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There was a thread started a few days ago about pulsed SMAW. I tried it for a couple of minutes soon after it was posted and found that it works. Today I spent about an hour experimenting. Firstly, understand that I am right handed and have a lot of nerve damage to my right arm. It spasms without warning, (tooth brush in the eye or forehead sort of things). So, as much as I'm loving learning a bit about welding, I'll never be a threat to ZAP, ZTFAB, DSW or any of the finely skilled welders here on WW. Other than the work on my RR anvil, I've posted no pictures because I can see most of what is wrong with my welds but don't seem to be able to do much to improve them. I just don't have enough steadiness to my right arm and forget about left handed welding for me.Secondly, I've never done a video before but decided to try video today. Bottom-line is I unhooked the TIG power lead to my Miller SyncroWave 350lx and hooked up a stinger to that connection. Set the unit on TIG and HF start and pulse at about 50% background, varied pulses from 3 to about 6 per second and kept about 60% time on the high cycle. Tried 6011, and 7018, both 3/32 and 1/8" electrodes. Weldment in all cases was approximately 11 gauge steel, 0.115" measured. Amps were 110 dcen (vertical up (7018 1/8") and 110 amp ac 7018 overhead and flat. The overhead was a disaster due to lack of arm control and awkward position as I burned through. But you can see the weld bead was good where I hadn't screwed up. Overall I was pretty happy with the results as heretofore, I've had a really tough time with vertical-up and overhead as can be seen on the opposite side of the pulsed vertical bead.As can be seen, the narrow beads almost have the appearance of TIG. I would think that in skilled hands this technique would be useful.A couple posts of pics and 2 videos follow. Please note that I dressed in my best wool shirt for this shoot. 30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Second video and more pics. Pic #2 shows my previous vertical-up effort today without pulse. Attached ImagesLast edited by storeman; 11-09-2014 at 10:49 PM.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Nice Jerry, glad to see you still plugging away.
Reply:Chris,Plugging might be an overstatement. But I'm still trying. Hope all is well with you.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:What do your welds look like without pulse??
Reply:I did a pulsed mod to my stick welder, gives me 120 pluses per second.Works real good on AC rods.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Never seen that done
Reply:While I've never tried using the pulse function of a TIG welding machine with SMAW I have found it useful to use the hf start function on occasion. I find it especially helpful when trying to reach up inside a narrow restricted area. I set the hf to start only and the current control to panel (vs. remote). Instead of the foot pedal (although that will also work) I use that two button on / off switch that's made for going on a TIG torch. I either tape it to the stinger or hold it in my other hand depending on the situation. One big advantage to it is while you're reaching down in to where you want to start up, getting in position and getting the hood down the rod is cold so you don't have to worry about making random arc strikes out side the weld zone or sticking the rod when you're in a position where you don't have the freedom to strike an arc like you would normally do.
Reply:I had the HF start on. Very little rod sticking. The only remote I have is the foot pedal, but I liked having a cold rod until I hit the pedal.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopWhat do your welds look like without pulse??
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanI had the HF start on. Very little rod sticking. The only remote I have is the foot pedal, but I liked having a cold rod until I hit the pedal.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopWhat do your welds look like without pulse??
Reply:Try the pulse with 6010/11...
Reply:I once tried square wave AC current with stick and I found that I could very easily use DC rods like 7018 and 6010. Miller has an online article about using a TIG power source for welding out of position. The problem is that the volt-amp curve for TIG is wrong for stick.
Reply:It's even hard for a highly skilled welder to weld 1/8" steel with a 1/8" 7018.....Even worse in the vertical position.
Reply:LOTECHMAN I once tried square wave AC current with stick and I found that I could very easily use DC rods like 7018 and 6010. Miller has an online article about using a TIG power source for welding out of position. The problem is that the volt-amp curve for TIG is wrong for stick.I don't pretend to understand the volt-amp curve. Seems to do a fine job. I'll try to find that article. If you have a link, please post it. Originally Posted by AKweldshopIt's even hard for a highly skilled welder to weld 1/8" steel with a 1/8" 7018.....Even worse in the vertical position.
