Welding uphill

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Hey guys, messing around today with nothing to do so I'm working on burning vertical. This is the best I could get...Hobart Ironman 230 running at Tap 8 and wire at 70. Running 75/25 gas and 30 wire. Plate is 1/4". Can't figure out how to get the dips at the toe of the weld out. I'm running side to side as I move up.
Reply:Here is a good video about welding vertical up hill. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I'll watch that video and give it another go. Here is what I got playing around with settings. "s" under the setting means I drug it straight, no weaving or side to side. Last one on the left I went side to side on.
Reply:Should I run a bead as normal (horizontal) to get setting dialed in and then go vertical or are the settings going to need to be different?
Reply:I have no idea what setting S means. Looks to me like you have too much wire going into the puddle. Or your travel speed is too slow.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Whip from side to side, pause on each side for one second( or until the puddle washes over). The pictures shows your over laps are to far apart, keep the overlaps tighter.
Reply:Clean your base metal to allow the toes to wet in more .  I think you need to go with bigger wire.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Once you find your settings, there is nothing easier that vertical up hill than with Mig. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Swapped over to 1/8" bar (cheaper and I have a ton).I am thinking 5/40 is the setting to run at, just need to get the technique down now. See anything that says otherwise?
Reply:Toe seems to look better but I've got a pile in the center now...Whip across faster after the pause at the side?
Reply:Is needed more voltage.  Find the way to setup little more.
Reply:vertical up separates those that can weld from those that just squirt metal. The key is being able to see and read the puddle. Most guys can get by flat and horizontal doing "timing" patterns. That doesn't work vertical.With fillets like you are doing, a slight side to side motion usually works best with newer students just learning. What most people do is swing back and forth at a constant speed. that means they start at side A and swing across the center on a "1" and pause for "1" on the left, then swing back across the center for "1" and pause on the right side for "1" before repeating the cycle again. What that means is you end up with a count of 1 on the left, 2 ( one going left, one going back right) in the center, and 1 on the right side. That puts twice as much wire in the center and humps it up.When you can read the puddle, you swing quickly across the center and pause on the left for the puddle to catch up to the arc, then swing quickly back across the center and pause again on the right for the puddle to catch up to the arc. That leaves you with a nice flat bead side to side.Issue #2 I see is your motions are too large. As an example lets say right now you are doing 4 cycles left/right per inch. that's leaving you hollows at the toes between each cycle. If you did 8 cycles vs 4, the space between "teeth" at the toes would decrease by 1/2. If instead of 8 you did 16 cycles, you'd probably have no "teeth" at all. Now your motion "forward" on the joint stays the same for that 1" ie you cover the same distance whether you are doing 4 cycles or 16.I teach guys to read the puddle and understand cycles by doing exaggerated weaves vertical. I do about a 1" or 2" horizontal weld, and pause at the end so they can watch the puddle catch up to the arc, then start back across slightly higher and then pause again at the other side. This is so guys can clearly see me pause and watch the arc catch up. Once they say they can see this, I cut the length of the welds in half and do it again. If they say they can still see it, I'll keep increasing my speed side to side while decreasing the horizontal distance until my side to side motion is just a tiny wiggle, maybe 1/16" side to side... At this point most students can't really tell when the arc catches the puddle. Eventually they will be able to make that distinction as their skills improve..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Are you pushing or pulling uphill?  The biggest mistake people make when welding uphill is moving too slowly across the middle.  You can just about hold the toe, skip right across the middle, and hold the other toe, and get the profile and penetration needed.  When you hold at the sides as long as you do in the middle, you will end up with a very convex weld.
Reply:Hey guy's i too at times have an issue when doing vertical welds but i get a lot better once i get the settings dialed in. I might be wrong so correct me but i have a push angle when going up hill. Not real exaggerated with the angle but enough to push the puddle up as i go. Right or wrong? This info might help him with the sides/toes filling in when he pauses.Fireman BillHH 210 MVPMM 211 Spoolmate 100Lotas LTP5000D PlasmaOxy/Accet (Victor)Wards AC/DC buzz box30 ton old hyd pressA few brand name toolsA bunch of cheap toolsA wife to worry me and4 dogs to supervise me
Reply:Like some have said, you are spending too much time in the middle. You don't need to melt the puddle, just the base metal. The middle will work itself out.Also, like DSW said, you have to be able to read the puddle. Maybe spend some more time in the flat and horizontal positions before doing vertical.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fireman BillI might be wrong so correct me but i have a push angle when going up hill. Not real exaggerated with the angle but enough to push the puddle up as i go. Right or wrong? This info might help him with the sides/toes filling in when he pauses.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWvertical up separates those that can weld from those that just squirt metal. The key is being able to see and read the puddle. Most guys can get by flat and horizontal doing "timing" patterns. That doesn't work vertical.With fillets like you are doing, a slight side to side motion usually works best with newer students just learning. What most people do is swing back and forth at a constant speed. that means they start at side A and swing across the center on a "1" and pause for "1" on the left, then swing back across the center for "1" and pause on the right side for "1" before repeating the cycle again. What that means is you end up with a count of 1 on the left, 2 ( one going left, one going back right) in the center, and 1 on the right side. That puts twice as much wire in the center and humps it up.When you can read the puddle, you swing quickly across the center and pause on the left for the puddle to catch up to the arc, then swing quickly back across the center and pause again on the right for the puddle to catch up to the arc. That leaves you with a nice flat bead side to side.Issue #2 I see is your motions are too large. As an example lets say right now you are doing 4 cycles left/right per inch. that's leaving you hollows at the toes between each cycle. If you did 8 cycles vs 4, the space between "teeth" at the toes would decrease by 1/2. If instead of 8 you did 16 cycles, you'd probably have no "teeth" at all. Now your motion "forward" on the joint stays the same for that 1" ie you cover the same distance whether you are doing 4 cycles or 16.I teach guys to read the puddle and understand cycles by doing exaggerated weaves vertical. I do about a 1" or 2" horizontal weld, and pause at the end so they can watch the puddle catch up to the arc, then start back across slightly higher and then pause again at the other side. This is so guys can clearly see me pause and watch the arc catch up. Once they say they can see this, I cut the length of the welds in half and do it again. If they say they can still see it, I'll keep increasing my speed side to side while decreasing the horizontal distance until my side to side motion is just a tiny wiggle, maybe 1/16" side to side... At this point most students can't really tell when the arc catches the puddle. Eventually they will be able to make that distinction as their skills improve.
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeAre you pushing or pulling uphill?  The biggest mistake people make when welding uphill is moving too slowly across the middle.  You can just about hold the toe, skip right across the middle, and hold the other toe, and get the profile and penetration needed.  When you hold at the sides as long as you do in the middle, you will end up with a very convex weld.
Reply:I've done quite a bit of uphill welding using mig, Plus a job i had was to ensure that the weld was smooth as could be for painting, I did the uphill weld and finished off with a downwards cap, sounds a bit odd but the finish was super, I've got some pictures somewhere i'll hunt them out
Reply:Ok Heres the Uphil weldNow , not on the same piece but a different weld of the downhil cap which smooths off the weld and makes it easier for the filler and primer to coatand basically the end result looks like this when painted