Are water cooler lines replaceable?

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Hi guys,Hooking up my Everlast 200DX today, checking the cooler for pressure, etc. and found I had a cracked hose right at the end of the barbed brass connector.  I cut it off at the break (probably shouldn't have done that), but now I'm not sure I can put a replacement connector on since the power cable goes through this line as well.  Anyone know if I can get just the connector or if I have to replace the entire line, etc.?Who is John Galt?
Reply:I think you have to replace the entire line
Reply:I don't think you'd ever be able to make that connection. I screwed-up and forgot to turn the cooler back on and melted my CK hose but was surprised to find a 25ft. SuperFlex replacement was only $35!
Reply:Cut the compression fitting off as close to the rolled end as possible.  Figure out how to connect the power to the barb. Use hose clamps.If it works, you have saved a chunk of change.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Cheaper and less headache to just replace the power cable. They are as cheap as $45-50 on ebay for a 12'Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I don't have a lot of faith that that will work, but may give it a try.  Getting a new hose for $35 is reasonable.  Here's a pic of the business end...SR-20F, and the connection my finger is on is the one that is cut at the opposite end.  Dang!  A quick google found this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/WP-20-SR-20-...p2054897.l4275  It looks practially identical to what I have.  Are the small brass nuts (near the torch head) on a 20-series torch all pretty much standard sizes?Who is John Galt?
Reply:They're easy and free to fix.The hose barb (under the crimp ferrule) simply has a tail before the barb where the copper cable solders to.You 'stretch' the cable out of the hose, solder it to the barb then slide the hose over the barb and wirewrap it down (over the hose braid, that stuff keeps the hose from ballooning and popping).That's it....or just upgrade to silicone "superflex" hoses, they're way better and don't deteriorate like rubber.Last edited by MikeGyver; 10-18-2014 at 08:30 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by EZRhinoI don't have a lot of faith that that will work, but may give it a try.  Getting a new hose for $35 is reasonable.  Here's a pic of the business end...SR-20F, and the connection my finger is on is the one that is cut at the opposite end.  Dang!  A quick google found this:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/WP-20-SR-20-...p2054897.l4275  It looks practially identical to what I have.  Are the small brass nuts (near the torch head) on a 20-series torch all pretty much standard sizes?
Reply:Right, just disected the crimped end.  It is fixable.  How-ev-er, a closer inspection of the end that broke shows the rubber hose has multiple cracks back at least a few inches from where I stripped off the woven jacket.  Looks like the entire thing needs replacing.  May as well do it now.Who is John Galt?
Reply:Originally Posted by EZRhinoRight, just disected the crimped end.  It is fixable.  How-ev-er, a closer inspection of the end that broke shows the rubber hose has multiple cracks back at least a few inches from where I stripped off the woven jacket.  Looks like the entire thing needs replacing.  May as well do it now.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverThey're easy and free to fix.The hose barb (under the crimp ferrule) simply has a tail before the barb where the copper cable solders to.You 'stretch' the cable out of the hose, solder it to the barb then slide the hose over the barb and wirewrap it down (over the hose braid, that stuff keeps the hose from ballooning and popping).That's it..
Reply:It's not easy to do but not impossible. But care must be taken to not block the passage of the cooling water making it even harder than it looks.  There are places that sell the fittings but I don't remember which ones at the moment. If the hose is cracked I'd replace it. But if in a bind you can fix it with care. Here's the thread where I posted how I did it.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ht=repair+hoseHere's another thread where some ideas of repair can be found. I also think there's a link to one of the places selling the ends.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ht=repair+hoseMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by BaTuYou couldn't possibly do that on a SuperFlex cable, there simply is no "stretch" (I Really tried) and the crimp is 3/4" or more down from the barb...
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarSure you could.  You'd just have to cut a bit of the hose length off, without cutting the copper wire inside.  This would leave the copper wire protruding in order to crimp it to the new fitting,  then push the crimped portion of the fitting inside the superflex hose in order to crimp a ferrule over the hose onto the new fitting
Reply:Hmmm....I'm tempted to take mine apart just to try and put it back together to find out for myself   What I described is basically what MikeGyver said, just can't see why it wouldn't work, unless I'm imagining something that is far from what I would find inside a water-cooled superflex hose.  Last edited by Oscar; 10-19-2014 at 07:35 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:I think you're envisioning a copper cable that's kinda "floating around" inside a tube. This may be true with other cables but, in my cable I tried to repair, it was almost Bonded. I was amazed that this could carry 250A and that  there was any room for coolant at all
Reply:hmm....then I wonder how they are put together at the factory they're made at. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by BaTuYou couldn't possibly do that on a SuperFlex cable, there simply is no "stretch" (I Really tried) and the crimp is 3/4" or more down from the barb...
Reply:It's the hose that came with my CK torch, I'm quite sure it's a CK hose. I don't think you can assume that the hose in your pic looks like the burn spot thru-&-thru. I have cut and used my scrap CK hose in many places, it is all as tight as my picture.There is no "space" between the cable & silicone tube. If I cut a 3" piece of my scrap with an inch of wire protruding from it and grip this wire with pliers I have to pull it Very hard to get it out. A 12" piece will break the wire before it pulls. It is not, in any way, "loose" in that tubing...Like the OP, I also have an Everlast welder. I use a Miller cooler with it and it has a clear tube to visually show flow. With the torch that came with the Everlast I see a soda-straw stream in that tube.When I got my CK torch I immediately noticed this flow was reduced to a mere trickle (despite the 65psi coming out of the cooler). I called CK and they told me it was perfectly normal and that as long as I had like 1ltr/min (or something like that) I was OK. I checked and it was actually higher than they said it could be. I knew why the flow was so reduced after I burnt it up and cut it open
Reply:Sounds to me like it might of got hot from bad coolant flow which would cause it to melt to the hose like that. Possibly even shrinking the diameter of the hose while it happened.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Pretty doubtful...Although, as I said, it Did get overheated but it's now been cut into a dz. ends and they All look the same.To add to that, the OD of the Old & New are identical and i don't see the silicone expanding Inwards Only and remain that way 9 months later.You did read my experience with finding a Tremendous restriction when changing to the SuperFlex???(You all seem to have experience with other kinds of power cable and yet want to assume you know about them all... )
Reply:Originally Posted by BaTuYou couldn't possibly do that on a SuperFlex cable, there simply is no "stretch" (I Really tried) and the crimp is 3/4" or more down from the barb...
Reply:Originally Posted by BaTuPretty doubtful...Although, as I said, it Did get overheated but it's now been cut into a dz. ends and they All look the same.To add to that, the OD of the Old & New are identical and i don't see the silicone expanding Inwards Only and remain that way 9 months later.You did read my experience with finding a Tremendous restriction when changing to the SuperFlex???(You all seem to have experience with other kinds of power cable and yet want to assume you know about them all... )
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverlol but the original poster isn't trying to fix a superflex cable, so aren't you kinda guilty of exactly what you're getting annoyed at everyone else for, only our info is directly relevant to what he's doing.
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitI admit that I've not tried to repair a superflex cable yet. I do use them though. One thing I did note when I got my new CK torch with superflex was that it turned my coolant very yellow colored quickly. I ended up using my water hose rig and running water through it for a good while till it turned clear.