My Lincoln SUCKS!

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I figured that was a good headline to get you to read it. Hey, for the first time ever, I just set up my Power Mig 350MP for DC Tig, which is a factory intended function.No high freq, so they use "Lift Start" Maybe it's me, and I suck, not the Lincoln, but lift start is lame. I had my tungsten contaminated, stuck to my work and broken off a hundred times.I thought maybe I was doing something wrong, but I pressed firmly the tungsten to the work and pressed down on the pedal and actually watched the tungsten arc on the work and then I was stuck. So can someone tell me what the heck I am doing wrong? Because if this is what they intended, it sucks. I am guessing it's just me.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Never had the opportunity to use lift arc on any machine so take my ideas for what it's worth  . I thought the procedure was to set the amps at what you want, touch the tungsten to the material and pull an arc when you move the tungsten away from the material. Isn't the amperage lowered so you just have minimum to get an arc started without melting the tungsten to the plate until you can actually sustain an arc.....Mike
Reply:Joker,I might be crazy, but are you sure you can use the foot pedal and lift arc together?  Unless we're mis-communicating, lift arc for for use when you don't have a pedal or finger tip control.  For lift arc:  Try disconnecting the foot pedal from the system, setting your amps, turn on your gas if you don't have a solenoid, touch the tungsten gently to the base metal and then lift slightly.  You should get a nice arc to start....Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Well, I was reading the manual and setting it up as per.What in the heck though? Why would anyone want to tig without an amptroller? Foot or hand? That would be crazy. Besides, why would they put the amptrol port on the machine if you aren't supposed to use it?I guess I am really confused. And the manual leaves out a LOT of information on setup.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:If you don't get a definitive answer, shoot LE an email.  When I have, they always get back the same day, or latest, next day (24 hours).  They are quick and precise, with the answer to YOUR specific question, and not a cookbook reply.  Good luck on your info search. You will get it.
Reply:TIG done in the field is often done without a pedal or finger tip control.  It's not crazy when you're at the top of an extension ladder, laying in a pipe rack with barely enough room to breathe.  In that situation lift arc gives you a clean, uncontaminated start.Hopefully someone else with the same power supply will chime in.  But my advice is to remove the pedal and try the lift arc again. Originally Posted by Joker11Well, I was reading the manual and setting it up as per.What in the heck though? Why would anyone want to tig without an amptroller? Foot or hand? That would be crazy. Besides, why would they put the amptrol port on the machine if you aren't supposed to use it?I guess I am really confused. And the manual leaves out a LOT of information on setup.
Reply:Ok, I tried it sans footpedal. It works the same, except now I have NO control over the arc. it's just full throttle. I can't pull out of the puddle gently. I just pull back and leave a nice crater or I pull back too slow and the arc spreads faster than my ex-wifes behind. The tungsten still stuck and welded to the work. I guess I will call my rep tomorrow. I will keep checking here tonight in case someone adds to the thread. Thanks!Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Joker,When I lift start, I use light pressure.  I wouldn't consider it firm, and start at a slight angle.  It is a quick up and down motion that I use, not a tap, but a real light touch.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:you should be able to get it to workdo you touch down,gas starts pull and weldor can you scratch start it with a manual valve
Reply:Originally Posted by Joker11the arc spreads faster than my ex-wifes behind.
Reply:Keep in mind the with the foot pedal attached, your starting amperage is lower.  You need to depress the pedal to get amps high enough to scratch start.  Max it out and then back off.By the way, I tig quite a bit without a foot pedal, indoor installation.
Reply:Originally Posted by Joker11I figured that was a good headline to get you to read it. Hey, for the first time ever, I just set up my Power Mig 350MP for DC Tig, which is a factory intended function.No high freq, so they use "Lift Start" Maybe it's me, and I suck, not the Lincoln, but lift start is lame. I had my tungsten contaminated, stuck to my work and broken off a hundred times.I thought maybe I was doing something wrong, but I pressed firmly the tungsten to the work and pressed down on the pedal and actually watched the tungsten arc on the work and then I was stuck. So can someone tell me what the heck I am doing wrong? Because if this is what they intended, it sucks. I am guessing it's just me.
