for unshield vs shielded. Welcome to the new century. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by AndyAThe inside of the torch looks fairly clean and slag free. I'm guessing Sam's already using the shield that matches the torch shown. He just took the shield off so he could take a picture of the tip. You can't really see the tip with the shield installed.
Reply:farmersam I was in the same boat I had bought a hypotherm 600 I think its called.a 5/8 machine. After running it i thought I was the biggest sucker out there, hated that machine .125 and less it was great, anything thicker it was a tip eating piece of crap. I figured it up and it was cheaper to run oxy acetylene. I switched from drag tips to normal tips that helped a bunch, ( when I was 17 I was a cutter at a scrap yard for 8 months so, propane or acetylene torch is the bomb for me, its auto pilot, the muscle memory is implanted and let the boss catch you dragging a torch tip and plan on finding another job). after using it for a while I learned its quarks and now I will haul 3/4 material and smaller into the shop rather than cutting it in the yard with the torch. It gets cheaper as the weird cutting tips make sense. U have to admit that the less than a pound cutting head is awesome when following a pattern and being able to pick up the drop without heavy gloves is purdy niceI also learned bunch of stuff on this thread right here, about air starts I did that every time I hooked up the groundLast edited by idacal; 04-16-2012 at 12:45 AM.Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:ALRIGHT I'M CONVINCED Resolved the tip issues. Slipped on the guide. And decided to see if this thing will do good with a straightedge. I set the standoff at around 1/8", and had at it. It does a nice job. This is some 3/16 drop I got laying around.So I figured I'd see if the small HAZ was as small as everyone says it is.After slicing off a smidge I'm convinced. Be awful hard to repeat this with an O/A setup. You'd more than likely melt the cutoff.I find that I prefer standoff cutting for now. I still feel comfortable either hand holding the torch, or using the guide for a straight cut. Probably a holdout from my O/A muscle memory."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I hate to be the victim of the evil 21st century marketing crapheads, but I guess it was inevitable "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2ldfarmersamm , your useing pipe tips. I think thats what the manufacture wants you to use, because you will burn them up all day$$$. I try to follow Mechanic416 posts , learned drag tips and other plasma stuff......The drag tips look like 'Hollow Point Bullets' compared to regular fmj round nose or spire point tips anyhow thats how i remember. ^ someone above got 400 cuts from one hollow point . i remember mechanic416 saying .6 for sheet metal , .8 for medium amps , 1.0 high
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermike Do you still want those buffin wheels or what? |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:19:16