Reply:Jerry, save your 1/8th 7018s for thicker material, get some 3/32 7018 for the 1/8th practice material. Its not an ideal welding scenario for practice or in practical use. If you are welding 1/8th material , chances are you wont need to use the strength of the code quality welds of a 7018. I use it on everything. But ill tell you what to use.This is what to do and get better results. You will have better luck with 3/32. You can weld 1/8th steel with 1/8th fast freeze rods like 6010 and 6011, also 6013, but you'll weld it down either sloped down hill or straight down with best results. In flat you will skate along because you will bend it up like a banana, burn through, and have a wide bead from going too slow.7018 and 7014 are better suited for higher deposition applications, so no matter what you do on thin stuff, its going to be hard, So set yourself up with a 3/32 and it should fill and weld ok, still might have to weld a little quick. If you welder has arc force that can come into play. If you want to weld with a bigger electrode on thin material, you can turn your amps down way past the lower limit and turn the arc force way up till it stops sticking. It will help you weld in all positions. Now although that's what I was taught in my last welding school, I rarely use that method. It welds slow and cold and you have to whip so fast to make that cold bead smooth. I now I keep the electrode in the recommended range and turn the arc force down, Amps and deposition come hand in hand, It welds like butter, smooth and your hand is not moving like an egg beater.Now as for the pulsed SMAW, Ive never tried it, and the welds do look better than not using it. My theory on it is that I think you might find that your trapping gas pockets and porosity and even slag in the weld because its pulsing so fast its not allowing itself to gas off and solidify at the rate its designed to. it should be welded hot allowed to cool down on its own. Its strong enough to weld sheet metal all day long, but you will weld better with the right rod. Just my $.02, wait cant do that no more (got rid of our pennys) its now at least a nickelLast edited by Doug247; 11-11-2014 at 01:05 PM.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:You need to learn to stick weld without pulse. It's not something you see regularly if you weld for a living. If you have to have pulse to make a smaw look good, your doing something wrong or you haven't learned the skills to stick weld.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by Plasma-HeadTry the pulse with 6010/11...
Reply:Originally Posted by Doug247Jerry, save your 1/8th 7018s for thicker material, get some 3/32 7018 for the 1/8th practice material. Its not an ideal welding scenario for practice or in practical use. If you are welding 1/8th material , chances are you wont need to use the strength of the code quality welds of a 7018. I use it on everything. But ill tell you what to use.This is what to do and get better results. You will have better luck with 3/32. You can weld 1/8th steel with 1/8th fast freeze rods like 6010 and 6011, also 6013, but you'll weld it down either sloped down hill or straight down with best results. In flat you will skate along because you will bend it up like a banana, burn through, and have a wide bead from going too slow.7018 and 7014 are better suited for higher deposition applications, so no matter what you do on thin stuff, its going to be hard, So set yourself up with a 3/32 and it should fill and weld ok, still might have to weld a little quick. If you welder has arc force that can come into play. If you want to weld with a bigger electrode on thin material, you can turn your amps down way past the lower limit and turn the arc force way up till it stops sticking. It will help you weld in all positions. Now although that's what I was taught in my last welding school, I rarely use that method. It welds slow and cold and you have to whip so fast to make that cold bead smooth. I now I keep the electrode in the recommended range and turn the arc force down, Amps and deposition come hand in hand, It welds like butter, smooth and your hand is not moving like an egg beater.Now as for the pulsed SMAW, Ive never tried it, and the welds do look better than not using it. My theory on it is that I think you might find that your trapping gas pockets and porosity and even slag in the weld because its pulsing so fast its not allowing itself to gas off and solidify at the rate its designed to. it should be welded hot allowed to cool down on its own. Its strong enough to weld sheet metal all day long, but you will weld better with the right rod. Just my $.02, wait cant do that no more (got rid of our pennys) its now at least a nickel
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeYou need to learn to stick weld without pulse. It's not something you see regularly if you weld for a living. If you have to have pulse to make a smaw look good, your doing something wrong or you haven't learned the skills to stick weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanBottom-line is I unhooked the TIG power lead to my Miller SyncroWave 350lx and hooked up a stinger to that connection. ...( snip) Amps were 110 dcen (vertical up (7018 1/8") and 110 amp ac 7018 overhead and flat. The overhead was a disaster due to lack of arm control and awkward position as I burned through. But you can see the weld bead was good where I hadn't screwed up.
Reply:Yes, I eventually realized I had it wrong. Have been doing either dcep or ac with 7018 since. Thanks. Odd that it worked fairly well tho. Made me feel like a "pro" for a few minutes. 30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Is there any reason why you can't weld with your left hand? I'm left handed myself but I can also weld with my right hand when I need to, even though I'm dominantly left handed. I forced myself to learn to use my right hand long ago and it has paid off for me more times than I can think of. It looks to me like you need someone to coach you a bit in stick welding. Sometimes you just need to see someone else do it. Your. beads need improvement.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Thanks Jason. I'll give it a try.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air PressI missed that info in your first post about your nerve damage in your arm. I wish I had the opportunity to help you around that. Whether its welding with both hands and loosening your grip, or just a way to position yourself to make it work Im sure something will click . Maybe the pulse makes it more predictable for you?Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Thanks Doug.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanLOTECHMAN I once tried square wave AC current with stick and I found that I could very easily use DC rods like 7018 and 6010. Miller has an online article about using a TIG power source for welding out of position. The problem is that the volt-amp curve for TIG is wrong for stick.I don't pretend to understand the volt-amp curve. Seems to do a fine job. I'll try to find that article. If you have a link, please post it.That makes me feel a bit better. Thanks. I have a lot of 1/8 material to make coupons from and figured I'd use it, so I'll plod on.
Reply:LotechThanks. Interesting article.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:15:48