Reply:Joker,I use a PowerMig 350MP at work for SMAW, GMAW, GTAW, and CAC-A.Once I got the hang of it, I found the starts fairly easy to do, and without sticking, or Tungsten contamination.  I use it for Stainless Steel, and Mild Steel.   I'll walk you through what I do, and hopefully you will find something of use.I learned to Tig weld being able to control the puddle, so I always use the pedal.I do not hold the Tungsten to the workpiece for any length of time, but rather I very quickly "scratch" it on the workpiece as I jump on the peddle.  The motion I guess is very similiar to striking a 6010 electrode, but the gesture is quite a bit smaller.I scratch the Tungsten, Floor the pedal, and pull the Tungsten back to the desired arc length.  Once I have established the puddle, I pedal back out again so I can just maintain a fluid puddle, and off I go.I really don't find it to be much different than a Hi Frequency Start - With HF, I  have to get the Tungsten into close quarters with the workpiece so that the Arc will jump the distance, I still pedal all the way to establish the puddle, and then pedal back out as needed.  The only difference I see with the "Scratch Start"  on the PowerMig is that for a very VERY brief fraction of a second, the Tungsten comes into contact with the work piece.I don't think that anything will replace a true Hi Frquency start, but once you get the hangof it on the PowerMig, you won't notice much difference either.Have a Good Day.Later,Jason
Reply:Black Wolf,Thanks for posting. By the way you describe using it, I am concluding that I just suck. I tried that method. I am hoping I just need some old school seat time till I get it.Here is another question, the book says to set the machine up for TIG, so on the LED, I read 3, then it says to set the START, but when I go to set it for ramp up and ramp down, it doesn't adjust. Do you use that as well? Or is that what would be used for when you have no amptroller? If you use it at all, let me know exactly the sequence you are using, because when I follow the directions I am missing something or the directions are out of whack.And I did notice today that I was able to start the arc more times than yesterday, not with much success, but I was able to. And my tungsten was filthy by the end of it. It was horrible. I love my HF Tig module, but I hate running the Ranger 9 just to Tig. I am looking at that precision tig 375 and getting envious now. HF, built in water cooler, auto wavebalance....hmmmm. But then again, I saw a guy doing oil rig pipelines with nothing more than an aircooled tig torch hooked up to a lincoln ac/dc 225 buzz box. And he was awesome. which loops me back to....I suck.Anyways, more seat time and clean tungsten and I will post up again. Thanks!Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:I keep it very simple:Plug in the foot pedal.Torch and dedicated Positive "Ground" always hooked up.Switch over to Mode 3 and set my Maximum Amperage.Begin welding as described.I use a Weldcraft PTA 26FV (Air Cooled,Flex head with Shielding gas valve) so I am hooked up directly to the regulator.  I open up the valve to start the gas flow, and away I go. I do not set any Pre or Post Flow times, as I control the gas flow on the torch, and I bypass the PowerMig.The only time I would use the second knob on the face of the machine after setting my amperage, is if I did not have an Amptroller of some sort, and I needed to make the system "Hot".If you have an Amptroller plugged in, that knob is not used.I do not set up any Ramp up, or Ramp down times, I do it all with the Max Amperage and the Foot Pedal.Hope it helps.Have a Good Day.Later,Jason
Reply:Yes, lift arc/scratch start stink for light gauge materials.  Your only option is to move quickly.  It's not intended to be used when sitting down at a welding table.  As was mentioned, it's intended purpose is for heavy walled components, dangling up in a pipe rack, having 150 foot of lead between your weld and your power supply, etc, etc.  We've got over 5000 GTAW welds on this job thus far, and not a single one of them was made with a pedal.  In fact, there isn't a pedal anywhere on this site.  You scratch start, weld it out, add a bit more filler at the end, terminate your arc on the SIDEWALL of the groove, and move the torch close for a few seconds to keep the shielding gas coverage.  It takes some getting used to, but you'll get an understanding of how many amps you truly need to weld something, and how to trust your hands and the puddle more than the pedal.  Unless it's under 1/8", I don't even bother dragging the pedal out anymore.
Reply:I was welding 3/16 plate to 1-1//2 round tube .120 wall thickness. I guess I am just used to a foot pedal. Anyways, since I had never done anything with this machine except aluminum I decided to goof with it. I actually bought it as a dedicated aluminum unit. But....no aluminum jobs right now. So hooked up the magnum gun and started messing around. I have never used pulsed mig before. That's pretty slick! I like it a lot better than standard mig. Ha! and I thought just the pulse on pulse with alum. was cool. So, for aluminum push/pull, the unit ROCKS.For pulsed mig, it really rocks. For standard mig, it's nice, tons of power for everything I would use it for. I honestly had never even hooked up the magnum gun or the tig torch until this week. Can you believe that? Had this unit for over a year now I think. sheesh. Anyone else have a chance to use this unit besides Black Wolf? what did you think?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain