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I work in a plastic fabrication shop and sometimes have to do some welding. I haven't gone to welding school or anything so I don't know much about it. Most of the time I weld mild steel with a Miller MIG welder and have no problems. But every now and then the customer orders the product with stainless steel metal and I have to weld using stick. The stick welder is a Lincoln electric and to change the voltage (amperage?) you turn a big dial on the front. It isn't digital or anything. The sticks I am using are ProStar ones and when the weld cools this black coating just pops off of the weld automatically.The stainless steel is 1/8" thick and main problem I have is the weld sometime doesnt stick to both pieces I am trying to weld. I drew a picture below to show what I mean. I hold the stick at the angle show in the picture. The results are very inconsistent. Part of the weld looks perfect, and then it will go to hell. The weld sometimes only stick to one side. I get very frustrated at work whenever I have to weld stainless.
Reply:i just had to stick some stainless on Wednesday! what a pain in the butt!i only had 3/32" rods and i had similar problems. heres what i found out.first off, those little rods were getting way over-amped and were pretty much garbage once burned half way. that was when the flux would get in the way of the puddle and i would have to stop! if i kept going, it would do like you are showing.so i turned down to try and be able to use more of the rod. at that point, going for the same weld size as before would allow the flux back into the puddle, giving same results, even without the rod overheated.so, i decided small, quick, multi-pass welds were the only way. i was running 3/32" 308l at about 80-85 amps and uphill, overhead, and flat. keep a nice, tight arc and make sure you clean all your slag between passes and stop/starts. you'll get it!bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:I would get some new rod.I did these welds a couple years ago with rod I stole off a job in the 1970s. Generally SMAW of stainless steel is pretty easy. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
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Reply:Like CEP said try some different rods. Also there is a very narrow sweet spot with a lot of the rods I have used. When you get it right the slag will pop on its own and you should have a rainbow color.
Reply:Ok I will get some new 308L-16 rods. Jeez, the guy in that video made it look so easy. Thanks for the help guys.
Reply:Wow, on one of his related videos "Stick Weld Trouble-Shooting" he replicates almost my exact problem. He calls them wormholes? Apparently the angle of the stick really matters in order for the arc to blow back the slag. Maybe my angle has been wrong...
Reply:It does run somewhat like 6013. Soon as you start to weld, you have to look close to tell the difference between slag, and metal. Then play with the rod angle to get the results you want. Yes rod angle will force the slag behind the puddle! Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I weld lots of stainless stick. For 3/32" rods don't exceed 70 amps,I usually run 62-66. For 1/8" rods typically I run 88-100 amps mostly around 95 amps. When done with your bead don't try and chip the slag just walk away and let it cool and it usually all pops right off. Keep a pretty tight arc length and with stainless you have to put the metal where you want it as it doesn't wet out and flow like carbon. Follow me? Once you get stainless it's easy to weld flat or out of position.
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75I weld lots of stainless stick. For 3/32" rods don't exceed 70 amps,I usually run 62-66. For 1/8" rods typically I run 88-100 amps mostly around 95 amps. When done with your bead don't try and chip the slag just walk away and let it cool and it usually all pops right off. Keep a pretty tight arc length and with stainless you have to put the metal where you want it as it doesn't wet out and flow like carbon. Follow me? Once you get stainless it's easy to weld flat or out of position.
Reply:We use them all. Everything but blue max by Lincoln. The best I've ever run were made by Filler Metals Ltd,not sure if they still make them or not.
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75We use them all. Everything but blue max by Lincoln. The best I've ever run were made by Filler Metals Ltd,not sure if they still make them or not.
Reply:Problems with the rods
Reply:Not an expert but if you have a mig welder, why not buy a roll of stainless steel wire?Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by ostie01Not an expert but if you have a mig welder, why not buy a roll of stainless steel wire?Jeff
Reply:Need tri-mix to weld stainless, and unless he has the availability to keep a second tank on hand, its probably not an option.
Reply:If possible, position your project so it is slanted about 10 degrees uphill instead of flat. Helps keep ahead of slag. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:15:02