Running metal pipe for air lines

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Well it's that time to step up with the tooling.  Just dropped some coins for a plasmacam. My air compressor currently with not handle the needs. I will be stepping up with the compressor. But I will be installing the compressor outside roughly 100' feet away but will be stored correctly. I have been reading up on plumping issues and will be using 3/4" pipe, which people seem to recommend for over 100'. My question is, this plumbing will be routed outside along the the bottom edge of the house following the contour.  I plan on installing  simliar to this: http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdfBut. the plumbing will drop down 4'  from the compressor then take a run for about 100' flatthen a ball drain valve before heading up to 4',then a air water seperator, regulatorthen a motor guard filter before connecting to the plasma cutter. The compressor will only be powering the plasma and that's it, as it will be installed seperate from my main shop. i hope I have explained it well and no drawings yet. Does this sound like a good and safe setup? I am located in So Cal. My main concern is that the plumbing will be outside and hopefully this does not change anything.Any input would be great, I;ll be drawing it out here shortly and getting materials ready for the build.
Reply:I would use 1" or then main and 3/4" for the drops, don't forget to put drip legs with dump valves in.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:3/4" pipe will handle 50 cfm or better... No need to go with 1".Are you planning on using copper or black steel pipe?  Being outside, I would really recommend using type L copper (not type M).I would put a tee where it goes back up, with one leg pointing down, and a foot or so of pope with a ball valve for a moisture drain, plus the moisture separator at the point of use.
Reply:Ahhh yes, the drip legs. 2 drip legs will be installed through the 100'' run. Black pipe will be used throughout the build. Drawings will be made up on Tuseday  and should be a fun build. And nice an quite in the shop.  Thanks for the tips n tricks.
Reply:depending on where in so cal your located might have a tendency to develop more moisture in the system than other locations.  It might not be a bad idea to check in to a refrigerated air cooling system to keep the moisture way down,especially on a plazma system, as well as insalling an auto drain right at the compressor to keepthe condensation from building at that point.  the last shop that I put together for a truck repair shop we ran 3/4 galvanized and had a drain right at the compressor as well.
Reply:I know I will catch hell over this but use PVC also that the distance the air will cool and the moisture will drop out long before it gets the 100'.  do put a drain near the compressor and a seperator before the plasma.  No rust with PVC save your money
Reply:PVC i wouldnt use, but poly water pipe i would.  Rated for high pressure and field tested to 1000+Kpa.
Reply:No pvc.  It's not rated for air, not is it rated for sunlight exposure.  The combination of the two will prove deadly in the long run.
Reply:PVC deteriorates quickly and makes a lot of shrapnal when it fails.
Reply:Water poly is also available in different grades for pressure.A rating a of PN 6.3 is rated for 630Kpa ( 90psi).  At the other end of the scale, PN 20 is rated for 2000Kpa ( 285psi ).Easy to bend.  No special tools required to fit up.  Cheaper to run large diameter.  Also can get copper to poly fittings if you want to make copper take offs.
Reply:Dry air is the ticket. Consumables last from twice as long to 5 times as long with dry air. Mac with my old Hyper-therm.
Reply:As for PVC, I cannot. The reason being, the whole back is concrete filled and this pipe will be exposed  running along the base of the house. Something that can easily be damaged.  I know how brittle PVC can get when exposed to the sun, then filled with pressure. Are some of you using galvanized piping? I steared away because I read reviews about the inside coating breaking away and clogging up valves and filters. I know it's cheaper than black pipe and that might be another route I am willing to take. I would love to install a refrigerator air drier, but my funds will be depleated by the end of next week, lol With the table, plasma, air compressor, oil/water seperators, motor guard filters,  lines and fittings. I'm tapped out.  Possibly within the year I can certainly do the upgrade. Thanks for the link mick, I;ll certainly get on board also the snap n cut is next on the list.
Reply:As I mentioned I put a system in a shop in Fontana with regular galvinized, it should last for many years without any problems.  I would keep an eye out on Ebay as well as other sources for a refrigerated system, it would be money well spent that will have far more paybacks in the long run.  I would even go so far to say that you could can the motor guard filters and install the refrigerated system you will benefit far more than the motor guard will do.  I have also found that of all places that harbor freight has them on the web, but not in the stores.  Trust me a aotu tank drain and the refer system will serve you well.
Reply:I made a compressed air cooler for one of my compressors using 3 8 foot sections of baseboard radiator core... the copper pipe with the aluminum fins on it.  It's mounted in a "Z" pattern , with the air feed in the top, and the outlet at the bottom.  I use a moisture separator at the outlet of the cooler.  It condenses and captures 80-90% of the moisture in the air.  It cost under 100 bucks to build, and it takes up very little space, as I have it mounted on the wall behind the compressor.
Reply:whats a snap n cut?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Stupid me, having a brain fart. I will be purchasing this unit used, only 1 hour use time on it. It is brand new with not a single scracth.  I called plasmacam earlier in the week and they answered all my questions so I told the seller I will come pick it up. Well, I'm leaving at 5am for a 300mile trip and I have 1 more question. How many times can the software be installed?grrrr
Reply:I skipped all of the other posts to your question and did so for a simple reason,,I have set up more air line systems for customers in my career than I care to remember,,,and number one,,you ARE correct,,stay away from PVC,,even without sunlight the stuff gets brittle,,take it from someone who has had customers insist on it because they "heard" it was okay,,well, it is, for about 4 to six months,,and then some numbnuts is gonna "whack" it or otherwise stress it and then, there you go, PVC shrapnel...and threaded connections with PVC,,SUX!. Now, if you're willing to listen to the voice of experience,,,,BLACK IRON PIPE if you're poor boyin' it. Inside rust is no problem unless you leave the system dormant for extended periods of time,,but, if you have the bucks, for the last 12 years my company has installed nothing but aluminum pipe coated with an acrylic/epoxy polymer. There are more than one places to find this material but we acquire most of our stuff from TransAir but have had Exair to be extremely helpful in finding other suppliers. Just my .02
Reply:I still say poly.  Im collecting the bits at the moment to do mine in poly.  50+ years service life.  Does not rust.  Does not heat up like metal ( good thermal properties ), Cheaper to run larger diameters, easy to splice into if you need another outlet, lightweight, Attached Images