Cutting Table Design Critique

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There are a few things I've been wanting in my small garage shop for a while:New bandsaw standO/A and plasma cutting tableReplacing the 2-shelf, 2x3ft HF cart currently being used for stock storageManaging dust from the chop sawI started by thinking about the bandsaw stand, but the issue with the bandsaw is that it's quite narrow and unbalanced, so coming up with a stand with a minimal footprint while still being stable was tough. So then I started thinking...maybe I can merge a couple things into one stand? And so I think I may have come up with a design that solves all of them in a single 3x3ft cart -- about the current footprint of the bandsaw and HF cart -- but I'd like to get some opinions about it first before I start buying/cutting/welding in case I haven't thought of something or somebody has some alternative ideas.Let's start with "bandsaw mode". In this mode, there's a sheet covering the plasma grates so that the surface can be used as an in-feed for the bandsaw:Then to use the plasma table, the sheet is lifted into a raised position (or just set aside, since it would just use a slide-in type mount that I haven't nailed the details on yet):Then to use the chop saw, the middle section of grate can be lifted out and replaced with the chop saw, making it flush with the remaining grate:Note that the grate would be welded up into three sections, each of which could be flipped over once it starts wearing out. The square tubing would be 1.5" 14ga, the grate would be 2"x1/8" flat, and the dross bin and backstop/cover would be 16ga (or could I get away with thinner?). The dross bin is currently 12" deep measured from the top of the grate -- is that deep enough and/or could it be less deep? My experience with plasma and o/a cutting is very minimal, but I think in general it would see pretty light use and would likely never be used for cutting anything larger than 1/2" thick (most probably being 1/8 or 1/4").As I mentioned, the whole table would be a 3x3ft footprint, and I'd end up putting in on 4 swivel locking castors to be able to move it around easily. It would also be the same height as my welding table so that they could be placed side-by-side for an extended in- or out-feed. I'd also be adding shelves to the cart for storing the chop saw and materials (to replace the HF cart), and I'd add some sort of tray beneath the bandsaw to catch filings, too. The dross bin would just be cleaned out with a hinged door and a brush/broom. These details are less important so I haven't bothered sketching them out yet.Also, I did NOT design the chop saw or bandsaw models. Those were borrowed from the public 3D Warehouse.Bandsaw (by jdav7):  https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/mod...870dbe3e18be41Chop saw (by brad s): https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/mod...5fe6580bfeb2beDon't worry about hurting my feelings, all critique is welcome!Thanks,Ian
Reply:You might want to consider a small fold-down outfeed table or rollers for the bandsaw considering all the elements that you're planning. Creating a funnel type bottom for the plasma table that allows the dross to flow into a metal bucket of some sort would make cleanup much easier. The fine airborne dross from both plasma and chopsaw cutting will get into the bearings and bushings of the bandsaw potentially causing premature wear and introducing inacuracies into your cuts and shortening the life of bushings and bearings, regardless of the protection provided by the sheet. I can see placement of the chop saw being an issue as the grates of the plasma table get deformed from cutting, your surface will be much less level as infeed and outfeed table and a much bigger PIA to remove and replace entire section of grate, depending whether it's one section welded together or seapated for individual swap out as they get cut to chit. I can see the advantage of having these dirty processes together on the same table. Maybe consider putting the chopsaw at the end of the table attached to a fold down shelf that's out of the way when plasma cutting, I don't think that you'll enjoy all that removing and replacing sections of that dirty and potentially dangerous sections of plasma grate. I think that the saw in the center of the table is a bit awkward, lifting up and down and also introducing storage issues. One last suggestion is to create a base for the bandsaw that allows it to swivel to make your angled cuts easier to set up. That looks like it's going to be at least a couple of hundred pounds and may be a little awkward to move around, make sure that you have good (steel) wheels on it that can handle the load. I think you're off to a good start, with a bit of tweaking you'll have a solid cutting station. Cheers!  Last edited by bearston; 12-30-2014 at 11:18 AM.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:I prefer the band saw to be on a separate stand. Mine is a HF 4x6 and the stand is about the same dimensions as the saw . The wider wheel bases makes the difference.As for the chop saw, check this out from a member. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...=chop+saw+trapI made one for a friend and it does work well. I made it with 16 gauge sheet metal.
Reply:Fair enough...sounds like trying to put everything on one table may not be the best solution. I was kinda thinking that might be the case but I got caught up in the all-in-one design.BD1, do you have a thread/pictures of your bandsaw stand?That dust trap for the chop saw looks really good, too. I admit that I don't actually use the chopsaw much -- preferring to use the bandsaw whenever possible -- so I could always move it into an area of the shop that is more "dust friendly" when I want to make some cuts. Or outside.I'm still really wanting to make a plasma table though, and I'm still not really sure the best way to go about doing that. I don't think it needs THAT much surface area, maybe a couple square feet. Perhaps I could make a small one that slides into receivers on the end of the welding table?Thanks guys!
Reply:Attachment 953821My stand is not fancy but works well. It's a piece of 10" channel for top and 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle. All left over parts. The channel has a cut out below saw for filings to drop down. The old steel tub works well for the scrap and catches filings. Solid wheels one end and swivel casters on other. I kept it narrow to take up less room. I was going to have the bottom wider for stability , tack it up straight, and was fine. It's 30" tall to top of channel. I don't like bending down. The material support is one part of a 3/4 pony pipe clamp that I bought for a $1.00 at garage sale. It has  "V" on top and I have a piece of 4" channel that sits on top . There's a couple of ears welded to it to keep it on.
Reply:Work support is a good idea BD1.  I may copy that.  Thanks. 30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Here's my version of the saw stand with a couple of similarities to BD1's design. I had 1 1/2" tube kicking around so I decided to make a slim design so that I can get right in there when using it as a vertical bandsaw, I too, hate bending over to set up cuts, puts my back out, so I set it up to have the base of the saw @ 32" and the base in vertical @ 41" so I stand upright while cutting. The Alu debris catch tray at the bottom is supposed to sit right under the top rail, sliding in and out on a couple of pieces of angle which I didn't have at build time, so it's the last thing to do to finish. I put the shelf 1/2 way up because of laziness, but I may move it down to accomodate a bucket like BD1, I haven't run into any issues where it is, however. I made the base 15" wide, 18" to outside of wheels, it's very stable and I use an adjustable roller stand bought on sale ($7) for support. One thing to point out is that you should make sure that your stand extends out beyond the motor to support it when in vertical cutting mode, otherwise you'll find it flipping back onto the motor. Here are a couple of photos. Last photo is supposed to hilight mounting method. I love BD1's adjustable stand, I have some 1/2 dead pipe clamps that I'll turn into that design.Last edited by bearston; 12-30-2014 at 02:33 PM.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:I like number 2, #3 is good Idea but crap will bounce back at youSent from my iPhone using TapatalkLONGEVITY 250EX w/ 25' weldcraft cs310 torchTorchmate w/ Hypertherm powermax 85   withFLASHCUT CNC PRO SERIES CONTROLS
Reply:I use a chop saw on my cutting bench with sheetrock shield held in slots like shown in your cad pic. It contains sparks and the mess. The bandsaw does make a slight mess but no fire danger so +1 on the separate bandsaw stand. Also, if you use the Harber fart type saw: the stands like BD1 and bearston showed are needed because the the stock stand will tip. Mine has and its pita to realign the blade.