Machining non free machining copper

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I have some pieces I need to make. Since they will carry a lot of current, I would like to use copper alloy 110. I have read that it is not a free machining copper. I also read that it can be machined, just not as easy as free machining copper. Does anyone have any tricks to machine non free machining materials? All I would be doing is a little milling and drill, nothing super precision by any means. Thanks.kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:Wax and dull cutters.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Well I have plenty of dull cutters here, mainly cause I'm still kind of a hack machinist. What kind of wax?kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:Gulfwax..Get it at any hardware store..I get mine at "Stop And Shop"..Go slow and easy..Don't try to take off too much at once..You'll figger it out.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:What's non-machining materials? Completely new to this, so hope you don't mind the noob questions.Bruce
Reply:Anything can be machined with the proper speeds and feeds. Not too familiar with non free machinable copper but I have machined lots of copper parts. Let me look up the feeds and speeds and I'll get back to you...
Reply:I had trouble drilling copper,bit would try to screw itself into thematerial,and bind/break.Stoning (dulling)the cutting edges of the bit helped.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:Pure copper is soft and 'gummy' meaning it deforms easily and sticks to the teeth of the cutter. On a lathe, high rake tools dig in easily, too easily and too far on deep cuts or if it just feels like being bad, rather than the chip breaking/being sheared off.
Reply:also grind a small radius on the edge of the flute, so it wont try to grabtackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Thanks for the tips guys. Just ordered some 110 copper for my project. I'll get it here in a few days, and try out your tips. Thanks. kidtigger24  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:you'll also want cobalt drills..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by bruceryou'll also want cobalt drills..
Reply:Originally Posted by kidtigger24What about end mills? What do they need to be?kidtigger24
Reply:Older text books suggested milk when turning/machining copper. The clean up would suck.
Reply:Originally Posted by dunemetalOlder text books suggested milk when turning/machining copper. The clean up would suck.
Reply:Originally Posted by kidtigger24As in the stuff I buy at 7-11, and comes from a cow? Or is it some type of coolant that is white in color so everyone calls it milk?kidtigger24
Reply:I heard it was condensed milk.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Can't you just make the part out of a more easily machined grade of copper? If it's running on the ragged edge of current carrying capacity then just... add a little more copper.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Old School Lube  -  I was willed a 1st Edition of Machinery's Handbook.  To non-machinists, this is the book that goes in the dedicated square top-center drawer of a machine's top-box.  This book hosts the specification of how everything that builds the rest is built.Copyright: 1914 by The Industrial Press, New York, 1st ed. 10,000, 1400 pages.[currently in its 29th. + edition].  Under  'Lubricants for Machining Operations'  pg. 877 - para. 4, "Milk is generally considered the best lubricant for machining copper.  A mixture of lard oil and turpentine is also used for copper".  Page 878 lists the Navy Department specifications for lard oil.kidtigger24  -  Drill fluid: contact your local 'Machine Tool Suppler' for todays equivalent.Grind the rake flat to a wide face, on axis, and perpendicular to the length of the bit. This prevents plunging the bit. The flat edge shears instead of cuts, sothe copper can't grab the bit. Peck during drilling: drill withdraw, drill withdraw . . . . .   this also has other applications.    Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverCan't you just make the part out of a more easily machined grade of copper? If it's running on the ragged edge of current carrying capacity then just... add a little more copper.
Reply:lol what's amatter, can't afford to make them out of silver?Coming after a lead post almost anything is going to be better. If you really must use copper you should use (free machining) C145 tellurium, commonly used for electrical parts that require good conductance and also must be machined.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverlol what's amatter, can't afford to make them out of silver?