anybody have 9X20 grizzly lathe

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I have managed to lose gears for mine. Its been busted for a while now, but today i fixed the feed on it with the new peices i got from grizzly. I for the life of me cant find my other gears to change feed speeds. Whats in it now is what i could find and it wont engage it just grinds like crazy i'm not sure why heres a pic i prolly have it put together wrong ???
Reply:Might give the guys at grizzly or LMS a holler.  There is an active Yahoo group that may also help you out quick and cheap.  Hope this helps, losing a piece always sucks.  Seems like you need that exact part next time you use the tool.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Remove all the gears except the top three and turn the spindle by hand.  Start re-installing the other gears one by one until you either get a problem or it frees up.  I think there's also a semi quick change gear box on that machine.  Make sure it's firmly in one of the detents or nothing will work.  Also make sure the saddle drive is not engaged while you're doing this.
Reply:I have one and am an active participant on the Yahoo 9x20 group. First, join the group and go to the files section.  Tons & tons of good info there.Second, from your pics, it appears that the "big" gear is not meshing correctly with the gear above it.  Loosen the square bolt holding the "big" gear and the socket screw near the bottom (holding the arm), & readjust for full contact.  If that fails, or if it just jumps away again, it could very well be the adjustment inside the apron.  There is a great section in the Yahoo group written by John Pitkin about adjusting that area.Hope that helps get you going again.Jerry in Anchoragehttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/
Reply:i did sign up over their that sight is so weird. i also posted about 2 days ago and it still hasnt been "approved" I messed with it again yesterday and it jumps outta gear HARD! about 10 seconds after i engage the feed.
Reply:Wow.  That is too bad.  they have a great and very knowledgeable bunch of members there.Anyway, I tried to locate the file I referred to, but was unsuccessful.  Here I how I would start looking.  Ensure the lathe is OFF.1.  Take the quick change lever out of gear, and also both the half nut lever and the power feed lever.  ( You shouldn't be able to engage both the power feed & threading lever at the same time.)2.  Attempt to rotate the lead screw by hand.  Doing it that way should allow the lead screw to turn pretty freely.  If it doesn't turn at all or is very hard to turn,  then something is binding in the bearings or gearbox.3.  If the lead screw turns freely, leave the quick change lever out of gear but engage the power feed lever.  Attempt to turn the lead screw by hand again.  If it turns somewhat freely and the carriage moves, then the problem most likely isn't in the apron.  If it turns very hard, or not at all, then the problem could be inside the apron.  These lathes are known for loose and poorly fitting components inside the apron.  This is why I hoped you could get the file by John.  It is very thorough in the explanation and repair of this area.I'll attempt to get the file & send it to you.  I can't guarantee the timeline, though.Jerry in Anchorage
Reply:Ok so i just went i tried turning the lead screw it woldnt budge with everything disengaged ( i even took the gears off) so i locked a pair of vise grips onto the smooth part by the gear box and it broke loose but it has a very bad tight spot in it. is the lead screw on bearings or bushings?
Reply:I'm about 98% sure they are bushings.  I'm sure the one on the tailstock end is.  Take it off (if you can) & repeat the rotating thing.  If it comes off & the lead screw is still tight or stiff, then go to the left end. There is a roll pin on the left end (by the gear box)  Try knocking it out (after you removed the tailstock end support/bushing).  The pin can be a bear to get out (don't remember if it is tapered).  After getting the pin out attempt to move the leadscrew to the right. It should come free without too terribly much force.  Then try the rotating thing again.  It will be pretty sloppy--that is normal.  If it is still stiff or tight, then the problem is definitely in the apron.  If it is free, then the gearbox is binding.BTW, do you have the Grizz manual?  It can be downloaded from Grizz for free.http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4000_m.pdfAlso, there is a rebuild manual that the Yahoo group created.  You can get a copy on my site.http://www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Man...d%20Manual.pdfLots of good stuff in it  -- I helped create it.Jerry in Anchorage.
Reply:Ok so i investigated the lead screw some more tonight it got bound up again i took the nut loose from the tail stock side of the lathe it was tight as hell! i backed it off and now it works fine? even took a video!
Reply:Glad you got it going.I strongly recommend you get the Rebuild Manual.  Lots of stuff in it to help fix things & keep it running well.Jerry in Anchorage
Reply:Well that didnt work lol soon as i put pressure on it, the SOB pops outta gear STILL!!!! im about ready to scrap this thing! no matter how tight i crank down on the bar in the gear box it slips and the gears disengage ever so slightly so they just grind when it pops out. i have no idea what is causing this. It seems like the speed selector is walking and catching the other gears and binding it up
Reply:I experienced the same problem as you. after taking the apron apart I discoverd I had the threading half nut engaged the whole time. The lead screw has enough torque to rotate the change gear support arm right where your picture showes the 28 tooth to the 127 tooth gears. I hope this helps you. P.S. If you decide to get rid of your lathe would you consider selling me the intire tailstock assembely?