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I've got a problem with my Victor-style cutting head. It's leaking oxygen through either the pre-heat valve or the lever valve. This is a Uniweld-made head that I screw onto a Victor 300FC-series handle. By the way, there's no leakage of acetylene, and there's no leakage of oxygen into the acetylene passages of the handle or cutting head.I had the cutting head rebuilt by an industry/professional repair service a few years back. However, from my location (400 miles away) reliance on them is both time-consuming and costly (shipping, parts, labor). I guess I'd like to learn to service the head myself.I generally run the oxygen working pressure at 25 psi, which would be a lot for either valve to deal with if it has a seating problem. While the pre-heat valve is an obvious possibility, it seems possible to me that for some reason the cutting-lever's valve may not be seating completely. I'm not averse to opening up the cutting head's two valves (preheat and lever valve).I'm wondering in which order to check them out. I welcome advice on that, and any other tips.
Reply:I'm hesitant to suggest anyone without good solid training in Oxygen service mess with anything on the O2 side of a system. O2 can be very intolerant of contamination and it is extremely important that everything use with O2 be O2 compatible. Many "normal" substances are not. It's not as critical with LP O2 like at the torch head, but is extremely important with HP O2 or it can be deadly. Keep in mind EVERYTHING burns under the right conditions in the presence of 100% O2. In some cases you don't even need a exterior source of ignition.If you are serious about this, I'd contact the guys at Regulator and torch repair. They can probably help walk you thru it if it's safe to do so and get you all the O2 safe lubes and parts you may need.http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:If you close both valves where the hoses attach, is it still leaking? If not then the mixing valve on the cutting head leaks or you have a bad inner or small o-ring where the cutting head attaches to the mixing chamber. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:First off I'm not familiar with repair of O/A torches in specific but I'm familiar with O2 cleaning and service of high pressure gas regulators, valves etc and also low pressure - which is kind of the same thing.DSW is right about everything he says. Also if you want to do the job right you should probably rebuild the whole thing. Take it apart and clean it. Replace everthing that wears, such as orings, seals etc. Cleaning usually involves an ultrasonic cleaner and a couple of different steps. We usually clean in three steps - with a degreaser, a weak acid bath and a detergent in hot water. Water rinsing and visual inspection. The purpose is to remove all organic and inorganic contaminents of any kind. Inspect everything so you don't have any cracks or any mechanical damage on any parts. When you're done you put it all back together with new o-rings, seals etc. You use oxygen compatible grease on o-rings and such, not silicone. Adjust the tension on the valves and anything else that is adjustable. Finally check that there are no leaks. Best is to check with an inert gas for instance argon or helium, and not oxygen or acetylene. You could use air as well but the problem is shop air is full of contaminents so never use that.This is a general overview what is involved. There may be other things to consider since you have the acetylene side as well.This is a little more on cleaning for oxygen service.https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/...g-4.1.1985.pdfIf you have other people working for you, or using your equipment, I would consider any liability issues as well. Basically I wouldn't do it unless I had something on paper showing that I'm qualified to do it.PS. Here is an example of what is done from the website linked to above:http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/repairservices.phpLast edited by Pete.S.; 09-13-2014 at 07:28 PM.Reason: Added link
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusIf you close both valves where the hoses attach, is it still leaking? If not then the mixing valve on the cutting head leaks or you have a bad inner or small o-ring where the cutting head attaches to the mixing chamber. Mike
Reply:At my age I guess I'm being a little dense. Where exactly is the oxygen leaking? Have you tried immersing the entire torch assy in a tub of water? MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusAt my age I guess I'm being a little dense. Where exactly is the oxygen leaking? Have you tried immersing the entire torch assy in a tub of water?
Reply:Try changing both O-rings where the cutting head attaches to the mixing chamber. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I had the same problem with my Purox cutting head. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plunger valve from underneath the lever. I found it to be fouled with carbon preventing it from closing. It was quite odd since I have probably used the cutting head maybe 3 times since I purchased it used from another guy. Only thing I could figure is he must have "popped" it too many times. I cleaned everything with a clean dry paper towel, and put it all back together. Worked fine for me.I had the same problem, oxygen wouldn't stop flowing at the tip. The cutting jet was stuck in the "on" position.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961I had the same problem with my Purox cutting head. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plunger valve from underneath the lever. I found it to be fouled with carbon preventing it from closing. It was quite odd since I have probably used the cutting head maybe 3 times since I purchased it used from another guy. Only thing I could figure is he must have "popped" it too many times. I cleaned everything with a clean dry paper towel, and put it all back together. Worked fine for me.I had the same problem, oxygen wouldn't stop flowing at the tip. The cutting jet was stuck in the "on" position.
Reply:No, no problem disassembling. Just make note of what you take out in which order, and watch that the fiddly parts don't end up under the bench somewhere. Everything has to go back together clean, dry and oil free.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Not sure I followed every thing but it seems you need to tighten the collar under the preheat valve handle about an 1/8 turn at a time until it stops.
Reply:Had the same problem with a PowerFist torch. I removed the 2nd valve too and found out there was no sealing ring at the seat. It was just built with a cheap brass cup that leaked from day one. My solution was to toss it and get a real Victor torch.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:18:38